My timing is "right" but still effed up

[charlotte240]

I set the timing on my s13 blacktop according to the FSM. Before I did that, the car ran great and pulled strong. I checked the timing per the FSM and I was WAAYY advanced (probably about 40 BTC). I did what anybody would do and set it to the proper 15 BTC. Now the car runs like POO POO!! It's fine when idling, except at first it was idling way off so I set it to 850rpm. Now, when I start to boost, it completely looses all power and then makes this horrible noise like a honda that just ate some beans. Also, when it makes this farting noise (very loudly mind you), my boost spilkes up to about 10psi (no boost controller). It sounds like the exhaust is burning in the turbo and in the downpipe. This is all very indicitive of retarded timing. So what I'm going to do is set it back to the "40 deg btc" and run with it. If somebody thinks I'm being stupid, let me know because I'm out of ideas. Also, now that I'm on the topic, how reliable is the knock sensor and does it help?

[Altiman94]

I would suspect your timing gun to be inaccurate

[TruboostPerformance]

well if you pulled the valve cover and the CAS out, you may have set it at TDC on the wrong stroke, the CAS is prob 180deg off, I would suggest doulbe cheking and triple, timing is a little tricky on SR's if you have not dont it a lot.

[SRdave240]

I had the exact same problem. ran great at 40deg btdc.

You are readig the timing incorrectly. Make sure you follow the FSM EXACTLY. including the 2 minute rev above 2k rps and "racing" the motor 2-3 times.

You must do all these tings to put it in "timing mode"

If all else fails, put it back to 40deg btdc. I KNOW that it is really about 15deg.

[GTS4-R]

my car seems to be sluggish when i have the timing set to 16 degrees (doin it the way the FSM says)....seems to run hot also....but the other day i set it to 16 degress but the motor was idling at 2000RPM.....come to find out it was WAY advanced...prolly 35-40 degs....yet it pulled hard as a motherf'r...whats goin on....Ive tried it with several different timing lights....could it be the CAS 180 degs off? could the timing light be uinaccurate?.....how would i know for sure about the cas being on point?

[charlotte240]

Well, it doesn't matter if the CAS is a little off or not because the light comes on when cyl 1 fires and I'm judging that with the crank tick marks. This is a brand new timing light (that doesn't say much though) but it's pretty hard to make a passive electronic light innacurate.

I'm thinking that I didn't get the engine into "timing mode." I thought I followed the instructions to the letter though. I mean, I printed those pages out and followed them step by step.

Just to make sure, there's no difference between setting it on a s13 and s14 engine, right? My FSM is for the s14.

[GTS4-R]

thast what i was just gonna mention....i noticed a difference in the CAS markings from mine and the one in the s14 FSM\check out my new topic..... CAS markings (s14 fsm right?)

[quicknismo]

My timing gun was reading 40deg advanced when taking the feed on the loop wire in behind the valve cover. When I switch the feed on a homemade ignition wire from the coil pack to the spark plug the timing was dead on at 15deg advanced. Try that to see if the two readings are the same...

[SpeedRacer1]

Do note that SR's have electronic ignition which uses a different 'special' timing light. seeing as how like 95% of cars are distributor driven, I am assuming none of you were using the proper timing light.

[Luke]

Do note that SR's have electronic ignition which uses a different 'special' timing light. seeing as how like 95% of cars are distributor driven, I am assuming none of you were using the proper timing light.

In what way is it "special"? I'm sure a lot of us would like to know...

[180fan]

dunno guessing a pulse to tell the coilpack to spark? I've heard about this problem too, that some timing lights will read the timing improperly and read it as 40BTDC instead of 15. I've never had a problem with my timing light, it's got an inductive pickup and the best one my local Kragens had. Cost a bit but figured it was a worthy investment.

[SpeedRacer1]

You either use a timing checking system that can check for a multitude of problems with electronic timing called a digital timing meter, or you can use an even more complicated ignition module tester. Some timing lights appear to be able to pick up the proper signals, but whenever you use a timing light you run the risk of getting the wrong timing (because they are designed for distributors). Honostly its not too hard to do timing without the light.

[johnyQ]

Not to hijack, but I have have a similar symptoms as you and have been chasing the cause for a little while.

you describe it as:"Now, when I start to boost, it completely looses all power and then makes this horrible noise like a honda that just ate some beans. Also, when it makes this farting noise (very loudly mind you), my boost spilkes up to about 10psi (no boost controller). It sounds like the exhaust is burning in the turbo and in the downpipe. This is all very indicitive of retarded timing. "

This is very similar to what happens to me. I have power on very light throttle, but when I give it a lot of throttle,the car builds boost and makes a hell of a lot of noise, but its as if I have no power at all. However this only occurs after driving around for a while (hot engine).

I have attributed it to cooling issues for the most part, but the stock temperature needle has never moved at all. So before I go replacing my water pump, pulleys, headgasket, etc, could you help me understand why you say its a symptom of retarded timing (and would it be applicable in my case since it does not occur right away).

I was told the car just went in a for a full tune right before I bought it (in fact I have the receipt so I know he wasn't lying) but I guess that doesn't mean they didn't do it wrong.

[SpeedRacer1]

Run the ECU for codes, if you have a sensor failure, it would show up right away. The problem you described would never be cured by a new waterpump and changing pulleys.

[firekirin]

ok guys now i say this because i did the same thing..... speed racer is absolutely right check the ecu before you guys go and start changing parts and **** ..... i had the same problem.... i was blowing smoke on day and so i got scared and i figured i would check all my setting and stuff so i checked the timing and it was way advanced the same as what you guess say and so i figured well ****.. so i set it back and then i set the tps to the factory settings and it still ran like **** so i was stump until a friend of mine gave me the advance to check the damn ecu i know that obd 0 is primative but it will tell u exactly what is wrong with your car. well after me ****ing with **** come to find out it is my ****ing knock sensor which after thinking of it would cause all of the problems.. once your knock sensor goes bad the ecu takes over and retards you timing so you run rich and you wont hurt your engine... and the reason for the timing to be so advanced is also because of the knock sensor, mafs and o2 sensor these three work together to keep your car running the way it needs to be ran if one go bad then your ecu will make your car run rich so my advance again is to check the ecu the code for the knock sensor is 34 and if it is that you can buy one from a 95 240sx the exact same sensor after i replaced mine i was able to boost and im loving it now he he