my sr died.......need some good advice

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Miss 180
Posts: 55
Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 6:23 pm
Car: 1993 hatchback Nissan 240sx sr20det

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So.....i was having slipping in the clutch....so i thought. I went through the stock clutch, a brand new cluch, then a known good used one......

So after all that and it still slipped i was at a loss. Then I was on my way home from work and the motor started knocking then all of a sudden boom.....everything exploded out of my oil pan and holes all in the bottom of the block.

So i need your guys advice. I am a week out of my warranty so they refused to replace the motor. Should i take a chance and buy a short block and just try to fix it, and possibly build it while its down, or should i not chance the motors strength anymore and just try to save for a new motor?????It was my only car so now im with out so i have to decide what to do soon. and my cash flow isnt too good after all the clutches i went through. HELP!


duffman1278
Posts: 6816
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

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Your head shouldn't be bad so I would go with getting a short block and save yourself some money on the whole engine.

But since this is your only car I would really look into having the company that sold you the motor to get you another one or do something unless you were beating on the motor or something of that matter.

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snake240
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:16 pm
Car: 92 hatch SR20DET

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well if you actually have holes in the block and its not the freeze plugs then its time for a new block. sorry

if you find a running used block to get then you would be set. doing a rebuild is gonna have to be decided based on the engines condition. but its best to atleast do a new gasket set on most parts.

look into the throwout bearing for the clutch issue. have you been replacing it as well.

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Miss 180
Posts: 55
Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 6:23 pm
Car: 1993 hatchback Nissan 240sx sr20det

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thats kinda what i was thinking too. i think the head should still be good. Ive only driven it for 2 weeks max. all the rest of the time it was being worked on and down.

ive been round and round with the company i bout the motor from. they will not replace it or work any deals with it for me. the did offer me a black top for 1200 dollars but i dont think i wana chance buying another crap motor from them.

and yes i did replace the throw out bearing during the clutch changes.

cody180sx
Posts: 303
Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 2:54 pm
Car: s14 rb25det fully built 550whp coming soon

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what company did you buy the motor from 1200 bucks is a good deal ether way just pull it apart and replace small things oil pump oil pickup etc

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boro drift
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Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:26 pm
Car: '87 Supra, '92 240 with SR20 and '98 12 valve Cummins

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I would have the company do a leak down test and a compression test on the black top they have. If it checks out fine, I would go that rout. It would be the quickest way to get your car back on the road.

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schanne
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:39 pm
Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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How can you have the company's check for compression and do a leak down when it's just a long block? I'm in the same boat as you miss 180 with my motor. I found a redtop long block from jdm of miami for 700. Blktop is 800... I have purchased parts from them in the past with no problems at all. But motors seem to be a different story!

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snake240
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Car: 92 hatch SR20DET

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its still a complete engine basically. you can turn the crank by hand to check compression, and a leak down is just filling cylinders with air and measuring the % of the leak.

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boro drift
Posts: 2316
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:26 pm
Car: '87 Supra, '92 240 with SR20 and '98 12 valve Cummins

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snake240 wrote:its still a complete engine basically. you can turn the crank by hand to check compression, and a leak down is just filling cylinders with air and measuring the % of the leak.
^ And don't accept any engine with a leak down of more than 12% in any cylinder.

Also, don't accept any engine with less than 145psi of cylinder pressure in any cylinder.


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Miss 180
Posts: 55
Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 6:23 pm
Car: 1993 hatchback Nissan 240sx sr20det

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schanne wrote:How can you have the company's check for compression and do a leak down when it's just a long block? I'm in the same boat as you miss 180 with my motor. I found a redtop long block from jdm of miami for 700. Blktop is 800... I have purchased parts from them in the past with no problems at all. But motors seem to be a different story!
yea i talked to those guys too. they have 2 low compression long blocks they are trying to see. 800 for both. i thought maybe buy them just for parts. idk what to do. i need to pull my head off and make sure everything in there still looks ok. if so would the 2 motors be a bad idea? what u guys think?

this is a noob question. when i pull the head off what exactly am i looking for? like metal or broken parts or what not......?

duffman1278
Posts: 6816
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

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If you heard knocking then your problems going to be in bearings where the connecting rods meet the crankshaft. When you tear apart the block you'll see markings on the bearings that'll look like scrape marks.

More than likely your head is still in good condition. By what you described the issues seem to be with bottom end.

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snake240
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Car: 92 hatch SR20DET

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If your hurtin on money buying two blocks may end up hurtin you. It sounds like you need to find a good mechanic to really inspect your block. you may just be able to do a rebuild on yours. if yours is toast then have him or her inspect the used long blocks and possibly rebuild it.


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boro drift
Posts: 2316
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:26 pm
Car: '87 Supra, '92 240 with SR20 and '98 12 valve Cummins

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Miss 180 wrote:yea i talked to those guys too. they have 2 low compression long blocks they are trying to see. 800 for both.
Do you mean two wore out long blocks or two turbo long blocks?
Miss 180 wrote:this is a noob question. when i pull the head off what exactly am i looking for? like metal or broken parts or what not......?
Look for bent valves, and dents or gouges in the combustion chambers, (in case a piston exploded,or a connecting rod came apart, but I doubt it). On the block, look for anything out of the ordinary. Like a piston rocked at an angle, or a piston that has rotated in the bore.


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