Thoughtful_One wrote:No, AIV and IACV are two completely different things. IACV is idle air control valve, and only handkes off-throttle idle. AIV is a system used to inject oxygen into in the exhaust stream, most lkely to heat the catalytic converter up more. If oyu look at OEM Silvia's or 180SX's, there si a small device that goes from the filter to the box, then to the turbo elbow. That's also why most peolpe block off the little bung on the OEM turbo elbow. They don't have the AIV anymore...

Too many acronymns for me... It's clear that he's not running a pulsed air injection reaction valve. I know what a iac valve is. If you're not off the throttle it wouldn't be idle. A pair valve's purpose is emissions and controlling exhaust pop not heating the catalytic converter, that would definitely be a negative thing.

Positron, Since you have two open bungs on the elbow this would be the ideal place to put the vent line versus before the maf.

These are not PCV evacuation lines... They are crankcase ventilation lines which inject fresh air into the system. You do not want excessive vacuum on these lines, and connecting them before the compressor inlet won't create vacuum in them.

The role of evacuating blowby and crankcase gasses is the job of the PCV valve which is hooked up to the intake manifold. Blowby will exit the vent under enough boost to overcome crankcase pressure thus closing the pcv valve, the purpose of the catch can.
Modified by enterpricorp at 3:47 PM 1/4/2009

I didn't know that about the AIV.

If the lines are connected to the tubo's inlet, air and blowby WILL be dragged out from the VC. How is it putting air INTO the system?

Even with a naturally aspiated car, there will always be a very slight vacuum near the filter formt he air being sucked in. With a turbo-charger, this is much more present, and is used to pull gases from the engine.

There's a difference between vacuum and suction, the inlet side of the compressor is open to atmosphere turbo or not. Simple physics... Like I said before the T is the crankcase breather and the PCV valve is connected to the intake manifold. The only time vapor will come out of this line is when boost is high enough to bring positive manifold pressure high enough to close the pcv valve.

Thoughtful_One wrote:I agree, the catch can you be mounted vertically. The way you have it set up, vapors will come in, condense, and then travel straight into your MAF! DO NOT keep running the setup you have.

If I recall correctly, the OEM S13 SR intake tube has a provision for this.

On your engine, I believe the T that goes towards the back of the car goes to the oil seperator, then back into the block. On the front of the T, have it go from the T to the catch can, then to the rubber intake turbe AFTER the MAF, never before...

So I should mount it vertically...I'll find a way. If I remove the rubber hose from the Apexi Intake, cap the Apexi intake port off, then take the rubber hose and move it to the rubber OEM intake that I have capped off in the pic...that would be the setup you guys are talking about correct?

Yes, the catch can should be mounted vertically so any accumulated liquids stay at the bottom of the can - your sight tube will allow you to see the capacity.

Seems the nipple on the maf adapter/suction kit was intended for the pair valve setup. You should connect the breather hose to the inlet elbow.

first off, MAD props for the thorough install write up. I've been following it for a few months now while I've been working on mine.

I thought I'd pick your brain for a few questions I have.

1. Driveshaft. Can't get mine into the tranny more than 1-1.5 inches. Not sure whats up, but I was hoping to hear about the approach you took.

2. For the life of me, I cannot find the torque specs for the starter motor. I have it held in finger tight right now, but That's not going to fly when it comes time to crank it. Do you remember what you torqued yours to?

Gracias! and sick looking car btw!

On the driveshaft I dropped it under, got under there and started to slide it in but it wouldn't go all the way. Turns out one section was catching on the new dust collar that I had on the tranny. I guess on side of the dust collar got a little bent while we were dropping the engine in. All I did was get some pliers and bend it out and the driveshaft slid in all the way. Check to make sure your driveshaft is not making contact with the dust collar, this could be your problem.

The starter bolts are to be torqued to 51-59ft.lbs. Thanks and good luck!

Hey, I was looking at ur pics and first off I wanted to say this is awesome, if only u did it for an RB25DET. But thats beside the point. I was wondering where u ordered all your nismo bolts, gaskets, seals, etc. for your motor. After reading this I think this would be the smart thing to do on mine also. If you can get part to me I'd appreciate it.Thanks,Joe

I got the gaskets and seals from a couple of different places like Courtesy Nissan, Performance Nissan, Askme4parts on Ebay, West Covina, Phase2Motorsports and FRSport. Which ones do you need part numbers for? Thanks for the comments!

Well, after many attempts I got the DiF fan controller to control the fans the way it was meant to, thus stopping me from using the manual control switch to run both fans all the time and burning up the fan motors. Let me tell you what Nissan did with the wire colors on this setup. When I first fixed the grounds and got the fans to respond to the manual switch I was happy but I really wanted this fan controller to do what it was promised to do so over the past four or five weeks I've been trying to figure out what the problem was. I pulled the fan wiring six or seven times examining the connections and redoing the wiring and got no results, the fans never worked without the manual switch. Well it turns out the colors of the wiring on the coolant temp harness that I have are different from the colors on the one shown on FRSports install.This is how the wires are on the SR20DET harness on FRSports DiF fan install. They clearly show the three wires to be blue w/ orange, blue w/ black, and black. The harnesses must be from different year models or something because the colors on my coolant temp harness are as follows...Red, white and black. I naturally assumed that the red would be positive, the black negative and the white being the wire that goes to the temp gauge sender for the console....BOY WAS I WRONG!!!! I was at my wits end trying to figure this out so the other night as I was looking at some old pics of my harness I decided to pull the fan harness and remove some covering on the coolant temp plug and see which of these three wires went to it and it turned out to be the white and black wires going to the coolant temp sensor while the red wire branched off to the coolant temp gauge sender. So I pulled the tap that I had on the red wire which I thought was positive and put that on the white wire which seemed to be positive...nothing. I was at a loss, the next step to fix this problem was to buy a multimeter, something which I should have done a long time ago but I got a tip from a forum member on 240SXforums(beyondstock is his name) that the wires were reversed and it turned out to be true. FOR ANYONE THAT HAS THIS PROBLEM AND THE SAME COLOR HARNESS AS ME THE WIRES ARE AS FOLLOWS...RED-TO GAUGE SENSOR UNIT GOING TO THE CONSOLE IN THE CABINWHITE-NEGATIVE GOING TO THE COOLANT TEMP SENSORBLACK-POSITIVE GOING TO THE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR.

It's cold today but I just went outside, set both fans to 150 degrees, started the car, let it get warmed up and both fans came on under control of the DiF fan controller and when I turned the car off both fans ran for a short time like the instructions say...so problem, "long sigh" solved!!!!

Glad to hear u got it all sorted out.!!! congrats.!!!!!!

Hey Positron I have a question or two...When you torqued your water inlet line into the turbo did the peice you put in first go all the way in? Im working on mine now and it is torqued, but not all the way in the hole.And How tight did you tighten the lines to their counterparts threaded into the turbo?

Sorry for the jack w/ the pic and all

posi do you still have the stock coilpack cover?

my sr did not come with it... :[

if you do is it for sale?

DriftBoy07 wrote:Hey Positron I have a question or two...When you torqued your water inlet line into the turbo did the peice you put in first go all the way in? Im working on mine now and it is torqued, but not all the way in the hole.

And How tight did you tighten the lines to their counterparts threaded into the turbo?

Sorry for the jack w/ the pic and all

Mine wasn't all the way in, almost but not all the way. For the torque specs, I just used the torque specs for the stock lines.Water tube:14-23ft.lbs.Oil tube:14-23ft.lbs.page EM-11 on the S14 FSM

s13gebala wrote:posi do you still have the stock coilpack cover?my sr did not come with it...

if you do is it for sale?

Sorry man, I already sold it.

Thanks How are you enjoying your car lately?

I'm glad it's running great but until I get new tires and a alignment, I can't really enjoy driving it. Soon though!

I see, well keep us in the loop

Any updates?Did you prep the block before painting it?

this build thread dominates

nevertheless wrote:Any updates?Did you prep the block before painting it?

I got some new stuff on the engine, I'll post some pics this weekend or so. As far as prepping the block, I just cleaned it really really good...got into every nook and cranny with all different size brushes and rags. Laid down three coats of cast iron and it's held up perfectly, absolutely no flaking or chipping. I heard there might be a bad smell when the heat starts to hit that paint but I couldn't smell anything.

Kalypso wrote:this build thread dominates

Thanks man!

great build! inspires me now to start smtn similar!

p.s mind if i ask? how much money did u put into all this?

ok no joke, this is a great post, very good job man, love the perfectionest builds, your doing extremely well man if this dosnt get made sticky it will be a shame, eather way i have this one book marked since i'll be having to do the same when i pick up the motor around march (tax returns )

jpnissans13 wrote:great build! inspires me now to start smtn similar!

p.s mind if i ask? how much money did u put into all this?

Don't know how much, scared to add it up! I'm satisfied with the way it turned out so it was worth it in the end and the process of putting it together was so fun and educational!

This is a very thorough build the way it should be done .Very clean and organized .

hey posi, question about your catch can set up relating to what i'm gonna do. i don't have a tap behind my filter its straight all the way to the turbo. where else could i go?

You want to know where else you can put the other line coming off the catchcan to other than the spot on the MAF near the filter like I have it correct?

yeah i wasn't sure is there's another way, since i don't have that option.

Well some of the engine pics that I have with catchcans on their SR's and only the line coming in from the valvecover, they have a breather on the other port of the catchcan.

cool i'm gonna give that a shot. thx

Hey,Just wanted to say THANK YOU for your write ups!Very helpful and got me through my swap. THANKS!