Nice, looks good. Clears the steering rod even more than w/ the stock elbowsupersayianjim wrote:well i got it on the car(needs a little modification) started with this..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...NX:IT
and after banging it for a while( the wastegate pipe was in the way).then took it to my good friend at nissan(the first time it didnt turn out right. 2nd time looked better.
http://i495.photobucket.com/al...3.jpg
http://i495.photobucket.com/al...2.jpg
http://i495.photobucket.com/al...1.jpg
the o2 sensor pits perfectlyhttp://i495.photobucket.com/al...4.jpg
http://i495.photobucket.com/al...5.jpg
and finally in the car. there is proper clearance to the downpipe even though it is shorter than stock
http://i495.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
http://i495.photobucket.com/al...7.jpg
there is a very noticable difference between this and the stocker. the turbo does spool up faster. i know you want to get it started(so do i) but this is
doable with the engine in the car. and you will be satisfied...
Okay, so i talked to a local rb20 owner here from northwestnissans.com. And he said its probably my ecu. I turned my car on to look at the ecu lights when i noticed that only the red light is on. I remember on my previous swaps that the red and green should be on. So it could be a bad ecu. Luckily he has a spare that he can sell to me if thats the issue. It has to be... seriously... please be it... lolHIGHFIV5 wrote:Imma email you a wiring guide i made.I have no idea if its correct yet as i havent tested it but i took my sweet a** time looking and comparingthe guides and then tracing wires back to the pins to verify what they were.Its just for the upper harness so far but maybe you can compare what yougot and maybe add a thing to my guide even or maybe something willbe different. Its gonna be a wiring guide for dummies pre much to make it aseasy to follow as possible. Hope it helps!
Hey yea, i double checked everything. It all matches up perfectly... And i did more research on my ecu. Some came with one red light so its normal. I did a diagnostic test and it came out 55. So everything is good to the ecu...HIGHFIV5 wrote:Ahhh. I emailed yeh that guide btw.Perhaps your ECU isnt getting grounded properlyor not getting power through the proper wires?Its possible.Hope a new ECU helps!Itd be alot easier than finding a wiring issue!
does the engine turn over? do you have the green relays plugged in?CA18Magic wrote:
Hey yea, i double checked everything. It all matches up perfectly... And i did more research on my ecu. Some came with one red light so its normal. I did a diagnostic test and it came out 55. So everything is good to the ecu...
Weird thing is i took out one of the plugs and didnt smell any fuel. WTF, i know i hooked up the fuel pump correctly. I can just look at my pics lol
Yup relays are plugged in. Even switched them with my sisters fuse box haha. Engine turns over but thats it. Did some investigating starting w/ fuel first. Pulled a plug out and didnt smell and fuel after a bit of cranking. Tried to listen for the fuel pump to prime. But didnt hear anything. So i pulled it out to check it. At first there was hesitation when i hooked it up to a battery. So i re did the connections and this time soldered it and shrink wrapped it. Now i know the fuel pump is good, pulled the fuel line at the motor to have fuel spew out everywhere. So good sign that its working for sure. I was double checking to make sure i had my fuel lines hooked up right. And from write ups for fpr installs it look'd fine. I then traced the hard fuel line to the rail... and look what i found... Looks like the line was pinched some how probably during shipping.bloodspread wrote:does the engine turn over? do you have the green relays plugged in?
Hey thanks man. I'll continue to post onto this thread even through paint process haha. Thats the fun part. Getting on the right track to getting it running.. man, whole other story.Chris28 wrote:Well at least you know what it is, though that kinda sucks. I'm sure you can fix it, probably don't have to buy a new rail. Take it somewhere and see if they can braze a new line on, or just cut it right before the kink and after the 90 degree bend and put some rubber fuel hose on there. If there is enough hard line before the kink you'll be able to get hose and a clamp on there no problem.
Good luck with the rest of it, car looks so sick. I'm throughly impressed.
lol, yea ME TOO!!! I've even though about cutting it flush... then tapping it with a 1/8 npt barb fitting like this And just just attach the fuel line directly to it!Chris28 wrote:Yeah man, I'd be surprised if you got it to fire at all with that kink. What material is the fuel rail? If you can weld to it (probable) then just cut it off flush with the rail itself, cut about 1/2" off the good straight part of the feed hard line, and weld that onto the rail where you cut off the kinked portion. All you'd have to do at that point is get a 1/2" longer section of hose to cover the part of hard line you cut out.
You've probably thought of that, but I want to see this thing run haha.
I'm gonna try. There's a domestic tuner shop local to here. But unlike all the import race shops around here... these guys actually have stuff in stock. A lot of fittings, nitrous stuff etc etc. So i'll stop there tomorrow.Chris28 wrote:Do it! Can you find that part locally? I hate waiting on the little things.
If you have time, take a pic of how you have yours set up? I have the lower line going into the fuel filter... and the hose from there going to the fuel line that brings it to where the kink is... and the return hose is connected to the line closest to the oem fpr.supersayianjim wrote:HEY CA i had the same problem when i tried to start up my rb at first. and it was........the fuel lines were on backwards... fix youre kink and swap the lines going to the fuel rail with the other return line and see if it works!!!
