My s13 seems to be missing some power.

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Luke

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Well, it's not easy for me to explain, but my car has 95k miles and i just bought it at 92k. It seems like it's missing some power it should have. It doesn't pull very hard in first gear. The clutch seems to be a little worn (my next upgrade) but it doesn't seem like it's slipping. I'm going to try and remember what maintenance things 'ive done since i've got this and maybe you guys can tell me some other things I can do:- 300ZX fuel filter- New cone air filter (it is an APC temporarily, it came with an injen intake and the filter was in bad shape)- Carbon cleaned engine, oil and fuel w/ Seafoam(http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....=2312)- NGK Spark plugs- Oxygen sensor- Flushed coolant and filled with new- Cleaned throttle body and MAS sensor with carb cleaner- Oil and filter change- Tightened drive belt and a/c belts(they were a little loose)

What maintenance things can i do besides what i've already done so far. Like i said, i plan on getting an ACT clutch. I"m also going to change the transmission and diff oil. Also possible spark wires and dist.

The real reason why i believe im missing some power is that around 5000 RPMs, sometimes it will start pulling a lot harder than it did in the lower rpms, whether it's 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. This seems to happen coming from lower rpms instead of say hitting the throttle at 4k rpms. I know that the KA24DE has a pretty straight power curve and that it isn't supposed to do that hehe. I'm not all that smart when it comes to this, but im wondering if the carb cleaner could have hurt the sensor in the Mass air sensor? Would that make sense because the engine isn't seeing the increase in airflow and the engine runs lean? Then somehow it sees the air and gives it more fuel? or could it be injectors or fuel pump. Has anyone had similar problems? thanks for the help

(edit: i retyped them in order that i did the maintenance)


96_S14_SE
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Car: 96 S14 SE - 05 VW GTI 1.8t - 89 S13 coupe "gold on brown"

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I could have left a residue on the hot wire.... Thats why I dont use carb cleaner on electrical parts. Spray it on your hands and you can feel it. Get a cleaner made just for electronics as it wont leave a residue on the hot wire in the MAF, and try that.

When I did the seafoam I used 3/4 in the vaccume line and then 1 bottle in the tank. I never put it in my oil though as I didnt know how it would turn out. Did you put it in your oil after the oil change or before? it could have broken deposits up and dirtied your filter prematurely. Do you still have the sea foam in tank or in the oil? Check your plugs to make sure fogging didnt foul them out, and see if you can clean them if so.

It could be that or you over tightened the belts, increasing friction, thus needing more power to rotate them.

What type of O2 sensor did you put in? OEM or something else? I have heard stories of bad O2 sensors straight out of the box before found at local parts suppliers, like the universal ones.

It could be alot of things hehe. Since its not really specific just dbl check a few things.

Luke

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Well, i changed my oil, oil filter, spark plugs and o2 sensor after the seafoam treatment. I got my o2 sensor at napa auto parts. It wasn't an oem brand.

As far as the belts, i just did this because they were squeeling it i revved it after i started cold and it would also squeel after 6000 rpms. I noticed no problems after doing this, it seemed to help some.

I will try and clean the MAF again with something else. I was told to use carb cleaner on that, that's why i did it.

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Two-Forty
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when adding seafoam I was wondering if it makes any difference if when you should add it in your engine...please be specific, I don't want to mess up my internals.

Luke

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Ok, im getting somewhere. Today I bought some 75w-90 gear oil and changed the oil in my differential. This helped so much. The car rides smoother and it seems like my acceleration problems are getting better. I picks up a lot better. Also, i no longer get that feeling like im in too high of a gear when cruising in 4th or 5th gear (at the right speeds) The diff oil was very dirty and smelled like a mix of eggs and ****. hehe anyways. I recommend that anyone who hasn't done this in a while, to do it.

Also, i used Valvoline synpower full synthetic gear oil 75w-90, now i read my owners manual and the only thing it says is "GL-4*3" for the transmission and "GL-5*3" for the rear diff. I guess those are API codes. Anyways, the valvoline gear oil i bought says on the back "GL-5 and MT-1" And no where in the description does it say anything about using it manual transmission (but i guess the MT-1 means just that) anyways, it's the correct weight and all, it should be ok to use it in my trans correct?

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180crafter
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Did you by mistake scrape off your type R sticker? This is a very important part. Please make sure that you put this back on and that it is the complete opposite color of your car for optimum power.

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Two-Forty
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I can smell sarcasm a mile away, I just thought if theres any specifications because by flushing out the old oil it can get rid of all the carb deposits as of to adding it AFTER the new oil change....

MaineExport
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Car: 95 Nissan 240SX FAL fans AEM intake Hot Shot header Apexi N1 dual Exhaust VLSD ABS NX 50 shot

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Two-Forty wrote:I can smell sarcasm a mile away,


Well, you totally missed it in your dip-stick thread!!

Don't take it too badly man, it's just that we need to pick on new blood sometimes!!! Your questions are entirely welcome, but you will have to sort through the responses of those that are easily annoyed by your questions.

Luke

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wow this thread was hijacked :P


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