Post by
staff »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/staff-u58304.html
Thu May 17, 2007 6:14 am
Heres alot of info and pictures about the engine build! Hope you enjoy!
Cylinder Block:
This is my new Custom pistons from JE, they are coated and have gas ports at the top ring, oil ports to the pin and the pin has coned edges so it locks perfect.
As you can see it’s a big difference from the off the shelf Wiseco pistons I used last time. They new pistons also have less CR.
All the parts in the engine have bin weight adjusted and balanced.
Since my last bearings gave me wrong bearing gap I gut new ones and polished the crank journals a bit more. Here I have mounted new bearings to check the bearing gap again. I used a inside micrometer to get the exact measurements inside each bearings.
And I used a normal micrometer to get the diameter of the crank and then calculated the bearing gap. This time it was perfect, 0.05mm
Then I did the same on the rods, his was good to 0.06mm. I wanted some more play on the rods.
I loosened and cleand everything again. And now it was time fore the crank to go in. I put oil on the bearings and crank. After putting the crank in place I spun it a couple of times to get oil all around. Normally I would check if the crank was straight at this point with a indicator clock. But I know its straight since we had to straighten it and we double checked it while balancing the crank, flywheel etc.
After tighten the maincaps in the correct order, I found a problem. The crank was not spinning right, I measured the crank end play on the main bearing and it had no play at all. I loosend the center cap and this made a difference. So I took of all the caps again and started to adjust the gap.
To give more end play I had to use a real fine sanding paper and sand down the bearing abit. This takes some time since you have to be very careful not to damage the bearing. I moved the bearing in eights around the paper. I test fitted it over ten times before I gut the correct play. But its better to check ten times to much the one time to less.
Then I mounted it all back together and started mounting pistons to the rods.
The rods are mached in weight and so are the pistons so it all goes together in a special order. The rods where terrible from the start, not even close to the same weight. But the JE pistons where absolute perfect match. it’s a real pain some times getting the locking fore the piston pins.
I measured the piston ring gap and it was perfect, so after mounting the rings to the pistons I started putting the pistons into the block. But on the third piston I gut some problems, I hurt one of the compression rings so I had to order new ones. As the new rings arrived I was ready to put the last two pistons into the block. Then whene the last rod was tightend I checken all the rod side cleararens.
HEAD.
The head work is complete. I have ported the intake and exhaust ports, done a 3angle cut to both valves and seats. The head has bin polished so its straight. I use the custom grinded camshafts from my last head and my home made solid lifters.
The valves are machined but I grinden them fore hand and testet them fore leaks just to be sure.
I changed valveseals in the head, I use special plyers to take the old ones out and then a rights size tool to pound them into place.
After a lot of cleaning I put the valves etc back into the head. I checked the valve play with a filler and its 0.25 on intake and 0.30 on exhaust.
Putting it together.
After all the pistons where inside the block I mounted my ARP bolts and the head gasket.
Then I lifted on the head, this was abit tricky becuase the spacers fore the arp bolts dont fit whene the head is on. So I had to space the head with a peace of plastic while planing the spacers around the bolts. Then I use moly type grease on the nuts and tourged the bolts in the correct order to the rights nm. In lack of rights tools you have to make the rights one from old crappy tools.
Then I mounted my camsprockets and placed the cams to the standard setting.
I used a dial indicator and a tool placed in the sparkplug hole to get the correct TDC on the first piston.
Then I placed the dial indicator on the cam. I turned the camshaft and watched the indicator untill the valve hit the piston. Now I had a correct valve to pistons clearence.
Then after mounting the oilpump, sump etc etc. The engine is finaly ready! J feals good.
Fuel Rail and 1600cc injectors inplace. Intake is sand blasted
sandblasted oilfilter holder, silver painted block and sump. Looks good I think.
So now the engine is complete, whaiting fore intakeplenum and exhaust manifolds and some oil tubing before going into the car. I still have work left on the car, need to paint the interior and rollcage. Then putting in the interior parts and electrical system etc will take some time. But im on my way
RegardsStaffan