My rb25det doesnt get any vaccum

[Omni]

Well i installed the the freddy intake manifold and started up the car and i was getting no boost nor was i getting any vaccum...the boost gauge shows 0 no matter what i do...i tightened down all the bolts as tight as possible again and stil nothing guys i dunno what to do...could timing be and issue causing it to not produce vaccum..NEED HELP ON THAT ONE GUYS i finally got my maf and my friends said it idles alot better but i was not getting any vaccum or boost the crap stays on 0 no matter what i try and its frustrating even though i am out of gas now

[mixeds14]

sound like it might be a bad gasket or hose somewhere/ vac leak, even if timing was off u should still be able to boost a little.. was the motor working properly b/f the intake was install?... if not then check ur waste gate it might be sticking open.. just some ideas...

[Omni]

well i put on the new intake before starting up the car so i dont even know to be honest...i think i probably have to set the timing over and take it for a drive to see if it will start behaving...also there is popping coming from my turbo any ideas on that

[robbie2883]

how does it drive? are you sure the gauge is working?

[Omni]

its a brand new gauge and i didnt get to drive it really yet cause the turbo keeps popping and the vaccum is kinda iffy...i also plugged it in directly by the intake and its got like 2 lines of vaccum hahahahah smh..so i definately know its working...i guess i just gotta tighten down more s***..put the turbo popping im at a lost..could the poppin be coilpack or bad timing

[robbie2883]

do a compression test

[Omni]

vaccum issues aside...what does compression have to do with the poppin from the turbo??...also i doubt its compression cause my car fires up np and once there is enough gas in it it runs forever np...without really stumbling and that was without my maf....now i got my maf and i ran outta gas hahahhaha

[robbie2883]

that doesn't make sense. the motor will NOT idle at 0 psi without some signs of stumbling. it pulls vacuum just by the physics of the piston movement. so again...i'm led to believe you have a problem with the gauge. the popping on the turbo...that's such a broad explanation of what's happening you won't be able to get any true help over the internet untill you go more into depth on how it's popping, when it's popping...if it's FOR SURE coming from the turbo. maybe a video of it? do the first simple steps. do a boost leak test, a compression test and a leak down. one of those will most likely lead you to your problem area.

[Xit40]

First I would check the gauge to make sure it's working correctly. I had the same thing happen to me, 0 vac/boost on the gauge no matter what I did. It turns out the boost gauge line was pinched behind the gauge in the A Pillar Pod. Sounds dumb I know, but check out the line and gauge first.

Second Do a boost leak test to see if/where you have any vacuum/boost leaks. Check everything after the MAF. Listen for air escaping, move things around to see if it changes anything and use some soapy water to locate harder to hear/find leaks. You'll usually find leaks from the fuel injectors, TPS Sensor, Intake Manifold gasket, vacuum hoses/nipples, intercooler couplers, etc.

Those two steps should pinpoint any intake problems you have. If you feel it's still not running right after that go ahead and do a compression test and a leakdown test if you find something wrong. The fact that it starts and runs signifies that you have at least decent compression.

The popping your hearing probably has to do with the fact that it was running in safe mode since you had the MAF unhooked. Most likely just the hot turbo burning off unburned fuel vapors since it runs SUPER rich in safe mode. It should clear up on it's own when you install and hook up the new MAF

[Omni]

First I would check the gauge to make sure it's working correctly. I had the same thing happen to me, 0 vac/boost on the gauge no matter what I did. It turns out the boost gauge line was pinched behind the gauge in the A Pillar Pod. Sounds dumb I know, but check out the line and gauge first.

Second Do a boost leak test to see if/where you have any vacuum/boost leaks. Check everything after the MAF. Listen for air escaping, move things around to see if it changes anything and use some soapy water to locate harder to hear/find leaks. You'll usually find leaks from the fuel injectors, TPS Sensor, Intake Manifold gasket, vacuum hoses/nipples, intercooler couplers, etc.

Those two steps should pinpoint any intake problems you have. If you feel it's still not running right after that go ahead and do a compression test and a leakdown test if you find something wrong. The fact that it starts and runs signifies that you have at least decent compression.

The popping your hearing probably has to do with the fact that it was running in safe mode since you had the MAF unhooked. Most likely just the hot turbo burning off unburned fuel vapors since it runs SUPER rich in safe mode. It should clear up on it's own when you install and hook up the new MAF

YOU SIR JUST CLEARED UP ALOT FOR ME..but i think the boost gauge is working cause it is showing like 2 bars of vaccum hahahah...and as for the poppin that crap is annoying as s***...i dunno wtf to do about it...but i put on the maf and for the time it did start a little it started to pop when i gave it a little gas before the gas ran out so i dunno...i am gonna change out the old oil again and see what i get...i think there are probably still some blockage or aka old build up so maybe if it gets a good run it will clear it up somewhat i hope and i think i am losing vaccum from the throttle body where i used silcone to seal it to the intake

[Xit40]

I try to be helpful. I siliconed my TB on my Greddy Manifold and haven't ever had a leaking problem there(one of the only places that never leaked ironically).

I was reading back thru the thread again and I would double check your timing first. Make sure the belt is in decent condition (if you haven't changed it already) and take a look at your pulleys (idler and tensioner if you can get at them) just to make sure all that stuff is looking good. Check the physical timing just by turning the motor over by hand. After you check for any boost/vacuum leaks and you can get the car running decent for a little bit throw a timing light on it to check the electronic timing.

[Omni]

lol the thing is so tight in there i cant fit a ratchet in there hahaha smh craps depressing...stop raditor and the front of the rb is super close

[Omni]

welll i tightened down some more bolts and now gauge is showing 2 lines of vaccum....could i be missing a vaccum port or what...anyone have a vaccum diagram with the greddy intake on...i know my engine is good...it just that stupid vaccum unless i am missing something minor but should it cause the guages to react like that??

[l0nestar]

Make sure your gauge is working.. what is your source? Is your gauge electronic (uses a sender) or mechanical (have to run a vacuum line into the cabin)?

Either way, use a hand vacuum pump (or your lungs) and test the gauge out that way.

[Omni]

Make sure your gauge is working.. what is your source? Is your gauge electronic (uses a sender) or mechanical (have to run a vacuum line into the cabin)?

Either way, use a hand vacuum pump (or your lungs) and test the gauge out that way.

hahaha i like that part about the lungs...but yeah the gauge works cause each time i tighten something i see more vaccums hahahaha...i think i sold that problem but now the maf is acting up smh when i plug in the car revs really high then dies

[l0nestar]

Verify your AFM wiring. Or bad AFM.

[Omni]

but would a bad maf cause the car to rev really high then die
i would more think it would stutter then die out not rev to s***

[Omni]

Make sure your gauge is working.. what is your source? Is your gauge electronic (uses a sender) or mechanical (have to run a vacuum line into the cabin)?

Either way, use a hand vacuum pump (or your lungs) and test the gauge out that way.

hahaha i like the one about the lungs