My RB25 Woe's (problems)

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Real Boring 240
Posts: 56
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 2:44 pm
Car: RHD RB25 240

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OK, Here's my RB25 experience. I owned a sr20det 240 but came across a deal on a RB25 clip i just couldn't miss. I thought, what do i have to lose? I gain 2 more cylinders and a bunch of torque! So i sold the SR20 and got me the RB25. I tried to go the cheap route and install this thing at a friends house (doing it at my own residence is not an option). After some drama between him, his parents, and my car. . ..i ended up paying $100 to tow it to another location (i had pulled out the sr20 there so it would not move)

Ok, lesson learned, Don't take on big messy car projects in 1)a gated community with neighbors that complain 2)your friends PARENTS house 3)anywhere where you have a time limit of 1 weekend for a first time swap. ok, whatever. . .i ate those $100, learned my lesson. Now being in southern california, i am spoiled with shops everywhere, good and bad. Ok, i say f*** it and splurge, i take it to a very reputable shop with guys who know what they're doing since they do these swaps all day long. So anywho, another $100 tow truck bill gets my car to the shop. Now here's the doozy. . .the tow truck drops my car off right?. . ..then backs into it right before he leaves. ..lol! I'm like wtf??!! Well, he's taking care of the bill once the car comes out of the shop. I'll probably just end up getting a carbon fiber unit rather then repair and respray the stock one. ..who knows. on with the story. . .

$2500 for the swap. ...install the motor,do the wiring, install Greddy Intake Manifold and Q45 TB, FMIC piping and install Mckinney Motormounts and driveshaft(which were included in the price and installed flawlessly btw). Time was great. .it only took a few days to drop in the motor and get it wired up. I got that call, your car is ready to pick up! I was stoked to say the least.

When i drove it home, it felt kind of funny(no power) but was afraid my expectations might of been too high so i drove it home anyway(not that far). I called the shop and told them my concern and they told me to bring it on down to make sure everything was cool. So i said great! I take it a day later and end up overheating by the time i get there. Now thats my fault because i provided the fan they used which was enough for my Turbo 4cyl but not this car. luckily, it wasn't THAT bad to cause damage. Since we were running on no guages he said it'd be a good idea to install these so we know whats going on (which makes plenty of sense to me and i agreed) I bought a water temp, boost pressure, and oil pressure.

oh yeah, before i forget. I got the car back with no knock sensor harness! apparently, my clip didnt come with one? I was really tripped out but luckily got one off my friends extra RB20 harness and ran it straight to the ecu since i couldnt find the plug that contains the sheilded wire for the knock sensors

I took the car home later (once the temp came down from this sunny 100 degree cali weather). eventually got around to install them and install another better fan. Overheating solved :):ylsuper Vacuum reads ~20 hg, boosts ~7 lbs. I checked timing with a timing light and verified 15 degrees also. But it's still not running right. TPS is at 5.0-5.1 at idle.

Idle is weird. It drops sometimes temporarily and sometimes seem to be searching for idle. I have no BOV right now so im getting some MASSIVE compressor surge :( (working on that ASAP) but it dies on me upon deceleration sometimes as if it was running an open atmosphere BOV. I suspect its running rich because sometimes i have to kind of pump the gas pedal to get the thing back up and running after one of these decel stops. I don't think there is any vacuum leaks and pretty sure there are no boost leaks either.

The other day, i took my intercooler off just out of a hunch and found oil puddled in the endtanks. enough to drop out when you hold the intercooler sideways on both sides. I immediately thought turbo but it has no problem holding boost pressure at 7lbs. There is no smoke coming out of the tailpipe at all. I cleaned it up and drove it hard for a day then checked again, nothing. weird! My friend brought up a faulty PVC causing blowby from the valve cover going back into the intake stream which is also possible. Anyone know how to check for a faulty PVC? and where to replace it?

The other/main thing is power. The turbo spools, holds boost, but just doesnt go! I mean, it doesnt have nearly the power and torque that an inline 6 turbo motor should be capable of. My friend has a turbo from a spare RB20 that i'm thinking of swapping just to see if its possible the turbo could be causing me any greif. I haven't done a compression test since i purchased the motor when it read around 140 with less then 5 variance across all cylinders (done motor cold and in clip before i purchased it) I've also done the infamous carb cleaner can in search of leaks on vital motor gaskets. ECU shows 55, all good in my neighborhood!

If someone in socal has some good deeds to claim i could sure use some help. Anyone have any tips online they could help me with and should try i would GREATLY appreciate it. In the meantime, i have some schoolwork that needs attending(college boy). thanks for taking the time to read my journey into the land of RB25. any and all responses welcome. thank you

Rafael Gonzalez


Real Boring 240
Posts: 56
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 2:44 pm
Car: RHD RB25 240

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oh, and btw, just incase it comes up. Timing belt was changed, its new (power enterprise). Water pump was changed to a N1 waterpump, new idler pulley(waiting on tensioner), new clutch and plugs were checked today(looked in great shape). Motor has 70k kilometers on it according to the cluster.

Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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My RB20 feels Way faster than his 25 with those mods he has. I'm clueless on what to check now. TPS is right at spec, Knock sensors are hooked up. It feels like it's making maybe 159hp it's not very strong at all. . . Maybe we should keep it that way so when we race I'll smoke you lol. Then make a vid and show everyone that Rb20 ownes the RB25 lol.

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JonPowell
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Try advancing the timing till you start to get knock, then back it off and see if that helps. Try also lowering the spark plug gap...you may be blowing out the spark. You should have gobs of power.....

Yellow4g63
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
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We regaped the plugs and tried to advanced the timming, car runs like crap and throws the knock sensor code. You can feel it just killing the timming. We retard it and it responds a little better but still no power at all.

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JonPowell
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Wow...that sucks. how does the exhaust look...is it real black or any reason to lead you to think its running too rich?

Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
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He still has his Stock Kat in there with 3" downpipe and 3" exhaust. I think it is running rich too, You can hear it poping but no flames cause of the cat. It's clean on the exhaust and bumper. I think I'll tell him to try and reverse the knock sensor wiring might be wrong if the computer is that sensative. Not sure where the oil in the intercooler came from too. The spark plugs were clean when we pulled them out and the car dosen't smoke at all.

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JonPowell
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the cat might be creating too much back pressure too.....try gutting it or replacing it.

Yellow4g63
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We will see if he wants to give it a shot. He had the same Kat on his SR and it ran fine. It didn't look like it was lava flowing before he put it back on for the RB swap.

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JonPowell
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the cat is a performance killer anyway. It may have flown good for the KA, then started getting plugged for the SR and now its shot...just a theory, but gut the bastard either way.

mambastu
Posts: 48
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 10:37 am

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You say the cam belts been changed, has it been done properly ? Might be worth checking everything lines up OK.

Real Boring 240
Posts: 56
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 2:44 pm
Car: RHD RB25 240

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ok, I got an update for you guys. Me and Yellow4g63 took a couple hours to take another crack at this thing. We removed the TPS sensor and used the one that came with the RB25(was previously using Q45 TPS i assume?) Gained some power! Still not there though. ..seems to still be lacking power. I guess the range on the other one was wrong or maybe it was just bad? Idle seems better although the car still dies upon decel sometimes. we still need to perform the "high flow cat" mod. mambastu, The shop did the Timing Belt and i have faith they did it right but a second look at it could never be wrong, you are correct. I'll have it checked just so i can mark it off my list of possible causes. Other things still on my list is possibly turbo? possible knock sensor issues(although its NOT throwing codes)? i'm running out of possibilities here!

Rafael Gonzalez

Joe
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Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

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PUT A DAMN BLOW OFF VALVE ON!!!! dude that will KILL your turbo if you havent done so already!!!

i will say for sure the reason it is dying after you boost is the same reason people have problems running an ATM vented BOV. the ECU is expecting all this air to be rerouted back into the engine (essientally) and it isnt there. the stock fuel maps are set up for it and without all this air it bogs. there are ways around it but ive found the best solution is to just give it a LITTLE gas after a boost so it dosent bog out. you will learn.

and as for your power loss, i dunno. if its holding 7lbs it should be pretty damn fast. it could be 100 diffrent things that cause power loss.

Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
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Kamin wrote:PUT A DAMN BLOW OFF VALVE ON!!!! dude that will KILL your turbo if you havent done so already!!!

i will say for sure the reason it is dying after you boost is the same reason people have problems running an ATM vented BOV. the ECU is expecting all this air to be rerouted back into the engine (essientally) and it isnt there. the stock fuel maps are set up for it and without all this air it bogs. there are ways around it but ive found the best solution is to just give it a LITTLE gas after a boost so it dosent bog out. you will learn.

and as for your power loss, i dunno. if its holding 7lbs it should be pretty damn fast. it could be 100 diffrent things that cause power loss.


Soo what your saing is he needs a BOV? lol j/k lol. He is working on it..... Altho if I were him I would have just cut the flange off his old SR intercooler pipe instead of selling the piping. But thats me lol.

goofynick6
Posts: 1216
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 9:58 am
Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET

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Yeah, the Q45 TPS is opposite of a normal unit, and reads 5v at idle, where as a stock tps will read about 0.5v instead. Gut your car...mine ono my 240 is clogged and gets sooo hot after 10 minutes with just the stock ka (can't wait to get time to gut it). Then get a bov; very important. That should help things...keep an eye on your oil and the ic pipes.

Nick


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