Tim's RB25NEO S14

[Carl H]

the r35 injectors are a nice drop in injector, being oem they'll be super reliable and easy to tune the ecu for.

[TimTurboZ]

The JGY brackets worked fine. my friend just had to adjust them for his 1000cc's I'm actually going to go register my car tomorrow for my temp tag then buy a vband clamp and flange .Starting up before tune I'll be using a normal sidefeed rb25 370's and rail (bolts to Intake Manifold) I just have to pick up those fat bottom injector seals (go in between the injectors and intake manifold) and the injector harness from my other friends car

[TimTurboZ]

$688 in backfees!?!?!

Car is not registered yet lol but.....

IT RUNS!

[fbvideo]https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10 ... =2&theater[/fbvideo]

Elbow Next week I ordered a Vband clamp and plate online for $20. Tognotti's (local racecar shop) had a Vibrant Exhaust 3" vband for $70

I cant pay the fees yet but I may still tune it after the elbow and register it next month.

More Updates as they come

-Tim

[TimTurboZ]

MAF wire came off near the ecu so now it revs [fbvideo]https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10 ... tif_t=like[/fbvideo]

[TimTurboZ]

I need a new Fuel pump it kept leaning out up top, also my FPR showed a DROP in pressure higher rpms when it boosted so going to get a Walhbro 400...then I can tune for E85 if I choose to. Still want to use 91 tho. Also I forgot to check my radiator even tho it was getting HOT on the dyno all day...no clue why none of us there didnt think to check my water level. Half the day we had to spray the radiator with water. I did 10 pulls...I believe the 9th pull my HG kinda started to leak friend saw water shoot out of the overflow tube (its open no hose on it) and my tuner said it acted different. I had to bump up the idle after the dyno I did a pull later on in the day HG blew dieseling/subie noise, white smoke, empty rad, the works. So along with a Fuel Pump I'll be ordering a metal HG and will have my head at the shop this week to be inspected.

I should have it all back together end of May and tuned again early June.

I wasnt happy with my car on the dyno turbo spooled wayyy to late. It should make much more power and let me boost higher...stupid walhbro 255.

[chad b.]

That Walbro 255 pump should not be running out of steam at 269whp. That pump with right size fuel lines and injectors should make 500whp on pump gas. Check for fuel leaks, rewire the fuel pump, and check the fuel line inside the tank. I had a VERY similar problem. Make sure the fuel line inside the tank doesn't have any loose hose clamps, the fuel line is in good condition, and make sure the line is a "submersible" high pressure SAE 30R10 grade hose. Make sure the pump is clocked correctly so that the filter isn't smashed up against the tank, make sure the filter is in fact still on the pump. If it isn't, the pump could have sucked something up in it causing a flow restriction. Check your fuel filter. If it's an aftermarket filter, make sure it can flow enough fuel for what you're trying to do. I'm not trying to insult your intelligence by any means, so I hope you don't take it that way. My car ran fine until upwards of 60psi fuel pressure (20+psi boost), then the pressure would fall out. I found several problems inside my fuel tank. Forgive me if you've already checked some of these things. I don't feel like reading 4 pages of posts.

[TimTurboZ]

I had 1/4 tank of 4yr old gas in the car (effect pump at all?), I ran the pump to dump it out, It has the battery in the trunk with a relay run off the stock power wire. I added 1/4tank of fresh 91, it ran for awhile before the dyno and I used a new z32 fuel filter not aftermarket. The pump was ran on on a KA-T setup so it was already beat. I have the 255 from my old car but I would rather buy a new pump especially because I'm sure the s14 fuel pump is a pain to do in the car so wanna only do this once.

No leaks fuel wise. It went from 40psi on the FPR gauge to 42 then dropped to like 36 in boost...

[TimTurboZ]

[robbie2883]

I had 1/4 tank of 4yr old gas in the car (effect pump at all?), I ran the pump to dump it out, It has the battery in the trunk with a relay run off the stock power wire. I added 1/4tank of fresh 91, it ran for awhile before the dyno and I used a new z32 fuel filter not aftermarket. The pump was ran on on a KA-T setup so it was already beat. I have the 255 from my old car but I would rather buy a new pump especially because I'm sure the s14 fuel pump is a pain to do in the car so wanna only do this once.

No leaks fuel wise. It went from 40psi on the FPR gauge to 42 then dropped to like 36 in boost...

the pump might be failing or lines are collapsing. are you on stock lines? fyi just a month or so ago i did 547 on a 255 with stock lines. but that was running out of fuel up top for sure. thomas is right though, for your numbers, unless something is wrong with the system or the pump, you should not be running out of pump at that low hp.

[Carl H]

why did your tuner continue going with the car despite lean afrs and dropping fuel pressure?!?!
what kind of fpr do you have on the car?

how much boost?

[TimTurboZ]

Carl he was trying to tune out the leaning issue but it obviously wasn't working. We only checked to see the FPR was at 39/40psi at idle not while it was running until the 9th run? Maybe my 10th and last.

My friend had 1 of his dual Walbro 255's go out on the dyno and it ad the similar issue so we suspected it was a weak pump he said to get a new pump and get back to him. We turned up the boost to see what it would do it was at 14psi the last 2 or 3 runs. Ebay FPR w/Gauge Carl btw

My head was warped (possibly from my 1st HG going) so its at the shop should hear back Monday pretty hopeful its not cracked. Need to get a straight edge and feeler gauges to check my block.

Can I loctite my ARP studs in. I they always come loose with the nuts are they suppose to? 1st install I had moly lube on threads in block, 2nd time without. so I was unsure what I should do. I always tighten them down with an allen head...

I ordered the non E85 Walbro 400 it was cheaper and I really would just go with meth injection before e85 (not enough stations around for my liking I plan to take many trips in the car)

I got a Cosworth Metal HG from my friend its for his build but I'm going to just order him another in a few months so I should have it back together end of the month if the head and block check out.

-Tim

[TimTurboZ]

Also to Chad I pulled my 255 out (after running it to get about 6gallons out of the tank) Filter bag looked perfect angled correctly unobstructed. I will see what happens when its back at the dyno

[robbie2883]

always always always use moly lube on the head studs and the nuts and washers. otherwise friction created by tightening the studs and nuts down can actually give you proper tq readings but the studs or nuts not actually be tightened down like they should be.

[TimTurboZ]

thx i will get some for reassembly, I know what it does but I thought maybe using it in the block was the reason the studs seemed loose. is there a torque setting I can use for the studs prior to nuts? I always make sure the block is free of water, dirt, oil, etc before I install the studs

[chad b.]

you used Loctite on your head studs?!?! wow man

[TimTurboZ]

??? No I asked can I lol I

[TimTurboZ]

Walbro 400 fit better than the 255 (doesnt have lil rubber boot for the bottom but whatever)





need a smaller feeler gauge to check my block only had a .006 need a .002 atleast but it does look fine.

Called the shop they told me the head was .003 off. just got decked and pressure tested. Picking up the head tomorrow. Glad it wasn't cracked

A friend had a pair of oem foglights for sale so I'm picking them up Sunday for $70 I always liked the look of them.

More updates after the 19th for sure, should have my exhaust heat wrapped, car together, and back on the dyno. before the months over. Should have $ to get front tires for my 19's so I'll have a full set on.

Tim

[Carl H]

if you installed the studs correctly they should not work loose...
use the allen to tighten the stud hand tight then torque properly.
if they're fresh arp studs they WILL streach the first cycle so you will need to check and retorque if need be about 200 miles after normal use.

[TimTurboZ]

i drove it for 1300 mikes then the cheap HG blew. I just drove 170miles on the OEM hg. I found my arp lube i will clean the block and tighten the studs. I feel my head was already warped from last time tho

[TimTurboZ]

Exhaust

[hungryjoseph]

What exhaust manifold is that?

[TimTurboZ]

the newer "thick" CXRacing

[TimTurboZ]

SO ANOTHER SAD UPDATE



Had this





Bought this


Did this


This

[TimTurboZ]

After install of my pump I had no fuel pressure. The Walbro 400 has it connectors labeled +/- but it was reversed on the fuel pump! my friend said he read some were mislabeled like that and sure enough that was my issue...weird

[gawdzilla]

that sucks big time. those pics look painful

are you sure you didn't have a bad exhaust leak which superheated the brake reservoir? wastegate leak, turbo leak, or downpipe leak? you need some pretty extreme conditions to melt the entire reservoir like that. maybe a tune that was really off to cause that much heat in the exhaust?

i've warped the cap on mine, but thankfully it never got to that level.

[TimTurboZ]

See how close it is? I didnt even have the license plate anymore after the heatwrap.

my Wastegate points down but is open. I forgot my flange for my WG the day I had my elbow made and the shop bent me a pipe for the screamer pipe but I never had it welded and installed/heat wrapped.

YES I was running super rich, lowered the Fuel Pressure to get it to idle SEMI ok. Timing was at 15deg. I assume there could have been flames coming out of my WG.

I'm buying this Turbo Blanket http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info ... fd06aabd97
I like this ^^^^website got my couplers, flexpipe, and heatwrap here.

I was thinkingI should heatwrap the area of the elbow from the turbo to the firewall extra layers. Also make a good heat shield for the master cylinder. Welding my Screamer pipe up would help a great deal I imagine.

My coilpack harness plugs melted onto the coils, but the wiring is perfectly fine and the coils dont seem affected. I was assuming I'd go LS coils but I just want to move my car from where it sits in my backyard.

MAF and o2 sensor wires melted bad, I'm buying an AEM Wideband so I will just use the wire harness it has. The MAF wires just need like 2' replaced I wanted to extend them a little more anyway.

I may wait to dyno again and still buy the LS coils because overall I would have a gain and he could set the dwell on them for me.

[Yellow4g63]

dang that looks scary as hell, Mine hasn't gotten that hot since my turbo sit lower. I also have a vented hood that might help keep the temps down.

[Carl H]

is that an old turbonetics delta gate?!?!
if so i feel like 1999 just called!

i'd try and figure out what happened and what failed to prevent this from happening again.
my wg sits VERY close to the brake master but in the 8 years I've had the manifold and wg setup i've never had an issue.
very old pic of my setup

[Yellow4g63]

is that an old turbonetics delta gate?!?!
if so i feel like 1999 just called!

That really made me LOL

[TimTurboZ]

Carl it IS!!! Brand "NEW" circa 2001 lol I got it from a friend who would get parts from Japan shipped here.

Like I said the WG is open so its was alot of heat right beside master.

I may vent my hood a bit and I'll get crafty with a heat shield for the brake lines and master. I'm going to have the screamer pipe added for now til I decided to route it back into the exhaust.

Ordering turbo blanket monday, picking up master cylinder Sun, I found a guy selling 7 LS2 coils with both harness's and 1 bracket (dont even use the GM brackets anyways) for $40!!!! picked up So hope that doesnt fall thru sweeeet deal if it goes down

Updates soon

Tim