Tim's RB25NEO S14

[TimTurboZ]

Soldered MAF and O2 wires today, I think the shielded section of the signal wire for the O2 was twisted together with the signal wire before I soldered it if that makes a difference. Car seemed to go past 5k easier in 2nd, 3rd hesitated, and 4th fought but eventually went over before I let off.

It's a E61 MAF it's off a 25 NEO I had it imported, not a 97 q45 either (thinks that is what also shares the E61) It's CLEAN as can be. took off the 4 screws over the plug and checked the inside/solders look brand new, inside the MAF my screen is mint, sensor is clean as can be. MAF looks brand new, I'll see if the soldered wires helps my MPG at all, timing is still sketchy. I'm unsure of how to check my MAF and TPS, and if there is a way to check the CAS.

I don't know what checking the continuity on the MAF/TPS means...I have a volt meter tell me where to touch the ends and what setting and I can do that lol

if nothing else I'll update once I get my tune and get feedback from my tuner if he see any trouble areas.

Oh consult wires off my ECU (there are 2 for it) are not connected and labeled/taped off. My car is a 95. Do the consult wires go to a OBD2 plug?

Pretty sure Rich didn't even hook up my MIL (check engine light) wire...I'm pretty sure there's only 1 wire off the ECU to the interior plug for it...I have no idea why he wouldn't of hooked it up.

My check engine light is always on

[Carl H]

uh...you shouldnt be able to remove that plug.
its soldered to the control board.

[TimTurboZ]

See the huge gray plug on my harness that's the only plug that goes into my ECU, it has no other ports...I assume by "CONTROL BOARD" you mean ECU. If not please elaborate

I haven't found the answer yet but I'll keep looking but if you look at my engine pics and look or my FPR it's dark almost black, it's my RB20 FPR worked great on my 20 only reason it's being used is BOTH of my RB25 FPR's were stuck closed

Also if you really look where the fuel inlet line goes the NEO comes with a Fuel damper like a mini FPR BOTH of these were also stuck closed on both my NEO motors! So I took 1 of the NEO FPR's that I got to stick open (tried to check the valve by pressing a screwdriver into it ended up smacking it repeatedly and it stuck open) I figured I have NEVER seen a damper in the inlet only a FPR on the outlet, so running basically an open element was like having a hose there. The NEO inlet and outlet on fuel rail has to have a FPR type piece bolted onto it and and I didn't want to wait for a rail adapter (like you'd use for an aftermarket FPR)

A friend told me last night that possibly my 20 FPR could be part of my cut issue, he suggested taking off the vacuum hose to my FPR to bump up the pressure.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!!!! Tim

Oh should have some staggered 18/19's on the car tomorrow! So maybe some pics finally

[Carl H]

plug on the upper left is the maf plug, pic is of a z32 unit but thats not important.

there are 4 screws that hold the plug to the housing, the tabs are soldered to the maf control board...you should not be able to remove that plug without popping off the maf cover and desoldering those connections first

[TimTurboZ]

The wires actually Make like a sideways "V" one end goes to the board other to the back of the 4 screw plate. if u remove the screws and slowly wiggle it and lift it enough (THANK GOD I WAS GENTLE) you can see inside. I had good lighting and could clearly see the solders looked impeccable. I realized removing that top plate is what should have been done and quickly counted my blessings that I did not try and pry the plug off and have a solder break. Seeing the solders were fine I decided not to remove the top plate in case something accidentally happened.

From reading the rb20 and 25 fuel pressure is the same, also removing the vacuum line did not help the cut while off it went past 5k smooth in 2nd, the slightest little hesitation in 3rd and I could feel wasn't going to be happy going past in 4th. Later with the vacuum line hooked back up a 2nd 3rd and 4th gear run past 5k all went successful.

I also drove around a decent little bit today and didn't notice my gas gauge move an excessive amount. Perhaps having the shielding of o2 wire twisted with the signal wire (metal on metal) had a negative effect as well as not having my wires soldered.

I will update on my MPG situation as well as my tune if nothing noteworthy happens before I get it done.

Carl H I truly appreciate your responses.

Tim

[Carl H]

you honestly might just have a bad maf...those sensors are known failure points in the maximas (same maf).

[TimTurboZ]

I don't know why I didn't think to check my water temp sensor. I pulled my 25 sensor off and it defnitely had seen better days instead of cleaning it off I used mt RB20 sensor, it had a bigger probe and I know it works fine. I drove tonight and it seemed ok, I will do alot of driving tomorrow and see how it goes.

Putting on a solid transmission mount to replace my busted OEM mount I think the transmission moving wore my center support bearing, swear I hear it rub in the HWY sometimes.

Would you suggest a 300zx MAF for my car? Would it be a better option to tune with? My MAF should be good for 330-350HP I know I'm not past 300 especially without the tune.

[TimTurboZ]

Gas mileage seems to of improved after the water temp sensor swap. Hopefully paying for my NISTUNE board tomorrow or monday so should be tuned by the middle of the month after the board arrives...can't wait to get rid of this cut

My friend has a spare N62 (300zx) MAF I could use for the tune so if I get no response I'll leave it up to my tuner to decide if I should run it.

More updates and hopfully vids soon (screamer pipe vids aswell )

[TimTurboZ]

4.5gallons of 91, got me 110miles (there's a little bit left from where I had filled it) so 24MPG

Guess that Water Temp sensor was really messing with the car...plus I kinda tried to cruise the whole time. The MAF and o2 sensor wires being sorted out could have helped aswell.

I'll see if this was some fluke until my tune but I'm pretty stoked to not see 13mpg anymore.

On the 5th I'm ordering my Nistune board so I'll have some dyno #'s up soon

[TimTurboZ]

Pretty much exact harness I installed in the car w/shoulder pads tho


I have to have my friend weld me a solid transmission mount, my transmission seems too crooked, it is far to the right of the shifter location (shifter trim is a auto I cut) I have mis-shifted a few times 3rd to 2nd, 4th to 3rd

There were very stong winds in Sacramento the other night, taking a back road I drive often my back end spun out after a slower turn onto the straight. I think I may of mis-shifted or the dirt to the side had blown onto the street, I literally had been inspecting the crappy tread left on my rear tires the day before I've, welded dif doesn't really help me out could have hit a bump. I was going about 40-50mph range when the back end spun. I went over the left lane insto some dirt and spun tapping my pass front and then pass rear into this huge dirt wall/mound.

I may just get widebody front fenders since OEM undented fenders are overpriced online, my door got a good dent too. 1/4 panel has a big smooth dent behind the wheel between the bumper. I can more than likely pop it out. I swear I wasn't trying to street drift! My 5k cut may have disappeared with my Water Temp Gauge swap (or helped alot) but I don't want to drift it til I get my Nistune so be safe.

Just bad luck and caught me offguard Just a car it can be fixed

[LSDrift]

You may already know this so I don't mean anything by it, but in order to use the Z32 MAF you must have a way to correct for its higher resolution in the ECU i.e. it can't be used as a direct interchange with the N61.

[dftsilvia]

so your not running a tps at all??? thats odd. maybe that could be part of your problem.

and you say it idles at 900rpm? my neo idles at like 500 and its smooth as glass lol

[TimTurboZ]

You may already know this so I don't mean anything by it, but in order to use the Z32 MAF you must have a way to correct for its higher resolution in the ECU i.e. it can't be used as a direct interchange with the N61.

I know

so your not running a tps at all??? thats odd. maybe that could be part of your problem.

and you say it idles at 900rpm? my neo idles at like 500 and its smooth as glass lol

I have a TPS it appears to be stuck at 5v at idle....

[Carl H]

have you checked actual voltage output of the tps at the tps its self?

[TimTurboZ]

I think I checked the 5v wire to the TPS and not the TPS signal wire to the ECU :/ lol I'm about to go test it.

I've never had to test all my sensors before...kinda makes me question my ECU/harness wiring from DAFT.

Anyone have a know good CAS for my motor? Plastic cap CAS not a metal one. I swear mine is still bad. Doesn't help my situation that I think dragging my intercooler put a small hole in it because it has a odd startup idle but it quickly "appears" to go away

Carl if I get a decent pic and write out my ecu wiring to my F3 plug would you be able to let me know if it's all correct? Not sure how familiar you are with the NEO wiring.

[Carl H]

probably could take a look at it, cant promise any miracles tho.

[TimTurboZ]

So concerns...I had matched the TPS wires up before I even had the harness worked on. I'm seeing some issues.


Match the peices to the following pic...


Below the Throttle the brown plug is suppose to be what connects to the TPS...The silver parts that Is removed on my TB is for the traction control. What I have blocked to the left of the that piece Can be seen in the 2nd pic it's functions like a TPS but has about 5-6 wires that go to 2 plugs not part of the TPS wiring...but it would of been turned by the throttle plate movement , you can see they are across from one another. What the TPS went to (the traction control piece) it had a plug that hooked to it and had a gear I guess it would have adjusted the TPS angle. I can take more pics and explain it better if needed but, what should be my TPS goes to nothing that will move it and my throttle body doesn't turn any sort of sensor based on it's movement

Regardless turning my TPS was a bust read 4.5v and when turned just maxed to 5v never went below 4.5v tho so even if it was functioning I suppose it's bad. There's no aftermarket Throttle body for my car that I know of, besides getting a freddy manifold and a q45 :/ would a Series 2 TB hook up? I think my friend has one.

This car's little issues are tiring, I have no one with RB or specifically NEO info around me to talk to. It'd be so much easier to just work on it with someone who knew what was going on

[Carl H]

you have no tps sensor on the pic of your throttle body, it is supposed to be where the smaller oval block off plate is.
if you have it plugged into the one on the traction motor then it will always read high.
the neo tps sensor bolts to the tb and has a flying lead about 8" long, this then plugs into the neo efi harness near the fpr.

[TimTurboZ]

YAY!... I have no idea what would have plugged into those plugs off the ACTUAL TPS, Rich left connections for my Canister Purge, and Turbo pressure solenoid on the harness...

What might I ask is the brown plug I have hooked up? I SWEAR they were listed on the ECU wiring diagram from the WSM as the TPS wires...even Rich left a dam label I made on the harness saying that was the TPS...swear that guy is a POS

Guess I'll TRY and figure this out FML

[TimTurboZ]

In the box of wires/plugs removed from my harness I found 1 that goes to the TPS the other is a mystery. I talked to rich and hopefully I will be driving the car to Modesto next Sat for me to get it finished with him...I'm so dissapointed with his work, had I known he would have had my harness so long the first time I would have sent it to Raw Brokerage and waited for a peice I would have had no issues with

I should have my Nistune board soldered in and have the base tune by the end of next week...so hopefully after I have a TPS hooked up the ride home from Modesto will feel pretty good. Dyno tune may happen the end of the month but more than likely next month.

This has been the most stressful car I've ever worked on!!!!!!!

[dftsilvia]

dude u took your tps out. trust me i have had a neo for 4yrs. it has a long pigtail on it that to down by the front of the engine. why did u take it off lol??

[Carl H]

shop that did his 'conversion' removed it...no idea why.
in all the harnesses that have passed thru my hands i have never had reason to remove the tps.

[dftsilvia]

wow thats weird. wonder how much more half assing is going on in that harness

[TimTurboZ]

He said to me oh yeah there are 2, ones for the traction control or abs, I said yeah I know I have no use for the Traction control TPS. The missing plug for my actual TPS is Gray with yellow and green wires. The black plug for the other pigtail plug has red and white wires. This plug I found in a box he had cut out. I feel the gray plug I'm missing he wired to the Traction control TPS wires...or he traced them all back hella far and cut them off. So now I'm bringing him the box of wires and plugs he cut out, the spare harness I had shipped to me that didn't match mine (some plugs may work for the TPS perhaps) and my car I'll make him re look over everything. Maybe try and get my hands on his wiring diagram to check it out. Kinda scared to have my nistune board installed incase Rich somehow effs up my ECU.

[TimTurboZ]

So think my car will run alot better with a TPS???

[Carl H]

it will run loads better, wont have such a 'chunky' feel to the throttle and your gas mileage will def improve.

[dftsilvia]

it will be way better! better throttle response, prolly wont have that funny 5k thing going on anymore, and deff better mpg

[TimTurboZ]

Mini-Update:

Rich is still being an effing lame f*ck and wont come fix my harness or tell me my tps wiring. I think I'll look at my wiring I had and try to make sense of it.

My Nistune board is in and I may drop my ecu off tomorrow or mon/tue even so I need my TPS right Nistune won't compensate for being tuned and not having a TPS right?

Got a set of xxr (sportmaxx) 962's on the car $200 plus my set of SE's and it came with some crap like pair of staggered one's too, drift/blowout spares so 6 wheels for basically $200 since the SE's came with my 5lug.

I replaced my pass door and fender from the accident. I still feel like I need a new IC I fear mine has a slight leak but it runs alright.

Plan to order PBM Toe Rods because I think I bent my pass rear toe rod, It has toe in so that's my best guess since the arm's by my eyes look ok if not I may have it further inspected hope the subframe is fine, I want PBM suspension anyways so no harm in upgrading pieces

Will update with more when base tune is loaded and hopefully harness fixed

[mixeds14]

Man that sucks u having all these trouble withur Rb. If u want I can take a pic of my TpS n the wiring or give u the wire color from the ecu harness to the tps plug if it will help u.. let me know

[TimTurboZ]

HORRIBLE UPDATE:

So I looked into my TPS wiring, seems Rich hooked up the correct wires just to the TCS TPS. I hooked the wires from it (+,-, Signal) and BAM! car was running better, I was even able to adjust my CAS and it not spike my IDLE/timing so I was stoked.

Driving around town felt good pulled in all gears and no cut! I didn't get on it fully tho I stopped at work to get a drink before going on a full testdrive. I walk out to my car and my new radiator has a leak! It jumped up and sat against my Power Steering pulley wore a hole into it I literally just replaced this rad 3 days ago

I take it to a friends on the way the temps were ok and I did another little pull and I saw steam so I thoguht to myself ok Radiator is definitely leaking (assumed higher RPM's made water flow enough to leak out of the hole again) I pull up to my friends and the car dies...we swap the rad with a s13 one and I start my car and it's missing/idles like crap...look and waters flowing out of my exhaust

My new rings are so good there was no water in my oil until I checked it this morning Chocolate Milk. Pulled all my plugs only cylinder #1 spark plug was wet. I guess I shouldn't have used the Head Gasket that came with my engine rebuild kit.

Now I'm going to look into my best HG option I know CarlH will say OEM but I may go Cometic or something metal since the HEAD and BLOCK were just decked not sure yet. I want to pick up some Tomei Cams possibly RawBrokerage has NEO cams and all 25 cams for $575 now so may be a possiblity.

Not sure if I should venture out and have the car sit even longer for me to install a Freddy Manifold but with the NEO I don't really want to make a bracket for my topfeed injector rail, swap the IACV with one from a Sentra and then more than likely get a Q45 MAF for ease of bolting on (tho In those TPS pics I posted you see a NEO TB on the Greddy Mani)

That whole setup plus the new intercooler AND cams would take me forever at my current wages to save for tho and with Nistune about to be installed I more than likely will stick with the OEM Intake manifold just thinking of what I could do since the head and everything else will already be off.

I have such bad luck the day I fix my harness and am ready for my tune 2nd radiator in a week gets ruined and I blow my HG

LMK what you think about the HG and what performance parts I should try and get while I do the work.

Will post pics after the head is off this week