Tim's RB25NEO S14

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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I had a stuck CLOSED thermostat! fixed that and went to dyno... not impressed. MY TPS mat be defective tuner said it would not go into idle mode so he was using the ignition (spark) to keep the idle down...

The day prior I made 315hp and ~260tq...then he felt like taking away a degree of timing up top even tho he set my AFR's 10.5-1 up top and I never heard him ONCE say it was leaning out. Honestly I was pretty unsatisfied. He didnt know about the LS2 Coils I found dwell sheets on here. He set it to 3.8ms I believe.

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RRRRB
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:31 am
Car: 98 RB powered S14
Location: WA

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looks to me that your tuner hasn't got a clue.. there is no reason to be tuning an engine that rich for one, its 10 flat AFR in parts which is where some widebands max out.. thats not a tune, looks more like a base map..lol

Also you need to get any and every issue your car has sorted out prior to having a tune done, other wise you'll end up with a hack for a tune, like what you have now..

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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1 of my knock sensor wires came off at the plug he said it didnt matter, besides the possible bad TPS, I couldnt think what is the issue. Monday im going to try checking out my TPS. possibly buy one from a local importer.

my 2 friends have told me how his dyno read boost wrong on theri cars so maybe Im not even making that much boost. I will try tuesday to install a boost gauge I just got. I NEED my own wideband gauge/sensor aswell.

tho i may have a s*** tune, It runs and I have learned from both dyno experiences. 1st time I had no clue my fuel pump was weak, and now I have to sort out this other problem. I paid $140 the first time think 11pulls told me yo come back when my fuel pump was fixed, and $215 last time 13runs (2 seperate days only) did 3-4pulls 2nd day (smoothed out power curve)

he wants more $ for this last dyno session, upsetting because like u said this tune is no good

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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he was concerned the shop that bored out my block doesnt havr a torque plate, and he said that plus my arp hardware may cause issue where the cylinders arnt perfect circles, he told me to use 20w-50 oil, and pretty much is against any fuel besides e85. he seemed to try and.make excuses like my LS coils were bad....I'd run rich if they didnt work so dont see why he says that. he made no attempt to raise my lowend power

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TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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rawBrokerage sold me this turbo from an employee off a 25 @ 18psi wonder what power that car made...

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meet07
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Car: 89 180sx rb25det
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I wouldn't blame the tuner...Just from reading this build thread Tim you either have bad luck or you don't know what your doing. Do like I did and download the FSM. It helps a bunch. Then back probe all of your sensor to the ecu to make sure your getting all the proper readings.

I was wondering if your brake master cylinder was leaking.....If it was leaking along the frame and the scream pipe did what it does best(SCREAM!!) then there goes your flame.

I had a 91 prelude that caught fire like that back in the day. I had my battery in the trunk, and the cable that ran from the fuse block to the trunk was rubbing against the brake like and sparked. Caught fire but I was able to put it out with my shirt..lol Not funny at the time.

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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meet07 wrote:I wouldn't blame the tuner...Just from reading this build thread Tim you either have bad luck or you don't know what your doing. Do like I did and download the FSM. It helps a bunch. Then back probe all of your sensor to the ecu to make sure your getting all the proper readings.

I was wondering if your brake master cylinder was leaking.....If it was leaking along the frame and the scream pipe did what it does best(SCREAM!!) then there goes your flame.
It was my old master and booster from my champagne s14 and I dont believe I have any issue with them. I suppose it could have leaked.

I have to get a multimeter and I can check my sensors.

I admit When I had no TPS hooked up before when it first ran a year ago I was a fool. I do know my way around an engine bay tho, I have had alot of bad luck which I have learned to chalk up to bad life experiences try and learn and move on,

Rich at Daft wired my TPS wrong so I neglected to notice my TPS wasnt actually hooked up I had never seen the NEO TPS talked about when I looked up info about the motor and it looks unlike any TPS I had ever seen. You let me know I didnt have it hooked up so I looked into it.

My thermostat was working just fine and it happened to get stuck closed, my cluster temp gauge either A) doesnt work with the RB temp sensor (almost got a S14 one) B) cluster gauge is broken.

It only went to halfway so I always thought my temps were fine. I hooked up my autometer gauge to the RB sensor and whaalahh I can read my temp.

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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SOOO apparantely TPS wires are RED- Signal White- Power Black- Ground. I thought it was Red-power white- signal....Lesson learned. The DAY I hooked up the TPS and it ran what I FELT was right was the day I got my DUI and messed it up so I didnt think to check it. Only the last time at the dyno made me question it. The NISTUNE program showed a TPS signal so I didnt think it would be incorrect. I will drive the car tomorrow and see what it feels like

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meet07
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Oh that's right, you said you have Nistune. At one time I had Nistune and that will help make sure your sensor's are doing what there suppose to do.

What kind of Thermostat do you have? Get a cooler Nismo thermostat. You want to make sure your RB stays cool in the summer. I also say you talk about raising your hood up in the rear. I to did the same thing after reading so many post about overheating RB's. I did it for safe measures.

TPS: Download the FSM and look at the section about TPS. I'm sure the wiring is the same. It should only be 3 wires, and I'm sure there in the same order as the series 1.

RRRRB
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:31 am
Car: 98 RB powered S14
Location: WA

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meet07 wrote:I had a 91 prelude that caught fire like that back in the day. I had my battery in the trunk, and the cable that ran from the fuse block to the trunk was rubbing against the brake like and sparked. Caught fire but I was able to put it out with my shirt..lol Not funny at the time.
I knew i recognized that name from somewhere... (preludepower.com)

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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meet07 wrote:Oh that's right, you said you have Nistune. At one time I had Nistune and that will help make sure your sensor's are doing what there suppose to do.

What kind of Thermostat do you have? Get a cooler Nismo thermostat. You want to make sure your RB stays cool in the summer. I also say you talk about raising your hood up in the rear. I to did the same thing after reading so many post about overheating RB's. I did it for safe measures.

TPS: Download the FSM and look at the section about TPS. I'm sure the wiring is the same. It should only be 3 wires, and I'm sure there in the same order as the series 1.
now I have a gutted oem thermostat. will that cause the water to flow too fast thru the radiator and not cool? i had NO thermostat on a KA and that happened. but i felt the gutted thermostat would restrict the flow enough especially since I have an upgraded radiator. I want to relocate my motor back to fit a clutch fan (weld/redrill motor/transmission mounts) Opinions on stock radiator with clutch fan?

i had raised my hood before on my other s14 but it was for safety, my car now does still gett hot my 10" efan I was able to fit doesnt help at all it seems lol

anyone wanna confirm the wires ARE: red -signal and white -power for TPS? I SAW Nistune read a TPS signal on my car with power to red and signal to white. asked my tuner how nistune read a signal if it was wired wrong he had no idea...


Tim

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Carl H
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 4:09 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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gotta use the autometer sensor with the autometer gauge else its going to read wrong...stock temp gauge wont move till almost 120*c and at that point you're already boiling coolant.

the major crutch with these swaps has always been cooling, if you have a single 10" fan then you DO NOT have enough airflow.
you want the entire rad to be covered to ensure you're getting enough cooling from efans.
clutch fan is great if you can fit it but make sure the coupling is in good shape...mine is starting to crap out unfortunately.

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meet07
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What ^^^^^^^he said. Do like I did and get you FAL or Flex-a-lite fans. I cheapen out and bought my radiator and fan(Twin 12's) as one of those ebay packages. One failed on me about an hour away and I was having a hard time keeping the engine kool at the stop lights. Found out that one fan was weak(Not spinning fast enough) So I went ahead and got the name brand stuff.

As far as the thermostat goes, the engine is not designed to work without a thermostat. I mean the thermostat is there for a reason. With no T-stat then your not even giving the coolant time to cool off....hint the purpose of the radiator, t-stat and coolant mixture...Buy you a nismo stat and save yourself another blown head gasket.

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Buying New sparkplugs *again* what gap u suggest with the LS coils? Buying a Thermostat too.

I know my fan situation is horrible, The autometer gauge works fine so whatever temp sensor I have gives the correct signal. I just was too lazy to drill and tap my IM before the dyno for the sending unit as it does not fit in the IM.

Tuners Consult - USB cable went out on him so have to wait til next week after it comes in to go back and retune it.

I'm hoping those TPS wires were my issue.

RRRRB
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Car: 98 RB powered S14
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I'd find a different tuner..

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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I gapped the plugs to 0.45 I was seeing just under 1bar (so about 14psi) with a boost gauge hooked up carlh you'd love it Vintage! Image

My dyno sheet says 17psi so obviously it wasnt reading correct. I plan to purchase the Nistune software. Self tune down the road. I'd like to have an e85 tune or some other options. I more than likely can find another tuner but I want to see how things look with the TPS hooked up.

Vented my hood aswell. Going to try and mount another 10" fan on the other side of the radiator as a puller. It's pretty hot in Sacramento CA the past week

I'm waking up early going to try and turn up the boost and figure out if the WG spring is weak/malfunctioning

Hope to have some sort of good news soon

Tim

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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send me an extracted rom from your board once you get it...iirc the r34 ecu uses a crude VE calculation method vs the old 'fuel table' from other nissans of the era.
s14's use the same style ecu and they're super finnikey to make work.

also that gap is large for rb motors, i'm guessing its a 1.1mm gap...untill you get some better coils you may have problems firing across that kind of gap.
narrow them down to around 0.8mm and go from there.

Yellow4g63
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Tim Fthose electric fans and throw the fan clutch in it. I live in Socal desert area and my car runs @ 179-185 and 190ish in traffic on a hot day (100's).

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TimTurboZ
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Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Yellow4g63 wrote:Tim Fthose electric fans and throw the fan clutch in it. I live in Socal desert area and my car runs @ 179-185 and 190ish in traffic on a hot day (100's).
I'm getting a stock KA radiator from my friend, if its fine with that and 2 fans I'll run it, with the stock rad if I can fit a clutch fan I will. (No room with the High mount intercooler for the pusher fan in front just checked)

Right now I'd have to relocate my motor back and IDK if my driveshaft has the room to go further in my transmission. Also my rb20 transmission will blow soon I'm sure...so I'll have to have a new driveshaft in for the rb25 transmission I'll get.

My heater doesnt work for SHEEEEEIIT but poor flow thru my heater core woundn't make that huge of a difference atleast from what I read online. I was thinking I could loop the heater core lines and see if the heater core was screwing with my car. my friend ran NO fan and just a aluminum rad for months...I dont get why Im having such issues.

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Carl H wrote:send me an extracted rom from your board once you get it...iirc the r34 ecu uses a crude VE calculation method vs the old 'fuel table' from other nissans of the era.
s14's use the same style ecu and they're super finnikey to make work.

also that gap is large for rb motors, i'm guessing its a 1.1mm gap...untill you get some better coils you may have problems firing across that kind of gap.
narrow them down to around 0.8mm and go from there.
After I get the Nistune program or can my tuner get that for me? (would he be willing I have no idea) I have the gap at 0.45 a HAIR past 1.0 not 1.1 tho I adjusted my MBC and the car ran 1.1bar so 16/17psi (it ran 1.5bar and I let off 1st run adjusted too high haha)

I will post pics of my LS2 coil setup tomorrow

mixeds14
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Tim I was able to run 2 10" pusher fans on my sock ka radiator, even with a front mount. I just had to remove the ac condenser n that gave me the room I needed for the fans.. n y u have the plug gap that high, i though u had to close the gap down with the ls coils because of the higher amount of spark vs the stock one.. also did u end up mounting the coils on the stock location? They are working great for so far..

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TimTurboZ
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Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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heater core bypass was no success still got hot, guess I'll try the stock radiator on monday when I can pick it up

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mixeds14
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Wow. Y dont u move ur intercooler to behind the bumper support. Thats probably y u having some heating problems.. that cooler is probably blocking all the air from goin into the radiator. I seriously doubt the stock ka is goin to help u if u keep the intercooler ib the same spot...

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TimTurboZ
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Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Driving its fine. My car overheats SITTING there is no airflow restriction if theres no airflow ;) the 1 fan is just not enough and my only reason for stock rad is to have clearance for 2 efans just trying options.

Also what never seen this? http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?11

Less bends, less piping, more response. also if I hit anything it wont fall off or get damaged as easily.

Thanks for the replies.

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meet07
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mixeds14 wrote:Wow. Y dont u move ur intercooler to behind the bumper support. Thats probably y u having some heating problems.. that cooler is probably blocking all the air from goin into the radiator. I seriously doubt the stock ka is goin to help u if u keep the intercooler ib the same spot...
^^^^^^^^^^Mixeds14 is right dude. Your intercooler is not allowing enough air to keep that radiator cool. Of course its not running hot while your driving, but sitting still, with the under hood temps, 1 or even 2 10" fans and small stock radiator that can't breath........your just asking for trouble. If this vehicle was a track car I could understand but its not. Let that radiator breathe some more.

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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My friend has the exact setup with a clutch fan NO issues. Its not the intercooler. If the AUTOMETER temp sender was right my car wasn't passing 125degrees on the gauge...Im trying a mechanical temp gauge in the next day or so to see what my temps are truly at tired of playing games. Have to get a loose wheels stud out too my lug/wheel is stuck on now :tisk:

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Went to dyno car was ok on temp (still no mechanical temp gauge) Found out NEO TPS isnt like the Q45 and RED is power WHITE is signal, so never was it hooked up wrong on the dyno. This time around my TPS went into "idle mode" he adjusted a few minor things and I took it home. Car has blown front coils and need and alignment.

TURBONETICS TURBO DIED I took the car down the road did 2 pulls ~5500rpms and then no more boost.

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Got a HY35 from my friend to try out

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Shaft Play Vid of Turbonetics
http://instagram.com/p/bZDiFwuGSe/

Pretty upset with Raw Brokerage figured Id get more then 276 miles outta the dam thing. I pretty much drove it back and forth to my tuners. Didn't abuse this thing at all.

Hope I see better power and that it feels better.

Tim

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TimTurboZ
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Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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SO my Intercooler had a HOLE in it lol my luck

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Should be retuned/dyno'd next week!

More Updates to come

Tim

RRRRB
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Car: 98 RB powered S14
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If your car still uses a MAF the leak was probably effecting it pretty good..

Speed density cars arent as sensitive to boost leaks.. boost leaks can overspeed a turbo and cause failure... but i doubt that was your issue.. What did Ricky have to say about it?

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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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his reply was he could have me send the turbo to turbonetics to see what failed and the repair cost. probably really expensive I got the Hy35 for $100 and its under $300 to replace the whole center section so far it's ok. but yes I have a MAF and it was tuned with the intercooler having a hole. I thought perhaps that leak killed my turbonetics turbo I didn't research enough into it


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