I noticed the cheap light bar I installed didn't appear to throw light correctly, gives a hot spot down low and right instead of straight out. Turns out the lenses inside it were not aimed correctly. I installed a new rally light bar from Diode Dynamics while I took apart the cheap one to see if I can fix it. It seems aligned better now but I think I'll install it as a reverse light or on the work truck. I also changed out the cheap LED high beams to a more expensive and better aimed brand. It helps a bit but if I were to rely on the high beams alone I would spend the money for a better LED replacement, maybe Diode Dynamics SL1.
The Diode Dynamics SS18 seems built way better, and throws light further, but it's around $100 more expensive than my old light bar. 20% off black friday sale helped. Dollar to lumens the Amazon special is hard to beat if it's aimed correctly, as long as you're not expecting Baja Designs distance. I chose the combo pattern, but may purchase another long distance lens to see how much further I can get it to throw. You can also see the Comet ham radio antenna on the roof. It also draws twice and amperage so I'm right on the edge of what the high beam light wiring can support I think. If it gives me trouble I'll remove the stock high beam lights as they aren't doing that much anymore.
IMG_20181201_145711322_HDR by Chris Patterson, on Flickr
IMG_20181201_145732557_HDR by Chris Patterson, on FlickrNext up was ham radio install and APRS setup. There is no cell reception where the rally is located so only communication is amateur radio. The tablet is connected to the radio and transmits my location, speed, some other info, and allows text/sms and waypoint information to be passed back and forth. Also shows me location of other APRS stations via their GPS data. Later with winlink will allow me to send and receive email and stuff via radio, neat stuff. The one pic from eye view doesn't show it, but I can read the display from that weird angle. To mount it I removed the sunglasses holder and like magic the head unit was exactly the right height and shape to clip in using the holder button. So I can push the button and remove the head unit if I wanted to to prevent theft or something. I didn't plan it that way, just worked out. I can put the sunglasses holder back when I sell and nobody would know the difference.
IMG_20181215_163548151 by Chris Patterson, on Flickr
IMG_20181215_163623915 by Chris Patterson, on Flickr
IMG_20181215_163413373 by Chris Patterson, on Flickr
IMG_20181215_163450131 by Chris Patterson, on FlickrThe mount is from Pro Fit International, then a short ram arm and ram 7" tablet holder. I modified a micro USB charging hub so it simultaneously charges the tablet while communicating with the radio. Apparently none of the commercially available USB hubs that say they work with windows tablets actually do so, had to buy a few before I looked up the actual USB protocol and modify one. I didn't have the correct size screws to mount it but it works anyways, just not as pretty. Now I just need to route the dash cam wire out of the way and it'll look clean.
IMG_20181215_163642493 by Chris Patterson, on FlickrNext on the list is removing the running boards, they are rusted and in the way. Mud flaps. Suspension redo, bushings, springs, and shocks. Still needs new wheels and larger tires, 2 are leaking, maybe nail or maybe cracked wheels again. One of the exhaust sections broke off, so will take care of that.
Maybe turbo it or something, it's gutless, lol.
Someone asked about the type of roads I use it on, but not quite THAT fast:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/lqHQEV0tLLo?t=2m6s[/youtube]
[youtube]https://youtu.be/NMDI53gOFiQ?t=47s[/youtube]







