MY OIL IS SHOWING SIGNS OF DEATH

[LakaiOrDie]

I was pretty lame and skipped a oil change. normally every 2500 or less i go with new oil, but anyways i got lazy,up to a litre low a few times and well, lets just say one day my turbine wheel had fused to a free'd carbon deposit and jammed the wheel. (no real damage inside but it may relate)i had to change my turbo to make boost again lol.

Oil changed today, and there was a LOOOT of very very small particles in all of it. Just because they are there and the oil was totally sick, i feel like i f*** my engine up and need to change bearings right now. I am scared. the magnetic plug showed extra crap too, and this was all black...normally its grey and black, when i change the oil, like a light grey. And my engine is knocky, always has been too but this has been always there, its not the rod knock, its only knocky,at low rpm like drivin down the street at 60 in 5th, and then up to 3000 where it goes away.... it didnt get worse i dont think ahhhh idk im reallly paranoid

the internals and such are original so no doubt they are due for refreshing...but i just would appreciate some insight.
Also, if anyone knows where i can get ca18 clevites, i am having no such luck with finding them could use a bit of help there too.

[TheMAN]

what kind of crappy oil you used that made it turn into a lump of coal?
if you used quality synthetic oil, you could've gone 5000 miles easily (top off or not) without any issues

[LakaiOrDie]

I see, I dont exactly find anything you said helpful however I use 15w40 Castrol diesel and there are 150,000 km on the motor (I think) they have all been with mineral oil and it was brown not black (texhnixally)

even s*** oil would be sufficient to 5000 kilometers wouldn't it¿

[CokiRS13]

First of all you're not supposed to use 15w40 oil , and especially not a diesel type oil .
You need a 10w40 grade oil , and try to find something good , not some cheap oils.
Before you take out the old oil , drop in some motor flush fluid to clean the residue .
Install new oil filter and you're good to go .
Change the oil every 3.500 miles , or 6.000 km

[LakaiOrDie]

please explain why diesel oil In Yiur opinion is not suitable for a turbocharged gas engine
Ps just switched to 1040

[LakaiOrDie]

I appreciate the reply but don't assume just because I use a known brand and diesel grade I don't understand the simplicity in oil changes.... this engine needs cheap thick oil someone else correct me if I'm wrong

[LakaiOrDie]

Yiu might as well be saying "time to be smart to n get sr
"

[CokiRS13]

No , i won't say it's time for an SR swap .
The problem with that 15w40 oil is the fact it's just too thick , cars with hydraulic valve lifters don't use oil that thick . Second of all is that the engine technology has advanced compared to old style diesel engines , the tolerances are smaller , so oil that thick will not lubricate the engine as it should , plus the oil pump needs to take a lot more pressure.
Cheaper oil means that it will lose viscosity faster meaning poor lubrication of the engine internals. Higher quality oil can withstand more beating meaning more miles without losing viscosity .

[LakaiOrDie]

ah I never thought of it but it makes much more sense now to not use the diesel stuff... my brother skyline has always run this same stuff for like 7 summers now and that engine has been outstanding in how much abuse it has taken with out even a puff of smoke on startup or a drop on the ground after it has been sitting a whole 6 month winter...
anyway, the damage has been done, and I still don't know how I had let the oil go for so long, but long story short I had changed it this summer and used Lucas oil for the hell of it cause its been good to me in my other cars and that stuff is what shot half my oil thru my turbo that week and why not got low and dirty actually twice it did this and so I topped it up wit fresh oil and called it an oil change. if that makes sense... What's the majority of these metal bits likely to have been worn from? are the main and rod bearings a steel construction? this is like a f*** silt in the bottom of the jug I drained it out of and it reacts to the magnet I ran over it..... super damaging I'm sure

I'm gonna change oil again tomorrow and keep using the 1040 but it's kinda funny, I thought that 20w50 would be idea for use in the CA with respect to summer temperature, and this is what I've read on discussions about what oil is used amongst other users on the forum, one of them being Dee who I would take as a pretty reliable ca18 guru
anyway I am trying to say I don't know what to use now that it's getting cold and frost in the mornings it's a good long cold drive to warm up
is 5w40 to thin for a ca regardless of the cold weather I don't know I'm really looking for the best way to avoid any more damage cause I don't feel like changing bearings until summer at least, I already have pulled engine once this year for a clutch a bearing job is just what I need

sorry for the long reply haha

[LakaiOrDie]

I thought I knew oil and what kind to use and after seeing the s*** in my oil I would say not quite

[blownhemi]

15W-40 is a perfectly adequate oil for a wide range of temperatures, as per FSM.

[r34 gtr]

I usually run 10w40 Castrol in the winter, and 20w50 in the summer. My summer oil is much thicker than what you ran, and I have never had a problem with it. All my buddies run Shell Rotella T, which is essentially diesel oil, and they all swear by the stuff.

Oil that comes out of my e30 bmw (castrol 10w40, 5000mi/8000km oil change interval) is usually brown and awful, but that car has 350,000+ miles on it, so it seems to not be a problem.

Was the oil full of metal shavings? If not, I probably wouldn't sweat it.

[LakaiOrDie]

I usually run 10w40 Castrol in the winter, and 20w50 in the summer. My summer oil is much thicker than what you ran, and I have never had a problem with it. All my buddies run Shell Rotella T, which is essentially diesel oil, and they all swear by the stuff.

Oil that comes out of my e30 bmw (castrol 10w40, 5000mi/8000km oil change interval) is usually brown and awful, but that car has 350,000+ miles on it, so it seems to not be a problem.

Was the oil full of metal shavings? If not, I probably wouldn't sweat it.

more like glittering particles.

[LakaiOrDie]

what are the temps in winter where yu are..? just curous

[TheMAN]

ah I never thought of it but it makes much more sense now to not use the diesel stuff... my brother skyline has always run this same stuff for like 7 summers now and that engine has been outstanding in how much abuse it has taken with out even a puff of smoke on startup or a drop on the ground after it has been sitting a whole 6 month winter...
anyway, the damage has been done, and I still don't know how I had let the oil go for so long, but long story short I had changed it this summer and used Lucas oil for the hell of it cause its been good to me in my other cars and that stuff is what shot half my oil thru my turbo that week and why not got low and dirty actually twice it did this and so I topped it up wit fresh oil and called it an oil change. if that makes sense... What's the majority of these metal bits likely to have been worn from? are the main and rod bearings a steel construction? this is like a friggin silt in the bottom of the jug I drained it out of and it reacts to the magnet I ran over it..... super damaging I'm sure

I'm gonna change oil again tomorrow and keep using the 1040 but it's kinda funny, I thought that 20w50 would be idea for use in the CA with respect to summer temperature, and this is what I've read on discussions about what oil is used amongst other users on the forum, one of them being Dee who I would take as a pretty reliable ca18 guru
anyway I am trying to say I don't know what to use now that it's getting cold and frost in the mornings it's a good long cold drive to warm up
is 5w40 to thin for a ca regardless of the cold weather I don't know I'm really looking for the best way to avoid any more damage cause I don't feel like changing bearings until summer at least, I already have pulled engine once this year for a clutch a bearing job is just what I need

sorry for the long reply haha

that lucas crap may have a lot to do with it combined with the 15W40 goop
lucas has been proven to foam up the oil in the sump, causing cavitation... cavitation = loss of lubrication/oil pressure

furthermore, 15W40, 20W50, whatever thick as molasses diesel oils are made under old formulation techniques from decades ago... viscosity modifiers have and other oil blending technologies have improved as each decade passed and the only reasons why those oil still exist today are for old school diehards and fleet operators who don't want to use anything but what they know works or because "that's what the manual says to run".... those oils typically are used in engines that rarely get shut down... that's fine for in that case, but not in the case of a car engine which gets many start/stop cycles... those oils are so thick, that they don't flow worth **** on a cold start on any day of the year.... cold start oil pressures are sky high even on a 100 degree summer day and the oil is so thick, it can't pump well enough to the critical engine parts, accelerating wear... due to the additional work involved in pumping this oil, you also lose power and increase oil temperatures as the oil pump has to work harder to pump this oil around... also, many diesel oils are not certified for gas engines and therefore likely do not have the correct additive package to deal with the different kind of blowby gasses a gas engine gets and thus compromising the oil...

if your oil went to **** in less than 3000 miles, it is crap oil and is the wrong oil, plain and simple... don't get mad at me for telling you how it is because it's only your fault you made the wrong choice without proper research or asking beforehand

properly caring for an engine doesn't need "cheap thick oil"... that mindset got you off down the wrong road to begin with and doesn't even belong in any sentence unless you're driving some POS car you're planning on driving to the ground or selling it off to some poor SOB.... you want the thinnest oil for cold start but thick enough for operating temperatures so that it doesn't break down from heat or shear down from mechanical stresses... good oils that fit this description as examples are: Mobil1 0W40, Shell Rotella T6 5W40, Red Line 5W40... that particular Shell and Red Line oil are diesel oils but the Shell is also API SM certified, while the Red Line has no API certification but advertised to be formulated to be compatible with a gas or diesel engine... roughly following along the lines of API CF and SN... Red Line is a small company and they don't want to pay for the API certification costs, that's why it's not certified

with good oils like those, you can easily get 7500 miles out of it before needing a change... your turbo will also last much longer as the oil doesn't break down in the center housing and clogging up the oil galleries and tearing up the bearings

[LakaiOrDie]

everything you have just said regarding weight of oil is highly not recommended above - 20 Celsius by the fsm and where I live it only gets below that temperature about 2 weeks if the year.
Lucas oil does not foam oil I have never seen foam on the dipstick or in the drained oil after it is changed. never. I also know for a fact that it Raises oil pressure and in fact blows a half a liter or close to that into the intercooler at an idle over a 20 minute period. the s*** would literally fill my intercooler and hitting the highway resulted in some detonating and low oil
this is why I don't use the Lucas anymore AT ALL in my ca
in my honda many years ago I believe that the Lucas oil did very good for that engine. however
I think that I will continue to use the 10w40 for the time being and I also hot a oil pan heater 250w very nice and should be ok

[TheMAN]

it does not? have you actually looked at what it was doing under high RPM?
http://web.archive.org/web/201009261333 ... /lucas.htm

what did I say about oil technology having been IMPROVED from decade to decade? the FSM was written 25 years ago under the knowledge of vastly archaic oil technology... their recommendations were based on those oils that fail to perform properly under a wide temperature range... you can take what was recommended and pretty much throw it out the window because how oils are now formulated are much better and improved... what is made today under modern formulations and viscosities are just something completely unthinkable and unheard of 25 years ago... you go on ahead using the same type of multi-weight oils you've been using and what's recommended in the FSM... they're not too much improved from ones made 20 years ago as opposed to ones that have a very low cold viscosity and high warm viscosity, save for maybe a 10W30 oil as it's still the most popular car engine oil next to a 5W20...

if you don't change your ways and continue to use that cheap stuff, you're going to keep ruining turbos and engines
oil is not oil! not all of them work the same and therefore not even every one in the line up of one brand are good or work the same either... differences in formulations and the type of base stock used is what will either allow it to handle high stresses and temperature extremes, or turns to crap... you use a crappy oil, you ruin a high performance engine, plain and simple

[LakaiOrDie]

Ya but switching to synthetic it's going to dislodge deposits and possibly clog the oil feed line for the turbo... which is about a pin sized hole if you know what one I mean
doesn't that seem like a likely scenario and worth avoiding just by itself. not to mention leaks and Idk I want it to be a lasting engine until it's rebuilt and I can use synthetics without issues let me know your thoughts here

[TheMAN]

using an conventional "quick" oil flush is going to do a same thing.... running a high detergent dino or semi-synthetic oil is going to do the same thing
you can safely remove the crap running dino oil and autorx flush, then switch to synthetic afterwards

[LakaiOrDie]

which leads me to my next concern which is synthetic being too thin and slippery for an old worn ca even using thicker of a weight (I'd go thick a** rotella) the whole thing scares me hahaha ever since my last engine threw a rod and failed within minutes of having a hole in my block after wards

[TheMAN]

why would "too slippery" be a problem? you WANT it to be slippery, that's the whole point of lubrication!
synthetic is not "too thin"... a 0W40 flows the same as a 10W40 or 15W40 at operating temperature, generally speaking
what you want is a thin oil for your start ups to get oil as quickly as possible to the critical moving parts to lubricate them... a 0W40 or 5W40 can achieve that, a 10W40 or 15W40 can't

[LakaiOrDie]

theman, you definitely have me on one lol I went to get a bottle of synthetic oil today and of course I went redline. what do you use?. I'm not often the kind of person to let another opinion change my mind instantly on anything but the fact topic of synthetic lol it just frightened me and usually I over think the strength of a motor to small hazards blah blah anyway what do yu run in your ca

[TheMAN]

Redline 5W40 is good, but it's so expensive, you better be using it for as much miles as you can... really, the Rotella T6 5W40 works comparatively and is much cheaper... there's no discernible engine wear difference between them under a used oil analysis.. the Redline does have a lot more anti-wear additives though... a boat load a molybdenum! it also uses group V / esters base stock as opposed to the group III / hydrocracked base stock the Rotella T6 uses, which means the Redline can handle high heat better (it will not leave deposits/sludge/varnish when burned)... but you better be running your motor really hot (racing) before you can appreciate its benefits.... group III base stocks are plenty good these days and they are very comparable in performance compared to the group IV and group V base stocks

if you're concerned about sludge in the engine, you should run a cheap (but good) synthetic like Rotella T6 first... it has lots of detergents and it will clean out that crap... if you have issues with it getting dirty fast, then you just change it again until things start to get better.... it's better than wasting money on expensive boutique oils...

another way to do it is to stick to dino oil first (changing often), with some autorx flush... once you are done with the flushing, switch to any (GOOD) synthetic to your liking and try 5000 mile then 7500 mile oil changes

[LakaiOrDie]

No sludge and no major coking /deposits on anything Inside including the bottom end I've had a peek once when I resealed my oil pan but anyway I've got it flushed with Castrol 10w40 and will be switching it for the redline I got the other day it's a 10w40 and I had contemplated T6 as I read it's supposed to be excellent for anything turbo (diesel oil ftw) the only reason I didn't was the 5w cold rating. I would consider the advice you've given me on here solid (much appreciated) and reliable but what is an old motor with definite wear the bearing clearances must be more than anything a 5w oil is going to fill well and protect as good as something a bit thicker but when it's getting around the - 15 into the - 30 degree Celsius period I think it may help haha My car hates life

[Izento]

I'm personally using 0w40 mobile 1 with a canton racing oil filter. I was previously using either Royal Purple 5w30 or Mobile 1 5w30 with a Mobile 1 filter, but I've decided to switch to slightly thicker oil now that I have new bearings and a higher grade filter which flows more.

[LakaiOrDie]

you ran 5w30 before? did you run it hard and what was the condition of your engine

[Izento]

I did like 3 drift events on 5w30 with multiple outings of touge, never really gave me any major trouble. Then again, I did get rod knock 2 years later, but I don't think that's because of oil, must have been me beating on a motor that was never rebuilt. At the time of rod knock, it was about 78k miles. I don't daily drive my car, so it usually sees hard miles.

[float_6969]

I'm a fan of the Mobile 1 0w-40 as well. I run it in the Mazdaspeed Protege and was running it in the CA before the last rebuild and will have it in there again after the engine gets broken in.

[LakaiOrDie]

time will tell how my luck will turn out, this engines always been a champ to me so far
thanks for all the responses guys!