My "new" VH

[tmorgan4]

First off, I apologize for starting so many different topics lately. I've got so many questions about this swap and not enough answers. I picked up a VH45DE tonight that is in pieces and I'm trying to figure out how much I need to replace while it's open. I'm really trying not to replace things I don't need to since I'm on a tight budget right now but I will replace whatever needs to be.

I know the pictures aren't great, but they're from a cell phone. The engine was a in a little rougher condition than I expected but I think it will clean up well. The shortblock appears to have spent some time outside and has a little oxidation on the inside wall of each cylinder so I'm trying to decide if I need to have the cylinders bored oversize. If I get the cylinders bored, can I get oversized rings or do have to get new pistons?

The thing is in literally 1000 pieces. It will require a complete teardown since it had low oil pressure so I'm replacing all the bearings. The heads *appear* to be in good condition, but I'm not sure how I can make sure. The engine supposedly has 93k on it.

On to the pictures:

Box of misc. partsCrap in cylinders

I also got a can of about 100 bolts. Are there any more complete manuals than the FSM that specify which bolt size goes where? Haven't picked up a Haynes manual yet.

[redhat-z]

Its not as bad as you think. Make sure you disassemble the short block and have a machine shop spec the cylinders for out-of-round as well as the crack and rod journals. They have much more accurate devices than what you could buy at Harbor Freight for $10. These blocks are pretty stout, so you could most likely get away with a fresh hone and run with it. As for what bolt goes where, I'm sure there plenty of us on here that may be able to give some insight. Or just hunt and pick until you find the bolts that fit. The timing cover will be the worst. I would get a thread gauge and start separating you bolts by shank size and thread pitch. If you have to get over-sized pistons, they will cost you. As for piston rings, call Hastings Manufacturing in Hastings, Michigan directly.

[tmorgan4]

There are a few engine shops just up the street so I'll have to take it there and see what they think.

What is everyone doing as far as gaskets go? I know there are good and bad ones out there and hadnt' realized how expensive the good gaskets are. It looked like a full kit from Napa was around $450. Where else can I look? Almost none of the parts websites on the internet list anything for the VH.

[T45]

You can look up safetyautoparts.com and see which kit you want. They have complete engine kits available. Then call motor parts warehouse and get some prices. They are very reasonable and the quality is excellent.

Motor Parts WarehousePhoenix, AZ(800) 695-6589

[defrag010]

Rock also makes VH parts, but they are a little more expensive than the safety stuff.

[tmorgan4]

I can't seem to find any websites that list prices on any parts for these engines. Looks like I'll need to call some places Monday and come up with a fairly complete list of parts I should replace. Can anyone give me a list of parts I should be replacing other than a complete gasket set, possibly pistons, rings, timing guides (which ones??), rear main seal, etc.

[elwesso]

Outside of any internal work that needs to be done, I would do the following:

Replace all hoses and vacuum linesReplace knock sensorsreplace spark plugsreseal everything- front and rear main seal, front timing covers, valve covers

If you need to replace the guides, now's definitely the time to do so. You can just get the updated guides from infiniti of scottsdale, or you could find a busted 94 motor and swap them in, whatever works best for you... Generally recommended you replace the oil pump chain while doing the guides.

[tmorgan4]

The engine has come a long way from when I first got it. It looks a whole lot better now. I think so, anyway.



Rebuilt heads:



Phase 2 Deatschwerks injectors:



A big thanks goes out to everyone on this forum for all the help that I've received so far. Especially people like Elwesso, Richzilla, T45, and gs14racer. I've had thoughts lately of putting up a webpage that would include a ton of pictures of the engine as well as pretty thorough write-ups of the build that we could use in the future. It would definitely help people if they are planning on going from a Vg33 to a VH45.

All the updated timing guides and tensioners + headbolts are in the mail from Infiniti of Scottsdale. Once they get here Tuesday I can really start getting this thing put together. Now that I've spent almost 5k on the engine I'm ready to see it run.

One thing that I've been extremely thankful for lately is that Nissan seems to kee a lot of things consistent. I bought the engine in pieces so I was shorted some bolts and other parts as well as not knowing which size bolts go where. I pulled the bolts for the thermostat and oil pan off the VG I have sitting here and they are identical. This will be soo helpful it's not even funny.

Elwesso...any timeframe on that adapter yet? If there's no way you're going to have it done in the next few weeks I might have to try and come up with something.

[Tryingtogetoutofcars35]

Looks great man. my ca let go so i'm looking into this route. why has the rebuild cost close to 5k already? i thought it would be pretty cheap rebuilding one of these engines.

[Q45tech]

Why one buy a JDM engine for $1,000 and spends $2000 on guides, KS, hoses, seals, belts, gaskets and calls it a day.

Internals can last 300k if you change the oil every 90 days and never overheat.

[tmorgan4]

Internals can last 300k if you change the oil every 90 days and never overheat.

I'd considered going the JDM route but to be honest I just don't like the idea of junkyard engines. You mention that they will last for a long time if you don't overheat it....how do you know that the JDM you're buying hasn't been overheated? Obviously you can check for warped parts but not until you get the engine in your possesion. Here in Colorado there aren't any JDM resellers (obviously) so I'd need one shipped from one of the coasts.

Even though it has been an expensive project, it's probably been one of the best learning experiences of my life. I'm an 18 year old freshman going into Mechanical Engineering and I love this stuff. I'd never done anything more on an engine that install an intake or other bolt on stuff until now. I've learned so much about this engine and engines in general in the last few months in makes this entirely worth it.

And I can be assured that this should be a kick *** engine by the time it's finished!!!!

Hey Q45tech....Can you offer any recommendations as far as break-in on this "new" engine? I've obviously gotten a ton of different opinions everywhere I asked but nobody seems to know this engine better than you. It sounds like taking it gentle is a bad idea and that I really just need to give it some throttle and get the RPMs up during the break in. I'd be interested to hear what you have to say.

[tmorgan4]

The price is one of the deceiving points of this engine. Going into this project, I didn't plan on spending near this much. Not even close.

The engines are cheap to pick up which helps, however they ARE NOT cheap to rebuild. This is what many people don't mention or seem to understand. Hell, you'll spend half the price of the engine on knock sensors! I've replaced nearly ever part in the engine that will ever need to be replaced. When I'm done here in a couple weeks I'd I can go back and add everything up to show where the costs came from.

Another problem is that I've been paying someone to do some of the more difficult work. I paid to have the shortblock assembled and heads rebuilt, which ran me about $700 together. Hell, the bill at the machine shop earlier this week was $1020!!!!