My NA-TT swap/build

[aviatorwes]

Whats up all?! Ive been on the forums for a little while mostly watching and posting occasionally. Ive been working on a build for a little while and I thought some of you would be interested in seeing some pix and info. From what you cant see in my avatar already I have a 1992 2+0 NA body that I did a TT swap and build to. here are just a few things I have done as it would take me the majority of the day to list and explain every mod done to this vehicle. Some mods are as follows:

Engine:
1992 vg30dett
Turbos- Garrett GT28RS (disco potato)
Crank- machined and balanced to 12k rpm
Eagle H-beam rods
Weisco forged pistons
Cometic head gaskets
.040 over
ported heads
ARP head studs
ARP mains
Race crank scaper
ported oil pump
OEM cams
Ramey Z Heavy Duty Idler Studs
There are many more mods but these are just a few

Transmission/Drive-train:
OEM 5 speed trans
Clutch- Southbend DXD FE Stage 5
Z1 Premium Short Throw Shifter
Z Speed Solid Shifter Support Brace
Driveshaft- Z1 1-Piece Platinum
Diff- Cusco LSD

Fuel Delivery:
Rail: Win Factory top feed fuel rail
Injectors: Bosch 870cc
SS braided fuel lines
Pump: OEM TT

The motor just before going in








Dropping it in


Here's what it looks like now

[300ZXttZMAN]

Nice... What you doing next?

[aviatorwes]

Thanks man. Im about to order the NIStune ecu so I can get it tuned and start breaking it in.

[frag-me]

Looking clean. Make sure to keep the updates :p

[aviatorwes]

Oh you bet man. Theres always something going on with this car so Ill keep the updates coming.

[DanDrath]

looks good. That electric fan setup will definitely not cool your car down enough

[aviatorwes]

Thats one of the things Im a little worried about with this build man. I have a electric water pump that moves alot more CFM's than the stock one but we'll see what happenes. I may have to play around with different setups.

[vulcanrush]

i'd swap out those ic's too, for a pair of aspec massives to take advantage of your great turbos.
they look like cxracing?

[marty1mc]

When they machined the crank, did they cyro treat it?

[DCaff300ZX]

Looks good man, I like the red/black color combo!

[aviatorwes]

Thanks for the replies all! I welcome positive and negative criticism all the same. Yes they cryo treated the crack when they balanced it. My goal was to make the bottom end as bullet proof as possible. I dont look forward to tearing this thing back down for something stupid. Thanks DCaff300ZX! I plan on doing the paint the same combo as the engine.

[raremotive]

Thanks for the replies all! I welcome positive and negative criticism all the same. Yes they cryo treated the crack when they balanced it. My goal was to make the bottom end as bullet proof as possible. I dont look forward to tearing this thing back down for something stupid. Thanks DCaff300ZX! I plan on doing the paint the same combo as the engine.

Looks clean. And attention to detail.

Pretty sure a lot has to fail before the crank to fail. The cyro treatment is risky because it can mess with the tolerances on the part. For what it's worth. Not much improvement. The only weakness for the z32 crankshaft is the bolted on counterweight (not that you should panic about it either, you are not reving mile high all day hard).

And just curious, what's your break in schedule/routine/plan?

[aviatorwes]

Thanks man. I broke the motor in for about 30 minutes while on jack stands. Ive been driving it in the parking lot trying to break it in under a load. Its not tuned so I haven't gotten it above 2500 rpm and definitely kept it out of boost. I plan on driving it for around 3k miles until i start to stretch her legs out once its tuned. If anyone else has any better ideas please feel free to share them!

[raremotive]

http://raremotive.com/2010/07/understan ... ring-seal/

[marty1mc]

Thanks for the replies all! I welcome positive and negative criticism all the same. Yes they cryo treated the crack when they balanced it. My goal was to make the bottom end as bullet proof as possible. I dont look forward to tearing this thing back down for something stupid. Thanks DCaff300ZX! I plan on doing the paint the same combo as the engine.

Good deal. I think you have a well thought out build and a really nice setup. The only thing I would keep an eye on is cooling. FMIC's tend to make the block air and make the motor run hotter. Also, the electric fan setup can add to this. You may want to consider making some ducts to redirect air from your SMIC location to the radiator to aid in cooling.

Pretty sure a lot has to fail before the crank to fail. The cyro treatment is risky because it can mess with the tolerances on the part. For what it's worth. Not much improvement. The only weakness for the z32 crankshaft is the bolted on counterweight (not that you should panic about it either, you are not reving mile high all day hard).

I don't necessarily agree cyro processing is risky or not much improvement. I think it's a lot like global warming, no proven theories, but the evidence is mounting. It has been proven on things like brake rotors for sometime. Nissan race developed this motor and they cyro treated the crank. Pretty cool when you think about it. It's just now being used widely, but they did this over 20 yrs ago. As far as tolerances changing, it's a mixed bag. Non cyro treated blocks tend to change. Many do an initial grind, then cyro treat, regrind. For a crank that has been treated previously, I don't think there is any concern. I am also not certain it needs to be done a second time either. But, race teams all over are doing it now because it works, everything from blocks, valve springs, pistons, rods and cranks. Even NASA is now doing it even though they published a paper a few years ago saying the improvement was marginal.

[aviatorwes]

http://raremotive.com/2010/07/understan ... ring-seal/

Hey thanks for the link man! That's a little different than what Ive read being told. Ive been considering doing something about getting more air back there. I knew that the electric fan set-up was not going to move near as many CFM of air as the OEM belt driven one. Thats the best alternative though considering the electric water pump. Now I know about The front splitter and underbody plate from driven authority. I have heard mixed reviews about those guys tho. Thanks for the replies guys and keep letting me know what you think.

[Ace2cool]

Come on, Wes! You need to post an update on here! Upload some pics and videos. (Yeah everybody, you heard me. Videos.)

[aviatorwes]

Hey whats up everyone. Its been a long time since I posted on here but thought I would update you all on my build for anyone who is interested. I am basically ready for the dyno tune. I am almost done wiring the gauges and the rest of the electrical stuff. I also have no monies right now either so that makes some things a little difficult. My alternator burned out on me with the car at idle a while back ago and I'm thinking I need a higher Amp alternator. Ace, in all of his knowledge and wisdom, said the Infiniti I30 Alt. will work. Is anyone here running one? Ill post some more pix/vids as soon as I get them off my phone.

[Ace2cool]

Dude, I told you it was the alternator! You took it to get tested or what?

[aviatorwes]

No I just tested it for voltage with my voltmeter and it wasn't putting out anything. You were right as usual.