My N320's Behaviour

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Hi

My beast N320 is now officially road registered and under my name.

I need to get wheel alignment as I replaced the tie rod end and drag link.

1st time to drive it, and I noticed some issues

hard steering - what may be causing this?

my steering wheel is way off the spoke is 90 degrees off (might be when I took it off before to fix the horn)

Gearbox and engine is very new to me, very loud when you drive not sure what the right term is I'll expect what I feel about it....

it feels & sounds like its time to shift to higher gear but when you do it feels like its not supposed to be on that gear like changing gears to early.

4th gear is the main issue I think I'm going above 30mph and change it to 4th gear and it will slow down and feels like i have to downshift, if I do revs loud like you need 4th gear... you know what I mean?

also on 4th gear travelling above 35mph the engine sounds like a louder than pinging sound not sure what it is yet.

Post by **matti** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Thats great news mate, Another 320 on the road. When you drive into your driveway next make sure the car is straight when you stop. (ie have the wheels straight before you stop) This will ensure there are no turning pressures on the front wheels. Now remove your steering wheel taking caution not to turn the wheel when you're undoing the nut. Slide the steering wheel back on where it should be when traveling straight and lock her up. Did it pass rego with the make shift horn button? Have you checked the oil level in the gearbox. The bloke that sold me mine said it didn't leak oil. This was due to no oil being in the box cause it all poured out of the lever seals. Check your points and dizzy cap. If your points or dizzy cap are worn they can operate normally until under load causing the spark to break down. Also check your valve clearances as too large a gap will cause top end pinging. Does the ute blow smoke when under load or doing high revs? Again Congratulations!

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Thanks mate! after a long time of fixing her up...mostly chasing parts

I'll try re-installing the steering wheel again.

It passed rego with a make up horn switch button

How do you check oil in the gearbox? I noticed that there's a slow leak falling right bellow the gearbox case that connects to the engine? seal/gasket maybe worn out?

Do you undo the levelling nut on the side and stick your finger in there? whats the best oil to use?

Will double check the points and dizzy tomorrow, are these available at a local parts store?

The ute doesnt seem to blow any smoke when I drive it hard or on higher gear or revving high.

Thanks again but unfortunately I will be selling the ute, will post a new thread here or in Carsales.com.au or even fleabay

Cheers

Post by **brunop** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Hi razor again. Your points to use in the datto are mini leyland points which are the same. The cap isn't a easy item to get & l should know because it took two years to find one at a swap meet (old stock) included a stocking to go over the coil in that deal. The coil stocking was used in colder areas to stop the coil getting damp & there was one for the bakalite fuse box but l havent got one yet? Bugger! l hope at this moment. Valves in our dattos do get burnt & need att & fix mine twice. Gearbox is low geared & top speed only is 70 mph in these old girls & yes they are noisey. Steering sounds to be low in oil, look in the bolt with the lock screw on it (Do you undo the levelling nut on the side and stick your finger in there? Your quote razor, Ow....) Yes replace the seal will fix the problem due to what l read in my datto books. Yes l can scan the page when l get time. Also Razor l have a switch on the dash for the horn not in the steering wheel as orig & l have extra switch for the 60s Alfa- Romeo air horns l have on my ute. Yehar. Bruns

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

any leyland mini model? there's a few model early and late ones, Clubman, S, SS, LS, GT, K, Sunshine

I was watching one of the distributor cap in ebay and i forgot to bid sold for $10

is there a special fluid for steering? and gearbox oil?

Post by **matti** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

conventional gearbox oil is fine. If you have a leak from the bell housing, do you know what type of oil it is? ie gearbox or engine oil. My ute has a rubber plug in the gearbox cover (floor pan in the trans tunnel) directly beneath this rubber plug is a dip stick for the gearbox oil level. The seals in the side of my gearbox have been replaced with new seals from the bearing shop. They aren't original but they are effective.

cheers

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

I bought 80w Castrol Gearbox Oil, I'm not sure the difference from engine oil and gearbox oil, i know from searching the net that its thicker obviously from "80w" thickness

the oil leaking to me is like engine oil dark (old) thin liquidy right on the centre of the bellhousing

I had a quick look at the gearbox today but couldnt find the filler plug, thought its just on the side of the housing.

Also what size is the bolt for the filler plug for the steering gear? might check and fill it up as well

Post by **matti** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

If it's engine oil it means doing the rear crank seal which is a graphite rope seal. World of hurt if you ask me! The gear box dip stick in my ute is accessible through the floor pan and is on the top of the gear box not the side. I can take a pic tomorrow if you want as my box is out at the moment. Your right about the oils, the oil thickness is called viscosity and all they do is add different additives to change the temperature ratings. I dont know what size the bolt is on the steering I'll have a look later if you are still having trouble.

cheers

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

I'll clean up the gearbox area so I can determine where the leak is coming from and maybe take photos

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

I just saw an ad in Ebay about the contact points that 320 can use Bosch GH200 ones, which is available in any auto spares shop

About the dizzy cap anyone knows where I can get one? I missed out in ebay for NOS

Post by **71-521** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

look here:

http://www.olddatsunpickuplovers.com/forum21/238.html

Tana has these from time to time...[url=mailto:[email protected]] [/url]

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

too bad I'm in australia...postage will take a while

would like to find out 1st if I can get one locally

Post by **brunop** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Razor how bad is your dissy cap? Mine not the greatest looking dissy cap but l give a clean now & then & works fine......! Termals on my cap get white but till works well. Bruns :?

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

I havent even tried taking it off yet...the only time I get to work on the car is sundays.

From outisde it looks good and clean, might clean the inside and buy new contact points, will check the spark plugs as well.

So do you fill up oil in the steering gear buy undoing the filler plug the one with star shape built-in on the bolt?

Also I had a look at the manual and matti is right there's supposed to have a dipstick right on top of the gearbox, so I'm guessing there would be a plate or something inside the cabin floor to get access to the dipstick. And do you fill up oil from this dipstick hole?

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

the oil leak is definitely engine oil dripping down the centre of the gearbox as I checked the gearbox oil and its empty!!!...or nearly empty as the dipstick is very dry and clean no traces of oil....hmmmm

Anyway filled her up with nice new oil.

still looking where the oil leak is coming from...

Post by **matti** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Sorry, but does this mean your gearbox oil is leaking or your engine oil?

cheers

Post by **matti** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

If you want a quick fix. Get a paddle pop stick and rap some fine wet and dry around it. eg: 1000 or 1200. place this between your breaker points and rub back and forth gently. It's a little crude but for a back yard job it works well. The correct procedure requires removing your breaker points and using an oiled stone. There is a product which comes in an aerosol can called "CRC 2-26" You can clean your dizzy cap, rotor button and points then give it all a spray with the crc 2-26. Give it a quick wipe over with a rag and you should get a noticeable difference in the spark at the plugs as well as protecting the parts you cleaned.

cheers

Post by **brunop** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Hi Guys.

Razor is or could be your gearbox weeping at the back seal (tail shart end). The seal (Age) has lets go & has dry out & drained all the oil. To get a seal isn't a proplem because you can it by size of the seal to fix the proplem & a modern seal will work properly & in some cases better than original seal. The other place it would have leaked a casket three parts along the gearbox which may be the other place leaking.

Sparks, Replace them with champion spark plugs (model of plug, l can't remember at this moment on the computer, but they are same as GH sigma & holden Red six plugs) & it will run a hell alot better. The points are early mini type but take your point with you when you go to local parts shop.

Gearbox cover, There is a cover under the floor coverings hold by 6, 10mm bolts & dip stick is there. but the gearbox is still going to be noisey razor. Bruns

Post by **brunop** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Hey guys do you go to other sites on our utes. Why because l have found a new site l didn't know about. MANXSR.COM

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

according to the service manual to use NGK B6E 14mm thread 0.6-0.8mm Gap

I would like to take the distributor contact point off but it seems like its gonna be hard and difficult as the gear control rod is in the way

Might take a photo of what I'm talking about

brunop - do you have any tricks to taking the contact points off to make my life easier?

The contacts on the distributor cap is worn out too and just realised that it will be near impossible to find one here in australia.

520 & 521 are using the same distributor cap right? how about 620s?

Post by **brunop** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Hi Folks,

Razor. The dizzy is hard to get to, but take your time (Must take your time or you'll go nuts) to pulling it apart & l have pulled the dizzy apart twice & not easy with that gear controls in the bloody way. Plugs- Ngk B6e plugs are correct for the 320 engine, but don't last along as the champion plugs? 520 & 620 dizzys are different l thing but not shore on that razor! Someone out there who knows more .........?

Razor. l could try & find dizzy cap for you, but it would take me time to find one at auto swap meets & l found mine due to a old datsun dealer being AT the ballarat (super southern) swap meet victoria & He is there every year now. But you are selling the ute soon & time isn't on your list & it may take me months to find one for you razor. l can only help so much! The tip here is look for the PERSON/s who owned the dealership that sold our datsun vehicles in our areas & they may not be many around any more, my original dealer is still around but has no stock, remember we have a ute with forty or more years of miles under it's tyres? l was just looking thought a magzine called Restored Cars. THE bible of persons who restore vehicles of all types & l found in it's pages in your state razor (& you to Matti) a company called; A101 vehicle systems, Vinage & Classic new & S\H car parts, 42 merton st, jimboomba, Qld, 4280. phone (07) 32569877 may have something or know where to find one for you razor. There is a Swap meet in this area to as follow; 11th Jimboomba Autoexravaganza & Swap, 27 august 2006, details phone (07) 3341 9618 or (07) 5537 9445 & have look to see whats about in parts & restored car mag has a swap meet page for all states of aussie & l have bought this mag since 1973 when it started & it's in most newsagents & is sold overseas too. If you need me to keep a eye some parts for you contact me & Keep cruzin guys with Yr Dattos. Bruns

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

brunop thanks for the reply and info

I actually bought a dizzy cap and rotor off Ebay, just waiting for it to get delivered to my doorstep.

So its possible to replace the contact points without taking the dizzy off or the control rod/shaft?

its a pain in the a** job!!!

Brunop, do you know how to adjust the ignition timing? i've got a timing gun just dont know how you move the dizzy...

Cheers

Post by **71-521** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

As Far as I know, the 521 and 620 dizzy's were different in the US but if I remember right the J series motors were available in both of them on your side of the pond...

J-series and L-series dizzy's are much different.

Post by **matti** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

If you down load the manual it's all there on about four pages. (Good Detail) However all the old engines are similar with timing set ups. Basic terms: Back off the bolt(s) that hold the dizzy to the engine( just enough so you can rotate the whole dizzy by hand). Clip your timing light onto number 1 ignition lead. Aim the timing light at the crank pully so when the light flashes you can see the marks on the crank and the timing pointer on the timing case. You will need the engine running at idol while you are looking for the timing marks. You may have to clean the crank pully if the timing marks aren't visible. You need to set the timing to 15 deg BTDC (before top dead centre) This is done by rotating the dizzy clock wise or counter clockwise. A bit of trial and error is involved if you're doing it by yourself. Once you have the timing set to 15deg BTDC just tighten up the bolts at the base of the dizzy and you're done. When you're advancing the dizzy you should hear the engine rev up. A lot of blokes will tune by ear which is advancing the dizzy until you hear the revs start backing off. Turn the dizzy back a touch until the revs come up again. What this will do is give more of a top end response but it will also bog down the bottom end and generally back fire when backing off the acceleration sharply. In other words play around with these ideas until you're happy with how it's running.

Good luck!

Post by **matti** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

71-521, Do you know if the J series dizzie can be changed with an A series dizzie? Curiosity has almost lead me to trying but if someone else already knows it will save me the effort.

cheers

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

I know how to adjust timing, and have done it a lot of times but I tried it on my 320 and the dizzy body wont move at all after undoing two bolts that are attached on the plate to the engine block.

What is that long bolt across the two bolts on side of the plate? what does it do? does it lock the distributor? tried undoing that and does nothing... still cant move the dizzy body.

I got this new distributor cap and I think its the other model with no screws inside for the plugs. will take photos shortly.

Post by **71-521** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

slight tapping carefully with a light hammer should do it after loosening the nuts...

Post by **odpl_Razor** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

I posted earlier and said exact same thing....

under tune-up topic

cheers

Post by **brunop** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Hi ALL

Matti, the A-series dizzy has a taller cap on the dizzy. l just had a look on my datto b1200 ute. Razor you don't have to take the full dizzy out. But you may take the lever off, if you want to. l didn't! l just layed on the guard & taken me time taken out the points & replace them.

Post by **brunop** » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

;)

hi all Go to 1200.com & see the photos on a worked bluebird utes like ours in the off topic section (called; Looked at this site) of the topic page....! Have laugh at these two utes.

My N320's Behaviour

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