My motor just blew! Need advice and help!

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schanne
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:39 pm
Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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So I was heading home from orlando after paying a ticket and heard a little rattling sound. I started to slow down and POP goes the weasel. I can hear the chunks of metal moving around a split second before it did blow. Then a ugly cloud of smoke to follow. Pulled over to the shoulder and watched the smoke and oil come from the bottom of the block. I need your help nico.

Quick history of motor: The motor was rebuilt by a back yard mechanic with new bearings. He never replaced the studs with new ones. I didn't know they had to be replaced. So the car drove fine after the rebuild but never boosted. The cam timing was off a tooth and had that fixed by some good people at Carisma. Car has been on the road for two weeks with no problems untill today. Now I had royal purple in there, but the car was running super rich prior to having the timing fixed. I didn't change the oil yet, I was going to do that today when I got home. I only ran that oil for less than 2k miles but it had some gas in it.

Questions: Did I ruin my motor because of the gassy mixed oil? Did this happen because of not replacing the head/main bolts? This motor didn't have many miles on it at all!

I am going to take out the turbo/mani and things in that area to get some pictures, but I can see the big f-ing hole on the side of my block. I will be updating this thread as I go along with pictures and what not. Why the hell did this happen? What is it normally that make's this happen?

And yes I cryed a little

Edit- Its a stock motor with your normal bolt-ons
Modified by schanne at 12:26 PM 11/3/2008


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schanne
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Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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garagelu
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2005 12:50 pm
Car: 1995 240sx w/ sr

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your "backyard" mechnic probably did not balance the whole assembly. What did the rebuild involve? Just bearings or what else? pistons, rods, etc?

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240life
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX S13 Coupe SR20DET blacktop
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I am blameing the rod bolts if they were re-used they are a common weak point, gas in the oil is never good though

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schanne
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Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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Just the bearings were replaced.

I don't think he balanced anything other than the money I gave him. What would need to be balanced other than the crank shaft?

So you blame the rod bolts? What about the oil being gassy, did that just help it or could that of caused this mess?

Now I know its hard to tell now, but what internals are going to be destroyed? Pistons, rods, etc. I would like to know so I can start making a list. Thanks for the help so far guys! Please keep giving your input nico as I am not motor savy.

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240life
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your rods, crank, pistons, flywheel and all bolts should be balanced with all bolts, also your harmonic balancer with key way locks and bolt as a unit. I think the gas helped, but I also see Sr's running pig rich all the time....as far as damage you might be better off buying another engine replacing the gaskets, bearings, rings, and oem rod and head bolts.

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schanne
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Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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So would I be able to reuse my head and just rebuild with new rods, pistons, crank, arp bolts all around...? Obviously buying a new short block.

Or like you said, just buy another motor and rebuild that one? Unfortunatly this car was my DD. So I need a quick turn around for the cheapest. What would I expect to pay for just the S13 head/block/internals?

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homeslicej2
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:46 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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schanne wrote:So I need a quick turn around for the cheapest.
And what did this get you the last time? don't skimp on the motor.

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schanne
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Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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Lol, I thaught someone would pick up on that. I'm just trying to find out what would cost me the least fixing it the right way. Wether it's getting a new motor and parting mine out, or just rebuild and get a new block... I knew someone would say that tho

I learned my lesson! Don't trust a friends friend that works on cars and says they know there shyt!

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schanne
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Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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What route do you guys think I should take?

nzmoman
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Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 2:27 pm
Car: 240sx 2 of em' and always lookin for more

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find another long block and get it in the car. That will be the cheapest and fastest way to get the car going. You can find them for 500-1500 depending on the seller and the condition of the block. Did you buy this motor from the backyard mechanic or did you take it to him after you bought it? Either way...don't do that again.


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240life
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX S13 Coupe SR20DET blacktop
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stock rods are inexpensive but will take a while to get you could reuse your top end buy a macineable block for about 500 and internals for about 1000 (internals being arp,eagle,cp,acl,nissan gasket set) the machine and balance would be around 300 so you are looking at about 1800 if you do it yourself, or you could get a new (used) motor for about the same from one of the suppliers on this site.

SeanC
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Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 2:35 pm
Car: 1993 240sx SE

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gas in oil breaks it down VERY quickly and will cause a lack of lubrication causing bearings to get very hot and start breaking stuff.

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schanne
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Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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SeanC wrote:gas in oil breaks it down VERY quickly and will cause a lack of lubrication causing bearings to get very hot and start breaking stuff.
Thats why I was thinking it was the oil. Royal purple is real thin anyway and I know it's good oil but with a little gas in it....Well

I purchased the motor from JDM Addiction in Ocala, Fl and would never do business with them again. My "backyard mechanic" picked the motor up for me and did the swap. Upon startup, there was metal shavings in the filter after 2 or 3 oil changes... So he rebuilt it. The motor co did replace the bearings for me. So I asked this guy 1000x times what is everything we need to replace? Never did he say anything about new rod/main/ect blots. I did some research but never found out about that.

I'll start looking for the block with internals and hope to find a good deal on a GOOD condition one. It would be nice to find one like you guys are saying with all the upgrades, save a little more for a 2871r 64.

Oh and no I would never trust a friend of a friend that works out of his house unless he drives in D1 or something of that nature. I have learned to do most things myself with a another hand at times, but for tedious things it goes to carisma for now. (Enjuku told me to trust them)
Modified by schanne at 7:43 PM 11/4/2008

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david200095367
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Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:57 am
Car: 91 fastback 93 coupe w/s14 sr20det 98 s14 kouki

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what i think happened was a rod bolt came loose or broke from being old or overtighten and the rod or rod cap hit the side of the engine causing it to blow through the block. Maybe the gas played a small part but i doubt that. If you put new bearings in there most likely you would have needed a crank polish or shave. I think theres a company on zilvia classifieds selling the sr longblock for like $900. you might want to check them out.

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schanne
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Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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^^ Cool gonna go check that out right now!

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schanne
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:39 pm
Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

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HOLY SHYT! The little hole I found first was nothong compared to this!


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