My mad 'skillz' at work - or - I'm an idiot

[RyanH]

Just thought I'd post some pictures of the aftermath of my attempt to install the FSTB from Jeff. Thanks for that, by the way!

Anyway, here's the 'carnage:'

The driver's side nuts came right off, and as you can see the passenger side had some issues. And before anyone asks, I was NOT trying to turn the nuts the wrong way (i.e. tighten them)!

[superuber]

Well, I usually don't bust on weekenders but you asked for it!Don't tell me you used a standard socket instead of metric?Or maybe you used vise grips? How did you strip the nut?I know...you should have just used your torch! Ah rookies!

[maxnix]

Front suspension rehabilitation a must for effective FSTB performance.

Yours is next!


Modified by maxnix at 6:25 PM 3/21/2007

[RyanH]

Yeah, front suspension rehab is on my list of things to get done this summer, now I get to do it sooner. Yay for me and my checking account.

And you're not supposed to use vice grips to get nuts off?! Damn it all...

That rounded nut is the result of using the correct size socket, I have no idea how it happened. The driver's side came off so nicely. Why can't anything ever go smoothly for me?

[StarPD]

Yeah, front suspension rehab is on my list of things to get done this summer, now I get to do it sooner. Yay for me and my checking account.

And you're not supposed to use vice grips to get nuts off?! Damn it all...

That rounded nut is the result of using the correct size socket, I have no idea how it happened. The driver's side came off so nicely. Why can't anything ever go smoothly for me?

Looks to me like you sheared the bolt clean off on one side.Or am I seeing it wrong?

[superuber]

Fron suspension rehabilitation a must for effective sway bar performance.

Yours is next!

...and for goodness sake before you strip another nut chuck your taiwanese Harbor Frieght tool set and buy American.....Snap-on, Mac, Matco etc...etc....etc

[RyanH]

Looks to me like you sheared the bolt clean off on one side.Or am I seeing it wrong?

Oh no, you are seeing it correctly. The stud snapped in half on one the rear one.

I was using tools from work, stuff my grandfather bought when he was still running the company, its mostly all Snap-On stuff. This was the one time I DIDN'T use my cheapo crap set from Pep-Boys!

[superuber]

This was the one time I DIDN'T use my cheapo crap set from Pep-Boys!

Well I guess it's just not your week! Maybe Jesda could come out and help, he's the plenum king! His wounds should be skinned over by now!

[Jesda]

I was lucky. Mine were pretty clean and very easy to remove. Lesson for everyone... spray with anti-seize!

[ScottJackson]

eh, just snap that one off too and weld it in place. Then weld the strut tower brace bracket on there.

[louiegz]

Why can't anything ever go smoothly for me?

I know where you coming from brotha. Same stupid crap happens to me every time I try to do something. Lucky for me I did mine after my struts were done so I guess the nuts were unstuck. I used a metric box wrench.

[statichead2k]

I know hind sight is 20/20 and all--believe me I have done worse to a car--but a little penetrating oil would have worked wonders in this case. A dollop of PB blaster, then to the TV for Muscle Car(love that Lou) and a beer, then back out the the garage and the little turkey would have come off with just a little elbow grease.

It may be counter intuitive, but an impact gun might have worked as well. The jolts my have broken up the rust and corrosion. I use my new favorite tool(18v 1/2" cordless impact) anywhere it will fit.

In AZ the only time I see bolts that will do that are related to exhaust. I found the PB blaster plus 1/2 hour TV trick works well as I am not a patient man--some sort of distraction is the key.

I know it is a little late for this time, but next time around. :

[Raxephon]

Looks a lot like the nut had been removed before and when it was replaced it ended up being cross-threaded.

[RyanH]

It may be counter intuitive, but an impact gun might have worked as well. The jolts my have broken up the rust and corrosion. I use my new favorite tool(18v 1/2" cordless impact) anywhere it will fit.

I was at the shop, I could have just opened the big roll up door, flipped one of the compressors on and got out the air tools, but I figured it was a quick 10 minute job. But yeah, next time its penetrating oil, some chill time, then go to work on things.

[Skibane]

You do know that Nissan followed Chrysler's lead in using left-hand threads on the passenger side, right?

[bullittandy]

Something wierd is going on with that side. One side comes off easy and the other, strips a nut and BREAKS a stud!! It doesn't look corroded either.

My guess-that side of your car is haunted.

[StarPD]

I know hind sight is 20/20 and all--believe me I have done worse to a car--but a little penetrating oil would have worked wonders in this case. A dollop of PB blaster, then to the TV for Muscle Car(love that Lou) and a beer, then back out the the garage and the little turkey would have come off with just a little elbow grease.

It may be counter intuitive, but an impact gun might have worked as well. The jolts my have broken up the rust and corrosion. I use my new favorite tool(18v 1/2" cordless impact) anywhere it will fit.

In AZ the only time I see bolts that will do that are related to exhaust. I found the PB blaster plus 1/2 hour TV trick works well as I am not a patient man--some sort of distraction is the key.

I know it is a little late for this time, but next time around. :

Impact wrenches are invaluable when working on suspension and exhaust systems. For those of us who can't justify or afford an impact wrench, the penetrating oil trick works wonders. Placing a sacrifical nut on the fastener and rapidly striking it what a hammer can often work too. The vibrations from the imacts allows the penetrating oil to migrate into the microscopic nooks and crannies where corrosion resides. Care must be taken however to avoid damaging the threads the sacrificial nut is fastened to. Waiting a while and repeating the process usually loosens the most stubborn of fasteners. If that fails, the old heat trick usually does it. Unfortunately, putting a torch near paintwork or rubber bushings/o-rings/grommets, etc is a last resort.

Another trick is to use what is called a "nut-splitter". I wouldn't be without one. And yet one more trick is to drill a hole in the center of the offending bolt all the way through. This doesn't always work, but sometimes is effective, especially if the bolt is actually a stud in a blind hole.

When facing a stuck fastener, I try to remember that admonition to "work smarter, not harder".

[FarFetched]

Well, been there done that! Next time you'll know to use nut buster (BUSTER) before applying a wrench to it!Good luck!Cheers!