My M56x is leaking PS fluid

[Ilya]

So, I've had a mysterious disappearance of PS fluid for a while now but never noticed any wet spots, etc.

While changing the oil yesterday in preparation for my long drive from NY to FL (moving to Tampa in less than 10 days), I finally noticed that the driver side bellow (?) boot or tie rod boot was dripping in PS.

I ended up ordering since the car has 130kmi on it and none of it has ever been changed to my knowledge.

- Both outer tie rod ends
- Both front stabilizer links
- Both rear stabilizer links
- 2 Bellow Kits (assuming each kit is one boot)

However, I'm now finding out that the boot isn't actually the issue...it's a seal in the rack and pinion? Should I bother with any of this or should I just try my hand at using one of those stop leak bottles from the parts store (I have one but haven't used it).

Kicker is I JUST had Firestone do an alignment (first time in 3 years) and they made no mention of the leaking boot...so either they suck (likely) or it wasn't leaking when it was there (6 days ago - unlikely).

[VStar650CL]

Yah, that's a bad end seal on the rack. It's an invisible leak until enough fluid builds up in the boot to pop it.

[Ilya]

Yah, that's a bad end seal on the rack. It's an invisible leak until enough fluid builds up in the boot to pop it.

Okay. So stop gap measure is to do some stop leak? If it doesn't help, than a bad rack is still bad. If it works, then I buy myself some time (hopefully a lot).

If that is the case, I likely won't do the tie rods or bellow kits until the time comes to replace the rack, but will still do the stabilizer links since those are 10 minute jobs for each side.

[VStar650CL]

Okay. So stop gap measure is to do some stop leak? If it doesn't help, than a bad rack is still bad. If it works, then I buy myself some time (hopefully a lot).

If that is the case, I likely won't do the tie rods or bellow kits until the time comes to replace the rack, but will still do the stabilizer links since those are 10 minute jobs for each side.

Yah, stop-leak will probably slow it down but I wouldn't bother fixing the boot, you may just explode the new one.

[Ilya]

Understood. Got it. I'll proceed as planned minus the boot and tie rods since I have the parts coming and the originals are probably in need of replacement anyway.

[EdBwoy]

I think all the components you've ordered are nice-to-dos, but I would personally focus on addressing the leaking rack first. Rebuilt units can be had cheaply.

While replacing the rack, you might find that certain section of the tie rods have seized and can't be separated to be reused... or they can be, but are in horrible shape and you would rather not reuse them - and that's when you rejoice for having replacement parts on hand.

I am not a fan of the solution-in-a-bottle type of fixes, but I understand that sometimes the options are limited.

[Ilya]

I think all the components you've ordered are nice-to-dos, but I would personally focus on addressing the leaking rack first. Rebuilt units can be had cheaply.

While replacing the rack, you might find that certain section of the tie rods have seized and can't be separated to be reused... or they can be, but are in horrible shape and you would rather not reuse them - and that's when you rejoice for having replacement parts on hand.

I am not a fan of the solution-in-a-bottle type of fixes, but I understand that sometimes the options are limited.

Yeah, I already told me wife like a month ago I'd likely be needing a rack when I couldn't find the general area of the leak so I was already gearing up for having that replaced. Problem is for the first time in my life, I'll be relying on mechanics to do stuff like that as I won't have access to my families shop here in NY. In FL, I'll just be doing basic maintenance like brakes, filters, etc. A rack and pinion isn't something I'd be tackling in an ill-equipped garage.

[Brian35XR]

My M37x has a dreaded PS leak also. It leaves a straight line of fluid on the ground whenever I turn forward or reverse with the wheel turned all the way left. Took it to the shop who confirmed leaking rack. I can tell you that using Stop-Leak did NOTHING to slow down the loss of fluid.

I've been slow on replacing it since unfortunately there are plenty of aftermarket racks for the M37 RWD but not the AWD. Didn't want to pony up the funds to buy one new from the dealer for $1500 but also don't want to get from a junkyard nearing the end of it's life.

I just searched and found a Maval re-manufactured rack for the M37X on PartsGeek which was OOS previously. According to Maval it also fits the M56x. https://www.mavalgear.com/maval/catalog ... ber=93425M

[Ilya]

Thanks Brian!

[AZhitman]

Gitrdun!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

+1. Replace the rack. It should come with new bellows anyway. You've already ordered the tie rod ends, so knock them out at the same time.
If you can't get that done before you leave, just pack some extra PS fluid, or use your big manly biceps to drive without power steering.
I recommend changing it all and leaving your trash in NY though. Eff 'em.

[Ilya]

+1. Replace the rack. It should come with new bellows anyway. You've already ordered the tie rod ends, so knock them out at the same time.
If you can't get that done before you leave, just pack some extra PS fluid, or use your big manly biceps to drive without power steering.
I recommend changing it all and leaving your trash in NY though. Eff 'em.

Yeah, sounds like rack is the way to go. I actually returned the tie rod ends (got them via Amazon) and will re-acquire when it's time to do them and will be looking for a new rack once I get to Tampa. I did get 2 bottles of Nissan fluid though for the trip so I should be good.

I did change the front and rear stabilizer links the other day and oil so for now she's good to go for the trip.

Thanks all!

[float_6969]

As others have said, in my experience, the stop leak does nothing. And there's no sense in replacing the boots until the rack is replaced/rebuilt either. I'd order a new complete rack assembly, throw it in, get an alignment, and enjoy the lack of fluid loss. At least for me, if I just did the rack, something else in the steering assembly would fail and I'd be back into it again, so I usually just replace everything when I do stuff like that.

[Ilya]

Yeah that's what I'm leaning towards once I get all of the house stuff done...need to find a reputable shop in Tampa Bay to do this as well.

[Ilya]

Can someone (Ed?) help me confirm that the part I need (to do the whole job) is: 49200-1MD3A.

I can't seem to tell if that's just part of it or all of it.

[C6Joe1957]

Can someone (Ed?) help me confirm that the part I need (to do the whole job) is: 49200-1MD3A.

I can't seem to tell if that's just part of it or all of it.

How was your move to Fla? Hope you and your family are settling in.

It seems that part number is not correct according to Infiniti Parts https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/parts ... 4=PREMIUM)

This is the part number for your M:49001-1MD3B

But a remanufactured one is available on FleaBay also without tie rod ends for less than half the price with free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Infiniti-M ... w0QlgOCjc

There is a $300.00 core charge after purchase but free shipping for your old rack back to them and a refund of $300.00 back to you after they receive yours.

[Ilya]

Thanks Joe!

We're settling in great. Move was largely uneventful except that I got a bubble in my front tire on the M because I hit the only pothole in 100 miles on I-75 somewhere north of Tampa as we were making our final approach. So, my Pilot Sport 3 A/S +'s are being replaced by Pilot Sport 4's which arrive today. First time having true summer tires .

Thank you for the part numbers. $1,200 isn't terrible I guess. I actually called Infiniti of Tampa and they said they'd do the whole thing for $1,800 including alignment, etc. I'm leaning towards just having the dealer do it, etc. instead of trying to find a reputable mechanic just going off of reviews and hope they know this car.

[Brian35XR]

I had the same problem with the dealership showing many different Part#'s even when I put my VIN. I purchased the Maval 93425M as it was the only remanufactured rack for the AWD I could find and Maval had good reviews from other forums. The rack was definitely reasonable - $354 with a $255 refundable core. Included the pressure and return line pins and o-rings as well as flushing instructions:


I plan on having it installed next week. Anyone with experience changing the rack know if it would be a good time to replace the outer tie rods as well? Advance Auto has them for around $40 each might as well spring for the OEM from Infiniti are around $70 each.

[Ilya]

I bought (and returned) the tie rods because yes, it definitely is the time to do them. While the price above is pretty amazing, I don't the tools or desire to tackle this alone so I'm going to fork over the moolah and let Infiniti do it.

If you can Brian, do make a HowTo which may help the next owner. Thanks!

[Ilya]

Full rack replacement, alignment and wheel balance scheduled for the 5th with my local Nissan dealer (closer than my Infiniti dealer and easier to get to/from). Hopefully they have no issues with my NY rust or my rusted TBW shield bolts.

[Ilya]

So, got my car back from the Nissan dealer after getting the rack replaced ('11 M56x) and some other work.

- Replaced rack + alignment
- Front Diff Fluid Change
- Trans Fluid Change
- Coolant Fluid Change
- Re-balance tires because Firestone's balance sucked

Total: $2,883

Car's steering is noticeably tighter and so far so good. A little more expensive than I'd have liked, was hoping they'd be able to keep it around $2,500...but it is what it is. Better than a car payment ($7k+ per year).

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Nice. Get all those salty New York fluids out of there lol.

[Ilya]

Gotta go back to said dealer, hearing 'sloshing' sound in the firewall which I believe means not enough coolant or air in the system.

[VStar650CL]

Gotta go back to said dealer, hearing 'sloshing' sound in the firewall which I believe means not enough coolant or air in the system.

Sounds like somebody didn't do a proper bleed.

[float_6969]

I discovered these a many years ago;

I've never had issues with air in the system since. I make sure the thermostat opens and closes 3 or 4 times, and I never have any issues after. Ironically, I learned about it from a friend that works at the Nissan dealership, LOL!

[EdBwoy]

Gotta go back to said dealer, hearing 'sloshing' sound in the firewall which I believe means not enough coolant or air in the system.

Correct, it needs to be bled properly.

As a point of info, over time the sloshing should stop as the air works its way out and takes in fluid from the coolant reservoir...as long as the "air bubble" isn't so large that it's causing the engine to overheat.

But for the amount of money you paid for service, heck no. I'd be back at the dealership too.

[EdBwoy]

So, got my car back from the Nissan dealer after getting the rack replaced ('11 M56x) and some other work.

- Replaced rack + alignment
- Front Diff Fluid Change
- Trans Fluid Change
- Coolant Fluid Change
- Re-balance tires because Firestone's balance sucked

Total: $2,883

...

Ilya, I'm curious. I know you mentioned Infiniti of Tampa earlier on, but ended up at the Nissan dealership. What happened, was their quote to do the entire job significantly higher?

[Ilya]

[PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT]

If you reside in Tampa Bay, AVOID Nissan of Brandon in Brandon FL. Those morons kept my TBW shield. I am LIVID. Waiting for a call back from the service manager. I even told them going in that my car is from NY and that its rusty underneath so they need to be careful with the bolts down there, etc. No one told me anything about the shield not being able to be re-installed or they flat out stole it.

I only found out I had no shield when I went to check my oil this morning and wanted to check the coolant level (btw, is there no radiator fill on the M56x?) and dropped one of those plastic rivets and it hit the floor...which made me go "Hmm?". Look down, and boom, I see the floor. Look under the car? No shield.

This on top of the fact that I have the coolant sloshing/air issue (I brought them 2 jugs of Nissan Long Life fluid and they only used 1 as I only got 1 back).

I went with Nissan because they are generally cheaper by the hour compared to Infiniti and can do the same work but never using Brandon Nissan again.

EDIT: Here is an image from the coolant fill

[PapaSmurf2k3]

What's a "TBW" shield?

[Ilya]

What's a "TBW" shield?

This thing:

https://www.tbwperformance.com/2011-201 ... -tray-tbw/

My car is the one used by TBW for the pictures as I was the guinea pig.