My little beast finally lives... However it needs some help

[DSMs_Suck]

RB20 in a s14 (I think I remember it all):RB20DEt Stock motor, using r32 crossmember. In a 95 240sx SE (with VLSD)- 3" Stainless Downpipe (straight off turbo), my friend owes me the rest of the full 3".- 3" Intake Pipe, on stock MAF (for now)- Front mount intercooler (I think its 24x9x3) with full custom 2.5" intercooler piping, using Tial BOV (atomsphere dumped)- Custom adapter box with Tial external wastegate 7psi spring. (again atmosphere dumped).- Garret/Precision GT3255 (I believe it's a GT32 Comp Wheel in a T04E compressor cover, non-ballbearing center section, and a T31 stage 3 wheel in a .63 A/R t3 turbine housing)- Walbro 255hp- ACT NX6-HDSS Clutch- PLX M-300 Wideband.- Boost gauge and tach

Coming soon: 550s, EGT, And my own custom GM 3" MAF (blow-through) Controller/Fuel Computer, and manual boost controller.

Well my friend FINALLY finished my car piping.. i.e. downpipe, adapter box, and intercooler piping. And I got to drive my car home last night, without a hood, open downpipe (still owes me cat-back), a little leaky, etc, etc... its rough.

Anyways here are my questions.First and foremost... The car just simply doesnt feel that fast to me... Honestly only a *little* quicker than the KA. I was expecting to at least be able to light the tires up when I got into boost in first.... definately not the case.Basically the car seems pretty decent with no boost or even 2psi or so. However once I get on it and crack the wastegate open at about 7psi it really doesn't seem to go any faster, than it did at 2psi. Ideas? I am thinking timing (which hasn't been set yet... but at the same time I just left it where it was from japan, which should be close). Also I have noticed that I literally PEG my wideband... which means I am less than 10:1!!! So I know there is definately some more power to be made there.

Revlimit... What is it on a RB20? I have an aftermarket sunpro tach and if I just freerev slowly the car just kinda breaks up around 6400 or so?! It doesnt really sound much like a limiter... What is the stock limiter like.. hard or soft?Also I have the tach set for a 6cyl distributer less and I believe it to be 100% correct reading because it says I idle at 800RPM and get full boost maybe around 4200... which seems exactly correct.

Temp gauge... Hmm, the sucker says HOT HOT HOT. Like usually just past the H, and will sometimes PEG. I know I forgot to switch to the KA temp sensor so that is most of the problem... Just want to make sure others have found that this is normal. I was very cautious, I would get out of the car and check the hose/radiator, I could hold the upper hose and the radiator was just a little too hot for me to hold but not by much... ... and no boiling coolant or anything. For those of u wondering, its on a stock radiator with 2 electric 12" pushers.

Other small issues:- The car likes to die when coming to a stop, mostly once its warmed up.- Oil leak from the feed line to the turbo.. I should be able to sort that out.- Open downpipe is LOUD!!- Havent tryed to fit the hood yet... too scared.

Any responses on the questions would be great... and I will have some pics soon enough.

Murray

[meggala]

first off an rb20 isnt that fast on 7 psi and wont have the low down torque of the ka.timing seems to be one issue with you though 15o is a good place to start and use the best fuel you can find then gradually raise it listening for pinging if your confident. your ecu is mapped for a much smaller turbo ie full bosst at 22-2500 not 4100 so the factory ignition map wont be helpeda/fs are always a consern on tha rb 20 but I wouldnt go playing with them yet. rev limit is 8200 on a rb20.check your plugs and gap them to .8 mm (dunno what that in in imperial.. full boost @ 4200 seems about right for the turbo set up mentioned.just go through things slowly to sort them get an aftermarket water temp gauge as well.meggala

[goofynick6]

I just got mine going tonight, and it certainly doesn't have any low-down torque with this big turbo..so yours must be the same. I THINK my timing is correct unless I read the timing marks wrong (any info on the marks)?

Also, since I have custom eprom chip and z32 maf which isn't tuned right, my wideband is saying like 10.5-11:1 under boost and accell so it's a bit laggy (full 8.5 psi by 4500 rpms).

Mine also dies when coming to a stop, but my idle air controller I think is messed up beacuse it idles at like 1500 rpms and it's turned down all the way. Make sure you have the neutral position switch hooked up, I gotta try that tomorrow.

And finally, get the right temp gauge on there..it's important because mine has tried to overheat with the proper sensor in there. I have a real water temp gauge going in this week so I can monitor it more safely.

Congrats on getting it running..can't wait to see some pics.

Nick

[Nameless EJ6]

BOV shouldn't be vented to atmosphere on RB's.. but some people do.

Let us know how it feels once you get it all sorted.

[DSMs_Suck]

Ok well, I need to figure out the exact way to set timing but I will tell you this...

Yesterday I went and "set" the timing with the loopback connector.. I ended up adding about 10 degrees advance, it read about 5 and now reads 15. I also believe I fixed the oil leak.

Anyways it made a WORLD of difference. Still a bit weak down low, but that is to be expected. However now it seems to rev out all the way to 8000, and I will tell you all this. With the setup I have it doesnt really seem to start running out of steam until somewhere in the 7500-8000 range.

I agree also to everyone that has said watch your a** with the temp. I put more (just) water in the radiator in place of some coolant/water and it lowered the temp... I had to track down the guy I sold my KA to, and got the old sensor late last night and will be putting the stock KA Temp sensor in for now, and probably soon a real autometer one.

Hmm.... pics, well actually if I have time I leave for lunch a bit early and see if I can get them up

So in any case the current status is: Put in KA temp sensor. MUCH better with timing, still gonna look for the exact way to set it. Gonna get parts to get my A/F ratio up a bit, and maybe turn the boost up to 10psi. That should get the car really moving

[NISMO_RB25]

If you can't find the old temp sendor, I actually found one at OReiley's auto parts for $11.I will be installing it this weekend, Hopefully.

[goofynick6]

I was told that at the "loop" it would be 10 degrees behind, so it should be timed at 25 at the loop, or 15 at the plug. How did you read the hatch marks? I can't remember how they go, but I think the first one is zero, whereas on other Nissan's it's -5, so I can't recall.

Nick