My latest project - in progress

[PhopsonNY]

This is as far as 2 boxes of the stuff spread... bluddy expensive stuff....

I can always add more to the rear as funds allow.

That's it for the sound deadening... next run your new wires for the stereo and reinstall the interior
Modified by PhopsonNY at 1:17 PM 5/3/2005

[PoorManQ45]

What's the difference between the shiny stuff and the black stuff?

[PhopsonNY]

Sorry, I forgot to take pictures of all the new wiring I did.

Basically ran the power cable down the drivers side door sill.Carefull with the rear hatch release and make sure it does not interfere with the gas filler door release operation.

Speaker and interconnect wires down center beside the shiffter.Stuffed extra runs of speaker wire under the HU so that I can run it into the door when I figure out how to do this.

Just one thing... I was anal about labelling every single wire and which was positive and negative... I wanted to be sure I got all the polarities correct and that I would not have to got back in to check for bad connections.

Also test that the connections work before you seal the door up or mount the crossover in place.

Here is the power cable in the engine bay... lots of zipties

Modified by PhopsonNY at 4:54 AM 5/3/2005
Modified by PhopsonNY at 11:29 PM 5/3/2005

[PoorManQ45]

I recommend spraying down the whole engine bay with degreaser, let it sit and then hose it off. It'll look alot better in there, and it'll be easier/cleaner to work in

[PhopsonNY]

Drilled a hole above the wire harness plug at the driver side, inserted a grommet and pulled the power wire thru

[PoorManQ45]

What size is that, looks like 2 or 4.

[PhopsonNY]

Make it hug the rear of the fuse box

[PhopsonNY]

Watch out for gas door release

[PhopsonNY]

Here is the Infinity Kappa rear fill unit installed.

I wish I had more pics especially of the wiring , but I was too into it and I forgot.

Tomorrow I will post a list of part used, but I hope this helps someone as much as others have helped me.

[PhopsonNY]

Thanks for looking

The Shiny stuff it RAAMAT sound deadener...

It prevents surfaces from vibrating... basically a sticky bituminous substance that sticks to a surface and helps it resist vibration.

The black stuff is B-comp... it prevents the transmission of sound from one side to the other... therefore reducing outside noises getting in.

The power cable is 0/1 will take care of any future needs.

I may or maynot degrease the engine bay... I hope to do an SR swap this summer.

cheers
Modified by PhopsonNY at 1:20 PM 5/3/2005

[PoorManQ45]

Ah, from the pictures that power cable looks alot smaller then 0/1 gauge.

I wonder, do you know if there is a difference between automotive 0/1 and commercial 0/1 wire? IIRC, 0/1 AWG is over an inch thick, whereas the automotive stuff is quite a bit smaller then that. I wonder if it's another one of those scams that they pull to make you thik that things are different.

[PhopsonNY]

Good question... I actually dont know about the 0/1 wire.

The guys at carstereo.com suggest that there is no difference in sound quality, but I got all my wires at

http://www.knukonceptz.com

They seem to have good prices.I went a little overboard there and when I got my order, I didn't know if I could get it to work under the carpet etc, but I figured I would not have to upgrade wires in the future

[Rex]

Good question... I actually dont know about the 0/1 wire.

The guys at carstereo.com suggest that there is no difference in sound quality, but I got all my wires at

http://www.knukonceptz.com

They seem to have good prices.I went a little overboard there and when I got my order, I didn't know if I could get it to work under the carpet etc, but I figured I would not have to upgrade wires in the future

Wire size should be wire size, it's the AWG (American Wire gauge) standard, and that does look a little thin for 0/1, but it's hard to teel without a real point of reference for comparison.

Look slike you've done lots of work, it'll be inetresting to see the finished product, but would be more interesting to hear it .

[SickImports]

mines a 4 gauge and it looks bigger guess its just the picture.

[ayjay]

HAHAHA that is frickin awesome man! i love it... cuttin a huge hole in your door panel and stickin that huge tweeter up top, sweeeet! it's funny how you get these crazy ideas on how your setup will look like, but then in the end all you really care about is functionality

oh btw, are your midrange/tweets sharing the same airspace as your midbass? you might want to consider creating seperate enclosures for each, cause it'll improve the sound quite a bit. but then again if your tweets/midrange don't need airspace than forget what i just said.

[PoorManQ45]

oh btw, are your midrange/tweets sharing the same airspace as your midbass? you might want to consider creating seperate enclosures for each, cause it'll improve the sound quite a bit. but then again if your tweets/midrange don't need airspace than forget what i just said.

Tweeters and most midrange drivers come with a sealed enclosure already built on them. No need to build a special one for them

[PhopsonNY]

Thanks for the props Ayjay... your earlier work was an inspiration.

The tweets and the Midrange came enclosed so no need to worry about that.

The thinkness of the wire itself it most important, not the insulation around it, so I guess it is possible that it looks small. I gotta tell you tho.. it was a real muttha making cuts in that thing.

I will probably try to refine the direction of the tweets when I tackle this again, but man I gotta say this thing sounds awesome already. I have to remember to focus on driving sometimes as the system sounds so good.

Can't wait install the JL 10w6v2 and the 500/1 so I can get that last part of the bass at full tilt.

[PoorManQ45]

I gotta tell you tho.. it was a real muttha making cuts in that thing.

HEhe, you need a loping shears. It's kind of like a bolt cutter, but the blades are curved towards each other, and when closed they are criss-crossed. I was playing with one of those the other day and I was able to cut through 0/0 like it was butter!

[cmfireman]

Not trying to be an a$$, but it looks to me like you put too much work and time to have something that looks like that in the end.

I understand you're doing this yourself, and your not a pro, but I have seen better looking setups by the ricer kids with the blue neon rings around the wal-mart speakers. It looks like you just started cutting crap and hot-gluing speakers in the holes.

I will give you props on the sound deadning though, and I'm sure yours sounds much better!

[HPR]

great work man. after everything is put back together your system should sound great, and your car's cabin noise should be almost nonexistent. keep the updates and pictures coming!

[Looneybomber]

Talk about an old thread.

Not trying to be an a$$, but it looks to me like you put too much work and time to have something that looks like that in the end.

I'm with ya.

I give him an A effort, but a D overall. The 8" woofers in the doors are not needed if he's installing a sub. A good set of 6.5" components would suffice and keep him from hacking up the doors, thus allowing a clean install.

Wow man, that RAAmat looks awesome back there! You should leave that stuff exposed.

[EW]

Products of that level deserve a much better install.