my ka24de is leaking oil....
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fredricjon
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:41 am
- Car: 240sx s13, 240z
my ka24de is leaking oil....
help my ka24de is leaking and i guess its coming from my main pulley how serious is this? can anyone teach me to how to fix it or do i have to go to a profesional mechanic? as a preventive measure i just add oil every now and then thanks
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kouki_monstor
- Posts: 165
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 12:22 am
- Car: '92 180sx
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amolao
- Posts: 3777
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2003 10:53 am
- Car: 1989 Hatchback (the first one...) w/ Autech sr20de S15
- Contact:
Re: (kouki_monstor)
Good chance your seal is gone. Not too complicated to repair. Get yourself the FSM (or download) and go at it....Is also fairly cheap...is just a little time consuming to get to it, specially if is your first time...
Not too hard, I did it in a weekend (being very lazy, only working about an hour a day, it was labor day weekend and I didn't feel like work!)
In a nutshell:
Remove the big plastic splash guard, remove the battery for safety.
Remove upper intake pipe between the intake filter box and TB. Or remove upper intake pipe and air filter box as one piece. When I did it I did the first way, but when doing the PS lines, I found that you can take the airbox with the upper pipe. Removing it in one piece may better protect the MAF.
Remove the fan shrouds both upper and lower as well as the electric fan. Don't bother unplugging the electric, just place it on top of the engine or something. Unbolt the radiator fan.
Remove the 3 accessory belts. Here comes the real fun part. The alternator and PS Pump belts can be a real PITA to get loose. First break and loosen the tensioner lock bolt and start loosening the tensioner. The tensioner is attached to the alternator and PS pump itself. Now the trick is most likely the accessory will NOT move, it will be stuck tight. The alternator is attached by two bolts: The tensioner bolt and the bolt that the alternator should pivot around. Loosen that second bolt and the alternator should move quite easily. Likewise for the PS pump. The A/C belt is easy as cake as the tensioner is not the A/C compressor but an idler pulley
With the e-brake on and car in 5th, take a 27mm socket and a nice big breaker bar (I have a 24" long breaker bar that I keep in the trunk for lug nuts, that worked beautifully) and loosen and remove the crank bolt. Some people recommended to me to get a pry bar to pull off the crank pulley. I found that a simple 2 arm 6" bearing puller from Harbor Freight Tools worked great, and it pulled the pulley off perfectly straight. In my opinion, using a pry bar around a critical component like that is just asking to bend/break something.
Then use a screwdrive to remove the rubber O-Ring but be careful not to damage the metal around it. Bit of trivia: The FSM even recommends using a screwdriver in the picture on EM-20.
Take the new O-ring, and coat it with fresh engine oil, coat the backside of the crank pulley with fresh engine oil (where it contacts the O-Ring). Put the crank pulley back on, it's keyed so it can only go on in one direction. Reassembly is reverse of above.
Before I did this I was leaking like a quart every fricking week! Now I only leak a little less than a quart every month or so. I still have a leak in the front timing cover seal to hunt down. It looks like the previous owner or a mechanic changed the timing chain but didn't properly apply the RTV.
In a nutshell:
Remove the big plastic splash guard, remove the battery for safety.
Remove upper intake pipe between the intake filter box and TB. Or remove upper intake pipe and air filter box as one piece. When I did it I did the first way, but when doing the PS lines, I found that you can take the airbox with the upper pipe. Removing it in one piece may better protect the MAF.
Remove the fan shrouds both upper and lower as well as the electric fan. Don't bother unplugging the electric, just place it on top of the engine or something. Unbolt the radiator fan.
Remove the 3 accessory belts. Here comes the real fun part. The alternator and PS Pump belts can be a real PITA to get loose. First break and loosen the tensioner lock bolt and start loosening the tensioner. The tensioner is attached to the alternator and PS pump itself. Now the trick is most likely the accessory will NOT move, it will be stuck tight. The alternator is attached by two bolts: The tensioner bolt and the bolt that the alternator should pivot around. Loosen that second bolt and the alternator should move quite easily. Likewise for the PS pump. The A/C belt is easy as cake as the tensioner is not the A/C compressor but an idler pulley
With the e-brake on and car in 5th, take a 27mm socket and a nice big breaker bar (I have a 24" long breaker bar that I keep in the trunk for lug nuts, that worked beautifully) and loosen and remove the crank bolt. Some people recommended to me to get a pry bar to pull off the crank pulley. I found that a simple 2 arm 6" bearing puller from Harbor Freight Tools worked great, and it pulled the pulley off perfectly straight. In my opinion, using a pry bar around a critical component like that is just asking to bend/break something.
Then use a screwdrive to remove the rubber O-Ring but be careful not to damage the metal around it. Bit of trivia: The FSM even recommends using a screwdriver in the picture on EM-20.
Take the new O-ring, and coat it with fresh engine oil, coat the backside of the crank pulley with fresh engine oil (where it contacts the O-Ring). Put the crank pulley back on, it's keyed so it can only go on in one direction. Reassembly is reverse of above.
Before I did this I was leaking like a quart every fricking week! Now I only leak a little less than a quart every month or so. I still have a leak in the front timing cover seal to hunt down. It looks like the previous owner or a mechanic changed the timing chain but didn't properly apply the RTV.
