My J30 is going crazy on me. The Alarm trips and my trunk pop's please help!

[infinitik]

Hi Club members,

I have a 1993 J30. I bought it two years ago this coming November. Lately it has been doing some weird things. At 1st the engine would over rev while I was on the high way. It would act up every once in a while on and off. Then about 2 weeks ago my alarm went of and it sounded like someone had their hand on the horn in the midst of N.Y. rush hour traffic. I disconnected the alarm horn but it was going off for about two hours before I noticed it so the battery died and I had to jump it. I tried pulling fuses for the alarm but I ended up pulling the hazard , and the trunk lock fuse because m trunk would open when the alarm went off, it ran Ok for about two weeks. Then the revving started again, it did this for a few days then I added some Lucas stop slip and some Valvoline high mileage stop leak. That worked about for about 3 days and then the revving just wouldn't stop. Well this past week it just died on me. I let it sit for about 4 days before I took the battery out to get tested at a local autozone. It tested bad so I got a new battery. But I can tell I still have that alarm issue because my brights stay on indefinitely and my trunk keeps popping open. If anyone has a clue about what is going on please let me know.

For those how read my post forgot to mention that the power-locks also lock by themselves along with the headlights and the trunk popping thing.

Thanks, Infinitik
Modified by infinitik at 5:41 AM 9/21/2009

[driverdriver]

Is your alternator an aftermarket one or a new or rebuilt Nissan OEM unit?

Your door locking problem is a common age related Infiniti issue. You most likely need to replace the door lock timer.

[infinitik]

I don't know it is or not. I did have to replace the alternator bolt about a year ago. but I'll check it out. How do I know if it's OEM? My second question is could the door locking issue cause the lights to stay on and my trunk to open on it's own?
Modified by infinitik at 7:59 AM 9/21/2009

[driverdriver]

The lights staying on are either:

(1.)headlight relay issue (the bulbs you use are they 55w?)(2.)fuse issue(3.)electrical issue stemming from the alternator (could explain battery being drained).

If the the Alternator is a Nissan OEM unit, it will be stamped "Nissan Mfg".

Have you gone and pulled codes from the ECU? It will narrow down the guess work.

[infinitik]

No the local auto part stores don't have the plug to read my ecu they say it's too old. Do you know were I could get the infiniti connector? If not I guess I'll have to go to shop I was trying to avoid this and see If I could fix it my self.

[driverdriver]

You don't need a connector.

Here are the instructions:

zerothread/217489

[infinitik]

Thanks for the link. 1) I just check the bulbs they are 55w.2) I also checked out the related fuses. 3) I unplugged the control assy theft warning box. When I hook the battery the brights still come on and when I connect the theft horn wire it still goes off. all this with a brand new battery.I'm going to try pulling the codes. Thanks again.

[infinitik]

I looked in the glove compartment and I found a receipt from tire-plus. It shows the alernator was replaced Aug 06'. It's a remand Bosch AL2359x.Could it go bad so fast? I bought the car at 128k and I just past 150k this summer. I changed all the belts and water pump with in the past 12 months. so I know they are good but the belts would squeal after start up. I will go get the alternator tested out. Should I get an OEM alternator?

[yodawill2000]

All the accessory belts need to be really tight.

[driverdriver]

Over the years I've seen aftermarket alternators cause all sorts of bizarre J30 problems that are only alleviated when the alternator is changed to a Nissan OEM rebuilt or new unit.

Did you pull codes from The ECU? What are they?

[infinitik]

Well I needed a new alternator. But the alarm lights are still on. I have to remove the neg cable to turn them of. I also drove if for about 30mi. and the transmission thing started and stopped coming and going. I think I need to drain it and re-level it ,but I've never messed with transmissions before. As for the codes I'll have to try and get that tomorrow it looks like I will have to pull the ecu. I'm done for now I'm gonna watch some football.

[infinitik]

Well I finally got it out. the lights blinked 5x slowly and 5x fast. The closest code to the blinks is 54 Signal circuit from a/t control unit to ecm. What does that mean and is this the right code? I watched it and counted it about 4 times it gave me the same count.

[infinitik]

I also still have yet to figure out the alarm thing. The Alternator I bought yesterday is a duralast from autozone. I don't think I can return it. I ran the car with it already. I don't have the belt squeal I had at start up so I think the belt is tight enough.

[infinitik]

Well after being down for the holidays I was able to get the car started and take it to a local electric auto mechanic he discovered it was the remote door lock controller in the trunk that went bad. It was causing the constant drain on my battery killing my battery and my alternator. This was what was causing my trunk to pop open randomly as I unlocked the car or as a drove down the street. The mechanic charged me $120 for the find an additonal $50 to change out my bad multifunction switch.I am still having transmission issues. I think I will try the inhibitor switch before I look at replacing the transmission I also am having issues with my power steering the belt is squealing like a stuck pig and I am loosing a lot of ps fluid. @ first I tried that Lucas oil stop leak but it's not working any more. I know I need a rack and pinion as well. Well if anyone is having problems with they're trunk popping or the doors acting crazy you know another place to look. If anyone wants to part with theirs I will consider buying it from you I also need the key-less entry remote I never got one with the car.
Modified by infinitik at 7:30 AM 1/27/2010