Well your chart is a little wrong. SR20>RB20>RB25. Both RB's are a pain in the *** to do. The 20 been not so much of a pain and easier to do. You don't need a drive shaft for that. Then go turn the boost up on your RB25 and see how long you last before you blow those crappy piston rings. You could build a faster SR20 for the price of a RB25 swap. Parts suck for both RB's. You can find gaskets for the SR20 at your local dealer without ordering them and waiting a few weeks to get.Kamin wrote:heres the order
RB25>SR20>RB20
if you are gonna go through all the hassle of a rb swap spend the money at least get an engine that is a better base. SR and RB20 are gonna make the same kind of power for the same money, but with the RB20 you have to deal with lack of parts and information.
what the hell are you talking about? RB25's are totally reliable even up past 350whp. its done all the time.Yellow4g63 wrote:Well your chart is a little wrong. SR20>RB20>RB25. Both RB's are a pain in the *** to do. The 20 been not so much of a pain and easier to do. You don't need a drive shaft for that. Then go turn the boost up on your RB25 and see how long you last before you blow those crappy piston rings. You could build a faster SR20 for the price of a RB25 swap. Parts suck for both RB's. You can find gaskets for the SR20 at your local dealer without ordering them and waiting a few weeks to get.
Your info is a little misguided. IF you research almost all RB25's with cracked ring lands you will see it's due to poor or no tuning. If you really think the RB25's is so weak why are we seeing them push near 600rwhp with stock blocks? (RBtally 585, Fito 587(?), JMS 601)It's proven that the stock ecu goes crazy with increased boost, a piggy back won't cut it.Yellow4g63 wrote:
Well your chart is a little wrong. SR20>RB20>RB25. Both RB's are a pain in the *** to do. The 20 been not so much of a pain and easier to do. You don't need a drive shaft for that. Then go turn the boost up on your RB25 and see how long you last before you blow those crappy piston rings.
S13 blktop motorset can be had for $2400 (Same guy I got my motorset from) SR is way easier and cheaper than a RB25 or RB20 to get parts for. Name it and it will be cheaper and you will find it like that. The Idea that the RB rules all is just insane. It's a good motor but if you really want to save your self the hassle you would go with the SR20.Kamin wrote:what the hell are you talking about? RB25's are totally reliable even up past 350whp. its done all the time.
in terms of the best engine the RB25 is better than the SR for power and ease of gaining power, a SR with the money from a RB25 swap wont put that much more power down unless you do the mckinney route and pay the godawful 1400$ for their mounts, wiring and driveshaft. my swap cost me under 4000$, whats the going rate for a S14 sr clip? 3000? if you are comparing the SR and RB20 the SR is definatley easier to get parts and information for. thats where my chart came from.
The cars that blow them aren't tuned, There running factory computer and a little more boost. The fact remains that the ring glans are higher up on the piston on the Rb25 vs the RB20 or 26. I think it was for emissions or something. I have raced my friends RB25 240 vs my RB20 240, The outcome wasn't "DAMN I should have bought a RB25 240 he smoked me bad!" It was a little faster than my Rb20 but nothing to go preach that the RB25 is gods Chariot motor. Any good motor with a good engine management system and a good tuner will make hp. There were a few SR's making close to 600hp and I think there was even one that made 600 on the stock block? Now whats the point? a smaller 4 cylinderl motor made the same as a bigger 6 cylinder motor??? The one good thing about the internet is that there alot of experts on there.eh? wrote:Your info is a little misguided. IF you research almost all RB25's with cracked ring lands you will see it's due to poor or no tuning. If you really think the RB25's is so weak why are we seeing them push near 600rwhp with stock blocks? (RBtally 585, Fito 587(?), JMS 601)It's proven that the stock ecu goes crazy with increased boost, a piggy back won't cut it.
i said S14, not s13 blacktop.Yellow4g63 wrote:S13 blktop motorset can be had for $2400 (Same guy I got my motorset from) SR is way easier and cheaper than a RB25 or RB20 to get parts for. Name it and it will be cheaper and you will find it like that. The Idea that the RB rules all is just insane. It's a good motor but if you really want to save your self the hassle you would go with the SR20.
Kamin wrote:why make more headaches for yourself if you could have gotten a cheaper swap/maintance and make the same power? if i had to choose KA-T vs RB25 i would choose KA EVERY DAMN TIME.
I usally don't say anything when the Rb20 bashing starts because it's just people opinions on what they feel is better. We all know what opinions are like and everyone has one. So I'll leave it at you like the 25 and I like the 20 and we all hate the KA.... j/k lolKamin wrote:i said S14, not s13 blacktop.
im not debating the fact a SR is a cheaper, smarter or easier swap. my whole deal was is if you are going to do a RB swap and have to deal with everything that comes along with it at least get an engine thats better suited for big power. why make more headaches for yourself if you could have gotten a cheaper swap/maintance and make the same power? if i had to choose SR20 VS RB20 i would choose SR EVERY DAMN TIME.
the RB dosent rule all, i never said that. the correct motor for what you are doing with the car rules all.
i belive the stock SR whp RECORD is 540ish WHP. thats 1 engine. a RB25 pushing 500whp has been done a ton more than a SR ever will, its a bigger, stronger engine. PERIOD.
oh yea, as for the "rings near the top of the piston" unless they are incredibly close and are causing horrible ringland cracking issues (wich there isnt.) that has absolutley no bearing on this conversation. the RB25 is not weaker because of this, any compotent person who decides to go for big power knows they need a proper tune. anyone who dosent will be replacing engine componetns reguardless of what engine they have.
I remember when i took the rb25 for machine work. The bill was almost $1k and that's without blue printing and block assembly. You can almost buy an rb25 motorset with those 2 included. I think most people just tally up the cost of the build parts and forget machine shop costs.Kamin wrote:ehh i dunno about that, like i said earlier my RB25 swap cost under 4000$its gonna be hard to get a decent turbo setup AND build an engine for that
tight240 wrote:At the end of the day if you love 240's it shouldnt matter what engine you have in the car, every engine that was listed are good engines and are unique in it's own way. I just think it's kind of ignorant for somebody to say, owe this motor is the best and that motor is not the best. Plus you talking like you have a rb26dett. and hell nuttin really gets better then a rb30det so please.................... kill it. When you have a 1,200 hp 240 you can talk all the ish you want and i wont have nuttin to say.
I picked it for 1500, he gave me an extra KA transmission, MAF, ecu, sway bar, and 3 good tires.Pencil Shavings wrote:if you dont mind me asking, how much did you get that car for, looks super clean, the body is niiice