I installed these fog lamp replacement DRLs from iJDMToy "LEDriving CREE High Power LED Projector Fog Lamps with DRL Lights". http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Genuine-OEM-Sp ... 70-610.htm

Overall I'm happy with the product but there was something that didn't seem right - so I thought I'd ask here if anyone else has used this product.

1) When the stock fog lamps are removed, the light housing/mounting bracket is removed too which has the light aiming (adjuster) on it. These DRLs then fit into the fog lamp opening in the bumper but there is no way to adjust them. I don't know if this is a problem as the lights seem to be aimed fine (but my testing was limited and it has not been foggy out yet).

2) The product description says this: Unlike Osram Sylvania LEDriving that only turn on either the DRL or the fog light mode, we have improved ours so you can enable both LED daytime running lights and fog lights at the same time! The result is an even brighter shine that will make heads turn and jaws drop.
. I don't have a problem with this, but you can't turn on the fog lights unless the DRLs are on too. The DRLs come on when power is applied to the red wire. Without power on the red wire no DRLs no Fog lights. So you have to have both DRLs and Fogs on if you want the Fog light on. This is okay with me. Just reporting.

Here the big question:
3) I did not want to run wires (the DRL red/power wire) inside the car to get to a key-on power source, so I bought this "vibration switch". http://store.ijdmtoy.com/LED-daytime-ru ... aa1072.htm When the engine is running, the engine's vibration turns on the auto-switch and hence provided power to the red wire to turn on the DRLs. Brilliant!
Had this working for a couple of weeks, but this Monday morning my battery was dead. And after charging the battery for a while, when I went back outside and noticed the DRL where On (engine not running). I don't know if the low battery caused the "auto-switch" to malfunction and turn on, or if the auto-switch malfunctioned first causing the battery to die. Now I'm not so sure this auto-switch is a good idea or not.

Has anyone used one of these "auto-switches"? If yes, how long - and is it the same brand?

I have the older version which has the multiple LED as fog light with a 360 ring as DRL. AS far as I know unless the DRL wire is connected to power, (mine is not) the fog lights and DRL ring both light up as a fog light when turned on form inside the cabin. Not sure what happens when the DRL wire is connected to power as I haven't tried it yet.

As far as the first question, I believe the adjustability is gone once you remove the OEM lights/brackets.

The third question is a puzzle. I am wondering what the shutting off mechanism is for the controller. I would guess the problem is with its operation as the engine shuts down. Have you seen it turn off last time getting out of the car? Is it instantaneous, or is there a delay like with other lights? There's not much info on the website you linked. Is there a users manual that came with the switch?
My other theory is that due to the sensitivity of the ON function, it may have been that something/someone bumped your car which caused the switch to power on the DRL but my money is on the first theory.

Well that switch you installed says on it that it starts the power supply over 13 volts, so since you were probably charging at 14 +, it would turn on. I wouldn't be surprised if that switch is draining the battery, being it is a direct connection. Have you had any battery issues prior to installing it?

Also, I'm wondering why you didn't just tap the original fog lamp wiring to power these? You can order matching plug ends so you don't have to cut your factory harness.

If it wasn't clear in my description, the way this auto-switch works is that it is connected to "always Hot" source (like battery), and the module itself is then mounted on the engine (mine is wire-tied to the air intake hose. When the engine starts the vibration causes the switches contacts to close providing 12V power to the output leads. The switch has a 5 second shutoff delay, so after the engine is shut off the DRLs stay on for another 15 seconds.

@Altered: I did not see/read anything about the switch coming on if battery voltage is over 13 volts (that would be good then it would also turn on the switch when engine is running/charging in case the engine is too smooth). Thank you for discovering this and reporting it (although now that I look at closely at writing on the switch I see what you are referring to). I have not had battery problems before but the car is a 2011 and was still on its original battery (and this is FL where batteries don't last more than 4 years) so it was probably just time for a new battery.

That is comforting to hear that the "charging of the battery" is why the DRL lights came on. So now I can hook the switch up again with out fear that something is wrong with it and it will drain my battery.

@Mjkkb2: This DRL/Fog light kit has a "yellow" wire that can be connected to the headlight feed if you want the DRL lights to turn off when the headlights and fog lights are both on. I didn't connect the yellow wire. And for the first week or so, every time I shut off the engine I would wait around the extra 15 seconds to be sure the DRLs shut off. Everything worked until the battery was found dead on Monday morning.
I think Altered explained why the DRL lights were on when I checked on the car that night while it was connected to the charger (once the battery charged up enough the 14V charging caused the switch to close).

Thanks for your responses.

I missed answering a question:
The factory Fog light harness does plug directly into the DRL assembly. The kit comes with two connector types so you just need to install the matching connector. At first I thought the fog lights would come on without the DRL lights (just passing the existing fog light power to the new fog lights) but it doesn't work unless the DRLs are on (power to red wire). That is the reason for my comments in my second paragraph. Its not a problem but I first thought there was a problem while testing the install before powering up the red wire.

I'm posting back to update this project thread in case anyone finds this thread while searching on iJDMToy DRL/Fog light.

The DRL/Fog lights are nice - no problems with those - but the "auto-switch" I bought/used is not working so good. I even replaced the first one with another thinking maybe the battery charging process somehow damaged the first one. But the second auto-switch is doing the same thing.
The DRLs come on with engine start up. I thought they were staying on, but I noticed (in the refection of other cars while stopped behind them) that the DRLs turn off after 10 seconds or so, then once I start driving again, they turn back on. Next stop light, they turn back off.

So I hard wired the DRL/Fog light modules to key-On power, and now they stay on as they should. My advice to anyone reading this - don't get the "auto-switch", just hard wire the 12V power supply.

Could you possible add some pictures of the fog lights with the just the horseshoe pattern lit up ? Are they bright enough to be noticed during the day ?

Just ordered these lights as well. If they show up before the weekend I'm putting them in Saturday. I'll take pics and do a little review on them as well.

Make sure you look them over before installation, etc. because iJDMToy has a HORRIBLE customer service team and warranty policies.

That bad eh ? I read a few complaints about them. The only thing that bothers me is one review on Amazon that says the lights died after 7 months of use. That's not cool for 150 dollars lights. Guess we'll see. I'll install them this weekend.

I have pictures of the horseshoe lamps in the day. I'll post some when I get back to my home computer. I've had them installed since May.
They are very bright and easy to see during the day. I really like the product. I did need to contact customer service with some questions when I first installed and I thought they responded quickly and where helpful. Sorry to hear others had complaints about customer service.

It's hard to get a photo showing the Horseshoe lighting - it looks really good in person but my camera keeps showing a full round light look. In person the horseshoe shape is very easy to see and is very bright.

Hey Mike... Any tips on installing these to our M's ?

It wasn't hard installing them - other than you have remove the inner fender well cover. It's been a few months now so some details on the install are a light foggy (no pun).

1) You remove the stock fog light assembly (the chrome trim on the front is held on by tabs) from the bumper. Remove the stock fog light first (from back side), then remove the trim ring. There is a single bolt that holds the fog light into its bracket (I believe it is an 8mm socket).Install new DRL/Fog (from front) then reinstall the trim.

2) The new DRL/Fog lights are pushed/held into the fog light housing/bumper openings by friction fit. No screws hold it in place. But its snug. Be sure to have the new lights oriented properly before pushing in (i.e. top of lights at 12 o'clock). You won't be using the stock bracket (which is the alignment mechanism) so you won't have ability to align the new lights but they seem to be aligned fine.

3) The new DRL/Fog lights have a control box that needs to be secured near the lights. There's plenty of room and places to mount this box on the drivers side of car. Then there is a wire harness that connects the R and L DRL/Fog control boxes to each other. I ran this wiring across the front of radiator securing to existing wiring.

4) On the passenger side, its harder because of the washer reservoir being in the way. But it was more trouble to try and remove the reservoir than to work around it.

5) On the pass side, I stuck the control box in the opening of the aluminum structure of the bumper (the real bumper is a hollow rectangular aluminum structure with hollow space about 10" tall and 2" wide). I wrapped some foam-like packing material around the control box and inserted into the bumper structural member (actually I used the 4 " wide foam that is put down between the concrete/block house foundation and the wood sill plate is installed - because that's what I had on hand an its waterproof). One wrap of this material and it fits snuggly in the bumper opening.

6) The stock fog light wiring harness needs to be plugged into the new DRL/Fog lights. The kit comes with two connector styles to fit other car models.

7) you will need to be sure that stock fog light wires are polarity correct (pos to pos and neg to neg). I'm pretty sure the new LED lights won't work if these wires are reversed. So don't put everything back together until you test and make sure DRLs are working first.

8) The DRL/Fog lights need to have 12V power to the control box to work - I found this out the hard way (I first thought the stock fog light would still work even if the new control boxes didn't have 12V power. But nothing worked without 12V to box).

9) This thread was originally created about this issue (comments above). So be prepared to get a 12V (key On) power source to the control box. There is enough wiring harness from the control box to get the connection point (to the Key On 12V) under the hood to an easy to get to place. I ran the wiring on the passenger side. This means before you mount the control boxes you need to decide which box to install on the drivers side and passenger side since only one box has the harness for the 12V power feed.

10) The best place to get the wiring from under the hood to inside the car (to connect to fuse panel) is to make a hole in the rubber wire harness boot where the engine wiring goes through the firewall into the car on the passenger side (right behind the battery and below windshield on 2011 model). You can poke a hole through this boot with a metal punch then stick a piece of still wire (like mechanic's wire) through the hole. With glove box removed, it is easy to see the other side of this boot and get the stiff piece of wire. Tie/tape your new 12V wire from fuse box to this stiff piece and pull it through to the engine side. Put some wire loom around it and connect to DRL/Fog light power wire.

I hope I covered all the basics. Good luck.

Great pic! Looks awesome!

Thank Mike. Very detailed explanation. Definitely wasn't expecting that much info!

Doing my install tomorrow. I'll post pics in this thread for others to reference later.

When I was running the "Key On" 12V from fuse box to engine compartment - I ran a second wire (not yet connected to power) for future use. It's such a pain to work under the dash on these newer cars (no room for anything) I don't want to do it again if I later want to add something under the hood that needs Key-On power.

I removed the glove box and the panel at driver's knee to make it easier. It was still a pain to get the wires from passenger side to drivers side (past console), but not too bad. Then I used a mini-fuse tap to connect to cigarette lighter fuse location.

I don't recall whether our cars have "mini" fuses or "micro" fuses, but they are different so be sure to get the right type fuse tap (my fuse-tap kit came with both types).

Got them installed today. All in all, pretty easy and it took me about 3 hours. Taking the wheels off and taking the fender liners off was easily more than half that. LOL

I hooked mine into the "shift interlock" relay, in the box which is right behind the driver's side headlight. Looking at the diagram, it gets power with ignition and is a pretty beefy circuit. It seems the DRL function actually pulls power from this, so it needs a couple of amps (I didn't get a chance to measure...).

I was going to take pictures, but I did it at night... couldn't really see anything. I love the way they look though.

I didn't know the "Shift Interlock relay" was a good source for "Key On" power. I did look through the manual/elec diagram hoping to find an under hood 12V-key-On connection point - but didn't. So Nice tip! If you get a chance to post pictures later, try to add a pic of this relay.
I'm not sure how much amperage the DRLs pull, but I am using a 5A fuse, so it's under that.

I was thinking about plastidipping the chrome bezels to either black or white, to get rid of the weird glare. I think maybe black.

I'll have to look into this shift interlock relay, that make for that advice. I currently have my DRLs tied to my radio fuse, which we all know is powered when the car is in ACC; I'm really not fond of that.

Its been working great for me. The only thing I don't like about these foglights, is that I can't show them off to anybody with the engine off. If I try to turn them on they flicker and turn on and off like crazy. Must be too low a voltage for them.... Or my battery is too weak.

Forgot to post my pictures.. but here they are!

The light looks a little yellowish.. but they're about 6500K. Much whiter than the OEM headlights. It almost makes the headlights look like they have halogen bulbs in them! lol