My engine layout, missing anything? Something wrong?

[TrueSlide]

Finally have the layout I want for my engine. Here it is:

Z22 block, Z20 crank/rods and a KA24E head(I have). From what I understand, the z22 is a very strong block and has a siamesed bore and can be bored to 89mm(Also bore prevents valve shrouding, KA24 Pistons). The z20 crank(fully counterweighted) and rods.

The way I understand it is the z20 crank will slap right into the z22 block using the z22 rods with customs pistons(I have heard KA24 pistons have slightly low compression with that setup, so customs are probley a must.) KA24E head bolts perfectly on z22 block, front cover and all.

The rods needed are from a truck with the z20 as the rods are slightly shorter at 149.5mm.

Goal is a 7.5k+ KA with a good amount of power.

I have now sourced the block/crank/rods. I have found a fab shop that will do me up a custom intake and now I just need to find some TBs. I do plan on dropping a pretty good cam on it. R4 high performance cam from nissan motorsports. Compression goal is 10:1 or 11:1. I need to run pump gas. Header, probley hotshot. Megasquirt ECU either 2.2 or the new 3.0(undecided). Ignition Iam going to try and find from a escort.

Hopefully with this setup I can squeeze over 200hp and decently high rpms(above 7.5). Goals attainable on that setup?

Trying to make this cost effective(experiment).

Hope Iam not forgetting things atm.

[deviousKA]

Sounds like a plan.

A few little things that you have to be aware of is all that you would need to add to your list. You will need an external thermostat housing, custom breather for the crankcase (oem Z has wraparound tube, easy to drop into can), and you have to be aware that unless you use custom pullies, you will be converting to v belt and will need to use alternate pully hubs for your power steering pump, and possibly alternator depending on what you want to use.

Most of the Z series engines have the clutch fan built into the water pump pulley. In this situation, use a water pump from a z car with its bolt on pulley hub.

There is a good variety of aftermarket pullies for the l/z series. The best of which would probably be the full multi-v conversion in anodized pink available from arizona z cars. The best budget setup would be the race aluminum l series pulley available from rebello, very cheap (~$80), v belt style.

Or if you can find it used, a nissan motorsports l/z pulley (fully degreed), v belt style.

Look into a 4-1 header if possible, despite some drawbacks I would suggest a pacesetter, or maybe a doug thorley truck header.

As far as megasquirt goes, get the v3.0 and ms2. I run v2.2, it is great, but might as well get the 3.0. I run the escort edis ignition and the only draw back is that at very low idle rpm, depending on the fueling conditions (injector placement etc..) you will get intermittent throttle flameballs. Not a huge issue, just make sure that your air filter is flame retardant. Pipercross or ITG filters are the way to go.

[deviousKA]

Another thing you might want to think about for simplicitys sake is using the oem ka24e efi for a time being. If you had this system laying around, with a few slight modifications it would feed a hybrid rather well.

The ecu can be remapped and extended for resolution up to 9000 rpm, can be fully tuned similar to standalone.

And jfyi, the edis system has a rumored limit of 8500-9000 rpm, although some are using to 9k with no problems.

[TrueSlide]

Hmm, I thought about using the stock KA top end, would be kinda different I thought, I do have two complete top ends just laying around. Probley for simplicity I will use the KA24E top end.

9k!!!! WOW, dont think I will be cranking that high. 8k sounds great. The counterweight crankshaft, Iam sure with slightwork(balancing) it could support that(on good bearings).

My question is would the head flow good at that high? I remember from pandas dyno it seemed the power start to die out at a certain RPM(I think it was assumed cams, which will be changed.) But as far as the longer runners on the intake, would it be beneficial to run that many RPMs?

It can be tuned with the daughterboard or stanza ECU thats on your eccs site?

As far as header/ kinda relucentlant on the pacesetter, my current one is kinda bad off(rust, didnt clear the steering rack when I got it, and bangs the bottom end of my car. Could be my motor mounts are now shot though. I may consider it again, buy a new one and get it freakin coated so it wont rust.

With the tuneable KA24E, I can elimate the need for half the vaccums and emission stuff?

btw, can you email me some pics of those rods!

[deviousKA]

You dont need to get to extreme with your camshaft duration. You will have a large valve size and your piston acceleration will be slower (as it begins), which means more time for cylinder fill, less duration needed. Not an exact relation, but to get a good idea of the differences and to understand your duration needs, you can relate to average piston speed. This average speed doesnt take acceleration into account per say, but can be a good start to a comparison.

Find a piston speed calculator and enter the data for the Ka, and then for your new hybrid. You will see that for any given rpm, the piston speed of the ka is greater (obviously). You can generally assume that the camshaft will allow the engines to breathe in the same ranges of piston fps. So, with your destroked hybrid, you can obtain more rpms to equal this piston speed.

Now, some would argue that the average piston speed takes acceleration from tdc/bdc into account. It does somewhat, but does not take into account the length of the rod (rod to stroke ratio), which changes acceleration due to the difference in rod angle. Tayloring your cams to these piston movement characteristics is key.

What Im getting at is that you can use mild or oem ka 2.4l cams to produce different results with a hybrid rotating assembly. This is why the dual cam heads are more useful with a hybrid, less duration and lift is needed so the buckets/shims do not need to be enlarged, the main drawback to building high hp ka24de's.

The oem intake manifold for the 2.4l will be more than ample in runner diameter for the hybrid, this will also match the 2.4l valve sizes ports etc.. One (or more) of the multiple resonance characteristics of the runner length may fall into a range of use for your engine, you will need to do some calculating to get a general idea.

The ka24e ecu (240sx, stanza, truck) is very easy to chip and tune. You do not need any sort of daughterboard, you simply remove the stock chip and then install your tuned chip. It is a single basic 28 pin eprom. All that you need is a basic chip burner ($50) and a pc.

All emissions and vacuum that is not not necessary can be removed.

The stanza ecu is basically identical to the 240sx ka24e ecu, the only difference is that the stanza ecu can be connected to a pc or laptop for real time monitoring etc.. All tuning methods of the ecus are the same.

And yeah, the pacesetters do rust, they are like a year and half lifetime header, but overall not bad and a lot of high hp ka24e's are running them.

edit: btw, I will take some pictures of those rods tomorrow, they are at the shop.

[All_Motor_KA]

Just like to add I have pacesetters and they fit great. Cleared my steering and everything. The paint does just fall off though. Right now half my header is white and the other half rust. :-D. Get it coated you should be fine.

[TrueSlide]

Weird, maybe I got a bad header, my pacesetter bolted to the head pefect, but man, didnt clear steering rack and its downpipe bangs the bottom of my on takeoff.

But I do need a new one, so I may try pacesetter again, hopefully it will work better second time around. lol.