My dat rebuild

1962-1965 Datsun L320 and NL320 forums - The truck that started it all in the US. All 320-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

It's a matter of what I can get my hands on at the time. Conversions aren't hard I've put disc brakes on my morrie (With the help of a friend as it was my first conversion). Fitting master cylinders with boosters will see the battery being moved to the tray or passenger side I haven't made up my mind yet. Once I get my hands on some parts I'll post what I modify. Cheers


matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

Cut up the A post today.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

welded up the A post this afternoon.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

A bit of a look at how the door fits with the new sill section, floor pan and A post.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

rust holes beneath the left side of the windscreen.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

now rust free beneath the window

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

The battery tray has been removed and will be put under the rear tray. The horn relay has been moved toward the firewall, still on the inner guard, the coil has been placed on the inner guard behind where the battery used to be and the fuse box has been placed in the very corner of the firewall without changing the loom. I did this as I believe the moisture factor will be reduced on the fuse box (Due to water splashing off the vent box grill) and it all looks a lot neater with the wiring all kept localised on the inner guard. I'll post a picture once I tidy up the rest of it.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

the battery mounts have been masacred previously so it's a good old clean up job for me. Any way here is a pic of the progress with the wiring moved and battery tray out.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

front on photo and toyota carby put on.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

toyota carby from the firewall/left side

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

more room in the engine bay, was the battery tray badly rusted?

its a bit hard to see the wiring as the pics are a little small for me....

 

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

The wiring is all up under the inner guard. The battery tray was some make shift peice of rubbish. The mounts were cut with a cold chisel by the look of them.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

toyota carby front on

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

the carby stands out, sooo clean and looks new

is the engine running better with that carby?

hold on you had a 120y carby before right? what made you swapped it with a toyota item?


matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

this photo is as good as i can get for the wiring. crappy weather.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

The 120y carby is actually off the a12 engine I have for my morris minor. The toyota carb bolts straight on.  No need for modification what so ever. Plus it looks a lil more original. The 120y carby required an adaption plate to fit it to the intake manifold.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

As for how it runs: I don't actually know how it runs as I have the fuel tank out, the fuel lines removed and the gearbox and starter motor are out.:D

kenbagby
Posts: 183
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

Matti, you and our other Australian members warm my heart. You would fit in nicely here in the South. Down here we call it "Southern Engineering" but what you are doing is improvising. That's something that doesn't come natural unless you are a farm-boy. When I grew up and you were in the field you couldn't call someone to come and fix the tractor. Faced with a several mile walk home, you found a way to get the tractor working. That's just what you've done. I'm impressed, and know if you lived in NC you and I would be drinking buddies. Great work mate!:dude:

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

Funny you should mention the "Farm boy" thing. Thats exactly the sort of thing I've been doing since I was 8, just not on a farm. A small property backing onto state forest to be exact. My father has restored a few cars in my life time and has made quite a few stock racers. He built a 1929 Essex, 1928 Buick an Austin A40 and a Morris minor plus helped a lot of other people with their projects. He is currently hot rodding a 1938 plymouth and cruising in a ZD ford fairlane. My father has been my source of underpinning knowledge for many years. Now days we actually converse on Ideas for our projects rather than the whole "Me sensai, You grasshopper" thing.

cheers

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

I went on a little mission to fit a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I went to a brake place in Toowoomba and managed to walk out with a new kit for $63 aus. This included a new PBR 3/4 Universal master cylinder, PBR (2" holes) 3/4 slave cylinder and steel hose to match. I had a brand new flex hose in my shed. BONUS! The master cyl bolts straight in with absolutely no modification. (even the supplied push rod) I've installed it all but I seem to have misplaced the slave cyl push rod. I feel another slap up job coming on. :D Pics to come once I've got it working 100% 

Ohio L320
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

I'm impressed with how nicely you made the replacement sheet metal parts.

 Do you have a sheet metal break or what method did you use to bend the metal ?

I need the rockers replaced on mine but have limited equipment, so I was curious as to how you did yours.

Thanks

Joe

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

ohio L320,

The sheet metal parts were folded with a folding machine and cut out using a large guiloteen. The next weapons of choice are the 4" grinder, 9" grinder, drill and a mig welder. All the curved shaping and floor pan were done with the grinder. Some people use cardboard templates to shape first and then transfer that onto the sheet metal. I simply use a texta and cut out the shape I want, then grind any little variations to get a butt joint finish. What do you mean by the "rockers"?

Ohio L320
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

"What do you mean by the "rockers"?"

 The part that I guess you call "sills"  we call "rocker panels" or "rockers'" for short.

Mine are rusted out -  thats why I was interested in how you made yours and thought you did a fantastic job.     Again, nice job !

Joe


kenbagby
Posts: 183
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

Matti, "you da man". keep it up you're making progress. I think I'll send a few parts your way to 'improvise" or  "Southern Engieer"! I'll need a couple of A/C brackets for my 320, are you up to the task? Ken

User avatar
IMH
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

Ken, I'm a liscensed MVAC tech.  I can make brackets.  In fact I can do the whole system if there was just somewhere to put that compressor so that it could be driven by something that doesn't require re engineering the entire front portion of the engine compartment.  I've researched a/c in a 320 for a couple of years now.  If you come up with something that works, I'll be the first to applaud you!

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

This is a pic of the PBR universal master cylinder. She works a treat. I did modify 1 thing. I cut about 10mm off the top stud to give plenty of room for the steel tube and fitting. In aircraft a bolt and nut is considered "safe" if there are at least 2 threads showing when the nut is tight.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

This is a PBR universal slave, it has the wrong hole separation so I notched out the lower hole. This allows the alignment to remain perfectly straight and is minimal fuss to do.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

Ohio L320,

 Hopefully next week I will be doing the sill section (rocker) on the other side. If you want I can take photos of every step along the way. I can also give you the measurements I used. It will probably go over the following week as my kids can be rather distracting. Gotta love 'em!

cheers

Ohio L320
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

Hey Matti

An illustration and or measurements would be great.  I don't have all the sheet metal  folding equipment only a little hand held type folder that I got at a yard sale a few summers ago.  

What would you charge to make up a couple of rocker panels (sills) ?    ( you may put yourself in business ).

Enjoy your posts with the pictures ,  if nothing else it's encouragement for the rest of us.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

Post

I will post some pics and measurements for you. Take them to a sheet metal worker and see what sort of price he is asking. It shouldn't be much because it is all very straight forward. I would gladly make the stuff for you but I don't know how much postage and stuff would cost. You still have to do the welding too. If you know someone with a spot welder it would save you a lot of trouble. See how you go and keep in touch.

cheers


Return to “Datsun 320”