my dam hatch has rust
my dam hatch has rust
the only rsut on my 1992 240 is on that dumb hatch with that gay spoiler should i look for a new one of fix the old one. will a 1989 and 1990 hatch fit on my 1992
Re: my dam hatch has rust (dezi)
go to the junk yard and get a new traunk with no spoiler
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NeedCAforS13
- Posts: 4340
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 3:58 pm
- Car: CA swapped S13 coupe
- Location: Spartanburg SC
- Contact:
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214kka-et240sx
- Posts: 477
- Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2005 12:53 pm
- Car: nissan s13 silvia
Re: (240DRFT)
it depend were you go, here in CA, its like 50 bux for hatch and wing240DRFT wrote:for u guys that have gone to the junkyark and got a wingless hatch, how much was it?
Re: my dam hatch has rust (dezi)
well if you really want to stand out get a cf one!!
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Tulsa_S-13
- Posts: 1953
- Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 2:14 pm
- Car: 1991 SR 240sx
Re: my dam hatch has rust (Sky240PWR)
Your best bet is to call around salvage yards and pick up another hatch that way. If you do not have luck finding a spoilerless hatch you have 2 options.
The first being to get someone to weld up the holes and sectioning out the rust. You could then use a light coat of body filler (after hammering out any highs and lows) and smooth out the hatch. The cost of having someone weld up the holes is roughly $50.
Your second choice is the cheaper choice, that is fiberglassing the hatch.
First remove the old paint off the areas where body filler will be applied. You can do this using a chemical stripper (can be hazardous to the skin and not safe in a poorly ventilated area) or you can buy an attachment for your drill to remove the paint. You'll basically want to remove almost all the paint off the hatch because applying filler over paint is a no-no. Depending on how large the rusted area is you can cut the rust out, use rust converter, or use your drill/wheel attachment and remove any surface rust. Next youll want to remove the paint on the inside of the hatch where you will be using your fiberglass cloth and resin. After you hammer out any highs or lows you can apply your fiberglass to the under side of the holes. Let the resin cure until it is no longer tacky and is very solid. You can then apply short-strand fiberglass filler on the top part of the holes. Fiberglass filler is stronger then light weight body filler but can be a pain in the neck to sand. After your done with that you can use ordinary filler to take care of any imperfections left. Shoot with primer, sand the primer, and then shoot the paint.
Fiberglassing can last a long time if done correctly, but if not done correctly it can create more problems in the future. Many users would probably agree that the best thing to do is to buy another hatch.
Hope this all helps.
The first being to get someone to weld up the holes and sectioning out the rust. You could then use a light coat of body filler (after hammering out any highs and lows) and smooth out the hatch. The cost of having someone weld up the holes is roughly $50.
Your second choice is the cheaper choice, that is fiberglassing the hatch.
First remove the old paint off the areas where body filler will be applied. You can do this using a chemical stripper (can be hazardous to the skin and not safe in a poorly ventilated area) or you can buy an attachment for your drill to remove the paint. You'll basically want to remove almost all the paint off the hatch because applying filler over paint is a no-no. Depending on how large the rusted area is you can cut the rust out, use rust converter, or use your drill/wheel attachment and remove any surface rust. Next youll want to remove the paint on the inside of the hatch where you will be using your fiberglass cloth and resin. After you hammer out any highs or lows you can apply your fiberglass to the under side of the holes. Let the resin cure until it is no longer tacky and is very solid. You can then apply short-strand fiberglass filler on the top part of the holes. Fiberglass filler is stronger then light weight body filler but can be a pain in the neck to sand. After your done with that you can use ordinary filler to take care of any imperfections left. Shoot with primer, sand the primer, and then shoot the paint.
Fiberglassing can last a long time if done correctly, but if not done correctly it can create more problems in the future. Many users would probably agree that the best thing to do is to buy another hatch.
Hope this all helps.