My Custom Service Schedule

[Qashqai]

This Rogue is my first 0 km car and I would like to take good care of it. I tried to follow Nissan's Recommended Schedule for the first year. However, I can't afford paying an average of $ 150 + tax for my each visit to the Nissan Service.

They are supposed to inspect certain parts and fluids. I don't know if they really check the mechanical parts (for a 14.000 km car I don't think they can "find" a problem) but I am SURE that they are not checking the fluid levels of the battery, engine coolant and tire pressures. I have to fill them after my visit to service!

I don't think they are there to serve me better. I am sure that they are doing their best to steal my money. Now the car is at 14.000 km \ 14 months, so they can't "find" any problems. Whenever the car becomes old they will do their best to rip me off.

I don't think they are following factory service manuals or using their brains (if they have one). Example: they replaced my driver seat assemble. When I get my car back, there were lots of scratches on the door sill and they break some of the plastic finish pieces on the seat. That was an authorized Nissan service.

On the other hand, I find changing oil EVERY THREE MONTHS ridiculous. I don't agree that the engine oil "looses" its properties in three months (they are changing without hesitation even if the oil is synthetic ). My plan is to take the car to the service and ask them to do specific maintenance\changes

-For engine oil and filter: I will change it every 6.000 km (3.750 miles), instead of 3 months.
-For brake fluid: I have a tool that measures the humidity. Until the fluid has %3 humidity, I will not flush the brake fluid.
-For Engine coolant: The car came with a blue engine coolant. So I will not flush it until it reaches 5 years \ 120.000 km (75.000 miles).
-For cabin filter and engine filter: I am changing them whenever they looks dirty (every year)
-For brake pads: I will wait until the front pads are close to 1.5 mm rear and 2 mm front (the thickness of the pad between the groove in the brake pad and the brake pad backing). I am planing to clean them when I remove the Winter tires each Spring.
-For drive belts: Just visual check, maybe change at 77.000 km (48.000 miles)?

Other than that, I will visially check the parts, try to be alert for any funny noises (except the shift brake solenoid ), cross my fingers and enjoy my ride.

Anyone would like to add\comment on this service schedule?

[Towncivilian]

Do not change your engine air filter that often. Filters get more restrictive as they load up with dirt. Once a year is most likely too excessive. Changing the filter also allows the possibility of more contamination as a result of the filter change process itself (dirt entering the airbox, etc). I would buy a restriction gauge and use that instead to determine when your engine air filter requires replacement.

Everything else looks good to me. You plan to use the service department for oil & filter changes. I assume this is to help maintain that oil changes were done according to the service interval should there be a need to use the warranty? Will you perform your own oil & filter changes after the warranty is up?

You're correct that 3k mi/3mo oil changes are excessive in nearly all conditions. If you do not perform many short trips (which don't allow the oil to get up to operating temperature and boil off any excessive moisture, and run the engine rich when cold contributing to fuel dilution) you can easily extend your oil change interval to 7,500 miles with a quality synthetic oil and filter.

When you do your yearly brake cleaning, be sure to re-lube the slide pins and any other contact points to help prevent squeaking and other bad things.

Don't forget to change the differentials' fluid, especially to get the break-in wear and any manufacturing crud out early. Same goes for the power steering fluid - you can use a turkey baster to siphon out the reservoir and refill with synthetic ATF for better cold weather performance and lowered operating temperatures. Is your Rogue equipped with an automatic or manual transmission?

[Qashqai]

Thank you for your response.

What is the "air restriction gauge". I made a quick research and as far as I understand large engines are equipped with that gauge (or they have a small hole for that gauge). Can I install one for the Rogue? Is it overkill? I don't know...

Until I move to a house with a garage, I will take the car to the service for the oil change. I am not to much concerned about the warranty, because as far as I know, as long as I keep the receipts of the oil and filter the warranty is valid (BUT if something happens to the engine I AM % 100 SURE that Nissan dealer will do its best to blame me not to take the car to them for regular service and maintenance...

My work is close to my home. For five days a week I drive my car just for 3-4 km. But by the time I reach my destination engine temperature reaches the regular operating temperature (after I have my surgery from my foot, I will start going to work by walking ). Do you think I should go back to 3 months interval? Maybe the oil can't boil off the moisture?

When I do my yearly brake cleaning, I will use white lithium grease for the slide pins (right?) and anti seize compound for the brakes.

My car is AWD, so it has a rear differential. what is the required service interval for its oil? I have no idea. I learned how to change it from ImStricken's recent post (and yes first I will remove the top bolt )

Rogue has an electric motor assisted steering wheel (is it what it is called?). So thank God it has no fluid to be concerned about...although there is a "motor" that can break anytime lol!

Rogue has CVT transmission as well. So that fluid has long life I think...I think...

[ImStricken06]

I don't agree that the engine oil "looses" its properties in three months

3 Months wont do much at all - especially if your actively using the car and allowing the oil through its heat cycles.
oil is naturally hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the atmosphere but i wouldn't even worry unless its a race car/bike that is used only in the summer months and sits for 7month otherwise. as you drive your oil will be misted and any moisture will burn off.
you can safely change your conventional/regular oil & filter every 4-5month or every 5,000miles

-For brake fluid: I have a tool that measures the humidity. Until the fluid has %3 humidity, I will not flush the brake fluid.

dont worry about the gauge. the color will tell you when it needs to be changed. the gauge your talking about is for those who are racing and need things down to a perfect science. brake fuild is also hygroscopic and can be used just fine for a year or two. most people will tell you every year - but most people NEVER change their fluid and auto manufacturers know this. If you want to every other year is just fine.

-For Engine coolant: The car came with a blue engine coolant. So I will not flush it until it reaches 5 years \ 120.000 km (75.000 miles).

your right, dont worry about this fluid for a while. just keep an eye on it and make sure that your car isnt running low. make sure you dont find white splatter anywhere(tell tale sign of a coolant leak)

-For cabin filter and engine filter: I am changing them whenever they looks dirty (every year)

i wouldnt place a date on these two. i could check both filters and change as needed. our engines recirculate oily air and it can begin to cake on the engine air filter. And regarding the cabin air filter = they tend to build up moisture more in the summer because of humidity and icey cold 60*degree A/C air building up moisture in the air box. Just a good idea to replace the cabin filter before summer - and the engine air filter as needed(dont date it - just check it)

-For drive belts: Just visual check, maybe change at 77.000 km (48.000 miles)?

with the drive belts, its tough. some people can drive 100,000 and some 60,000 before they have issues. its a wear item, and a visual inspection and a simple tug can tell you in the tiny cracks, and any threading if you have issues.

Do not change your engine air filter that often. Filters get more restrictive as they load up with dirt. Once a year is most likely too excessive.

careful with that advice. you said it yourself - they get more restrictive with age. I wouldnt put a date on these filters and would check it regularly. dusty area's construction on the road, a car hitting dried salt during winter, or a car hitting the yellow line and bring up sand is going to clog your filter. they are cheap, and easy to replace, so seeing some dirt, pollen, dust, sand, feathers, or oil is a good sign that its time to change your filter to give your sensors the ability to read the right temp and for your engine to not use more fuel because its air supply is choked off.

power steering fluid - you can use a turkey baster to siphon out the reservoir and refill with synthetic ATF

NO OFFENSE, BUT IF WE EVEN HAD POWER STEERING FLUID - WHICH NISSAN ROGUES DONT. WE HAVE ELECTRONIC MOTORS THAT ASSIST, I WOULDNT USE THIS ADVICE.
Sucking up from the reservoir doesnt drain the contaminated fluid in the pipes, pump, and the actual system. you would need to do this 10x's before you actually mix enough fresh fluid with the old fluid and remove enough of the dirty in the system. just do it right and refill it with POWER STEERING FLUID THAT IS INTENDED FOR OUR CAR - NOT ATF. Some cars use ATF as power steering fluid. Some do not. Mix ATF with Honda, Mercedes, Audi, VW, that use specific p/s fluid and you just ruined the system(just like you cant mix DOT5 brake fluid with a DOT 3 or 4 glycol-based fluid) it will cause hundreds of dollars to fix. Best to use what the owners manual or the dealer tell you to avoid costly repairs. Some will tell you to use ATF but they are wrong ,as I have seen the effects of using the wrong fluid and the results are expensive.

My work is close to my home. For five days a week I drive my car just for 3-4 km.

make sure you drive enough elsewhere to allow the battery to recharge the power you have taken away starting it.

My car is AWD, so it has a rear differential. what is the required service interval for its oil?

30,000miles for differential fluids & our transfer-case. If you tow, or expose your vehicle to deep waters - i would change it every 15,000miles

[Towncivilian]

Sorry, I meant to type "filters get more efficient as they load up", in addition to more restrictive obviously. I linked to a restriction gauge in my reply. A study has proven that a clogged air filter is of no consequence to fuel economy in fuel injected vehicles.

DON'T USE LITHIUM GREASE for brake parts! You must use a brake-specific grease, such as NAPA Syl-Glide. Petroleum based greases generally cannot withstand the constant extreme heat of brake hardware and will liquefy and become runny.

Nearly all Nissan vehicles with hydraulic power steering specify ATF as usable in the FSM. Both power steering fluid and automatic transmission fluid are similar hydraulic fluids, so they are usually interchangeable. Hondas should use Honda-specific PSF only, though, but I digress.

The temp gauge in the instrument cluster refers to the engine coolant. The engine oil takes longer to reach operating temperature - generally 20 minutes of driving. It's quicker if the vehicle has an oil cooler.

A two year change interval for brake fluid is reasonable in my opinion.

I'd suggest taking a lengthy highway trip weekly or so if you can to definitely get the oil up to operating temperature and boil off moisture.

[ImStricken06]

A study has proven that a clogged air filter is of no consequence to fuel economy in fuel injected vehicles.

fuel injected or not- our engines require air - the colder the better to operate at its best. if air is restricted the car will not perform at its best = thus having the ecu find ways to make up for the lost air volume(rich fuel mixture). The processes your car will go through can often lead to increased fuel use. and it can also lead to wasted fuel because there was more fuel to air in the ratio and actually causing the engine to bog-down. With the lower oxygen in the mixture, the engine will use more fuel than needed to run the engine. This will cause the mileage per gallon ratio to decrease significantly. And by keeping a rich mixture that wil keep the spark-plugs wetter than normal, causing build up and fuel molecules to be left along the cylinder walls until engine knock or pre-detonation begins..

CHECK YOUR AIR FILTER AND CHANGE IT AS OFTEN AS IT NEEDS. THE DIRTIER = THE MORE TROUBLE IT CAN BRING. dont be cheap on $25.

[Towncivilian]

Performance may suffer, but fuel economy barely does. Did you read the study I linked?

[ImStricken06]

Performance may suffer, but fuel economy barely does. Did you read the study I linked?

to be honest, no. im not even concerned about the minor mpg's that will wasted. im more concerned with engine knock or pre-detonation. thats going to cause bigger problems than anything else.
the last thing you want is an engine running rich. take a look:

[Towncivilian]

I'd just install a restriction gauge and eliminate any guesswork.

[ImStricken06]

I'd just install a restriction gauge and eliminate any guesswork.

how do you know the spring inside your's is set for the suction volume for our engines?
i wouldnt rely upon a valve originally designed for diesel engines into my rogue. to make matters worse, you gotta drill into the intake tube/pipe or box - thus tampering with the warranty if something in that area goes bad(like a throttle body)

it takes less than 3 mins to check the filter. everyone is different, do as you wish

[kerrton]

I can't imagine why your dealership would be charging you $150 for each oil change service visit, but that is ridiculous. I've been taking my Rogue to the dealer every 3-4 months since I purchased it in 2008 and each visit I've asked for the $45.00 oil change which includes a full quick check of fluids, suspension, belts, hoses etc.. The only other thing I've done at the dealership is changed my coolant at 2 years to the new blue long life and I've had them do the brake caliper service the past couple years to save my time. I change my engine air filter about every 2 years and my cabin filter once a year - I order the filters myself online and get them for cheap and install myself. I have a FWD which I really enjoy because of the simplicity and lack of maintenance requirements, but like ImStricken has pointed out the transfer case and Dif fluid replacement is quite simple.

The Rogue really has very little maintenance requirements which I think is why some dealerships create their own dealer packages and charge the heck out of people to continually check and re-check items that really don't need to be checked very often ex. suspension, front end etc.. These parts wear very slowly, are designed to last many years (i.e. 5 to 8 years for most normal suspension wear), when things start to wear out you'll notice it when driving and it won't be an urgent fix that could leave you stranded - so to check some of these things every 4 months and charge the owner is just a cash grab.

Follow your manufacturer's maintenance guide, tell your Nissan service department or indepenant garage exactly what you want/need and they'll give it to you. If all you need is an oil change, they won't charge you $150, just tell them you aren't interested in their package, you just want an oil change as per your manufacturer's schedule.

[ImStricken06]

idk any good mechanic who doesnt keep his eyes open for other problems (for free) while working on the service he was hired to do.
doing so takes sometimes a couple seconds to only a minute or two- but it will build a trusting relationship with your customer, and can end up finding a nice repair to make money on and keep your customer safe with.

If they charge you to "take a look around" thats just down right wrong. I cant even begin to tell you how many places here in NJ offer free brake checks, tire rotations, etc - because doing so, you can find something worthwhile that really needs repair.
(now if they are actually diagnosing a problem - that's a different story. that's not simply "looking around" - but you get my drift.)

what i think sQash was referring to is every time he brings in his car for a simple oil change, they find BS things to fix, lube, tighten or replace. I had this problem when i first met my girl. She would go to the dealer for an oil change and come home with a $300+ bill. I finally gained her trust and put an end to it. (i called complaining and questioning them; obviously pointing out that i know what im talking about and had her credited back over $230+ in BS services that they 'recommended at the time' for ONE service. - i can only imagine what else she was charged for prior to meeting me

[Qashqai]

Wow!!! That is why I am addicted to this forum. I asked a simple question and THREE moderators answered!

Thank you very much for your advice!

[kerrton]

I'm happy we could be of some help! We definately don't have all the answers but through some good discussion and desire to help out we'll eventually make some progress and maybe even solve a problem or two - good luck with maintaining your Rogue, appreciate the fact that it doesn't require much maintenance at all and you should have many years of trouble free driving!

[TARM]

Been working on engine longevity and performance service for a very long time now. A few things:

100% correct on using a vacuum gauge for knowing when an air filter is time for service. IUt does not matter its 100 miles or 10,000. When the filter spring gauge pulls the indicator down its time to change the filter. FYI numerous tests have been done and while power is significantly effected by vacuum draw MPG is not sigf effect until you are over well over 20" H20 vacuum. This does not mean that you should not be visually inspecting your air cleaner at each oil change for damage to it or any of the intake trac and to remove any large debris. ALways take a white cloth and wipe inside the filtered part of the air box. If its dusty then you may want to check for leaks around seals or change air filter brand.

For oil the only way to know for sure when oil NEEDS to be changed is with a (used Oil Analysis) and it take a few to get a base to know how your engine wears. I will say that with a new engine during break in I would first change it as soon as possible, say 500 miles. Then again after another 1000 miles. After that change ever 3K until break in period is up. After that I would use a Used Oil Analysis to insure that the maximum interval allowed by your warranty is OK and then use that. If you change the oil type you are using you should run a UOA again to ensure. No engine not even the beating the Ford Diesel 6.0 HPOP driven engines put on oil as its used as part of the injection system wore the oil out in 3000mile. That number was a great way to make the quick lube places tons of profit and IIRC where the whole 3K OCI likely started. Of course automotive manf are not gonna have an issue with it and soon started to follow suite when they saw people were willing to do such nonsense. With engines in good working order and proper filtration and a quality oil, I would doubt any typical street engine would ever NEED OCI under 5K-6K miles. With today's injection motors fuel contamination is far less of a issue. Oils today are made to handle temps and contamination etc far greater than the oils of the earlier 20th century and those engines would go 200K on 6K OCI.

For brake fluids its all about how hard you use them and what the fluid you use is rated for. But eventually moisture will get ALL brake fluids plain and simple. The damper area you live in the sooner you will need a flush. But if you experience ANY brake fade from hard use the fluid at those calipers has been burnt/boiled/damaged. It is almost always the front brakes so they must be bleed to remove the fluid at the caliper so a 1/4 cup is likely plenty at each caliper. Depending on where you live and condition of your brake system flushes can need to be done as soon as a year up to 2 years for optimum performance. But the best way is with a moisture gauge if you really want to be exact about it. But as was said that is something you see more at the tracks than with every day drivers.

For brakes pad replacement just make sure to clean up your rotors with a scotch brite pad or emery cloth to de-glaze them and get them ready for rebedding with the new pads. You can do a search for how to properly bed new brake pads. There is a specific process and it has a significant effect on brake perf and life. Always check rotors for being flat(no warpage) NO need to turn rotors unless there is enough warpage unless you like buying new rotors sooner.

Tires IMO get them rotated and rebalance with each oil change is a good rule of thumb. Use nitrogen if at all possible. Places like COSTCO using only nitrogen here in the states along with free rotation and balance for the life of the tires. As such they are good place if they carry the tires you want to use. Find out the tire pressure that gets you the most even tread contact with the ground. The chalk method is the simplest. (Look it up.) Once you have the tire pressure for those specific tires make sure to tell the mechanic that does your rotations to set them at that pressure or slightly over then you can bring them down to that exact level yourself if you want to be exact.

[ImStricken06]

tarm, welcome to the forum! lost of great info.

glad you agree that some gauges dont belong in the hands of average drivers simply because they are to specific to matter to average drivers.
i personally think that a vacuum gauge is a waste - because like you said, WITH EVERY OIL CHANGE, CHECK YOUR FILTER.

[TARM]

For transmission with the CVT and the way the warranty reads I would use exactly what they tell you to and when. Normally I would say use a full syn POA based fluid but in this case not so much LOL as warranty is more important and I am sure they Nissan wants these trannys to last in this situation.

Gear differential oils: Like engine break ins can cause initial metals to be released into the fluids same with gears and much more so usually. I would do them with one of the first few oil changes and then after that do once per year depending on how you drive and the loads you carry. Use the recommend weight but I personally like syn fluids for everything here is not different. My personal preference is Schaffers but they are hard to get for most. Again a UOA tells you whats really going on with lubrication fluids.

For suspension and steering components If you have any that are not sealed. Make sure for follow proper greasing schedules. If your vehicle has the wheels (suspension parts submerged in water for any period of time then all fittings should be greased again.

Sorry I do not know for sure whats on the Rogue as I am purchasing the first one for my father tomorrow.

[TARM]

tarm, welcome to the forum! lost of great info.

glad you agree that some gauges dont belong in the hands of average drivers simply because they are to specific to matter to average drivers.
i personally think that a vacuum gauge is a waste - because like you said, WITH EVERY OIL CHANGE, CHECK YOUR FILTER.

Thanks for the welcome. Sorry I did not do a official introduction post first. Yes I do agree with your comments. The only reason I like the vacuum gauge is for those that tend to be lazy when it comes to harder that should be to open air boxes. I have unfortunately learned that there is always a lowest common denominator factor and you have to account for it when posting. You just can not count on common sense being a given these days. The comments are not meant towards anyone just general observations of where society as a whole has devolved to. LOL

I am trying to dig up an very good article on the effects of proper engine break-in on overall power and performance. It was as far as I can recall first seen in motorcycle engines or at least that is what was first published to the public and then larger engines. Maybe it had to do with the higher RPM thus shorter lives of these engines allows for less skewing from other variables. If I can find it I will post it.

[Rogue One]

A study has proven that a clogged air filter is of no consequence to fuel economy in fuel injected vehicles.

fuel injected or not- our engines require air - the colder the better to operate at its best. if air is restricted the car will not perform at its best = thus having the ecu find ways to make up for the lost air volume(rich fuel mixture). The processes your car will go through can often lead to increased fuel use. and it can also lead to wasted fuel because there was more fuel to air in the ratio and actually causing the engine to bog-down. With the lower oxygen in the mixture, the engine will use more fuel than needed to run the engine. This will cause the mileage per gallon ratio to decrease significantly. And by keeping a rich mixture that wil keep the spark-plugs wetter than normal, causing build up and fuel molecules to be left along the cylinder walls until engine knock or pre-detonation begins..

CHECK YOUR AIR FILTER AND CHANGE IT AS OFTEN AS IT NEEDS. THE DIRTIER = THE MORE TROUBLE IT CAN BRING. dont be cheap on $25.

Oh most definately! I recently replaced my OEM air filter (15k service) with one I got off eBay, and I can assure you there is a marked improvement in both mpg's and performance. Rogue One is even more fun to drive now!

[ImStricken06]

tarm, welcome to the forum! lost of great info.

glad you agree that some gauges dont belong in the hands of average drivers simply because they are to specific to matter to average drivers.
i personally think that a vacuum gauge is a waste - because like you said, WITH EVERY OIL CHANGE, CHECK YOUR FILTER.

Thanks for the welcome. Sorry I did not do a official introduction post first. Yes I do agree with your comments. The only reason I like the vacuum gauge is for those that tend to be lazy when it comes to harder that should be to open air boxes. I have unfortunately learned that there is always a lowest common denominator factor and you have to account for it when posting. You just can not count on common sense being a given these days. The comments are not meant towards anyone just general observations of where society as a whole has devolved to. LOL

I am trying to dig up an very good article on the effects of proper engine break-in on overall power and performance. It was as far as I can recall first seen in motorcycle engines or at least that is what was first published to the public and then larger engines. Maybe it had to do with the higher RPM thus shorter lives of these engines allows for less skewing from other variables. If I can find it I will post it.

TARM I REMEMBER READING THAT ARTICLE!!!
this guy right?

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

this was an awesome write-up, that i absolutely believe in. rip into that engine and allow those piston rings to bed in & seat right.
TARM LETS NOT START THIS ON THIS THREAD, LETS DO THIS ON A NEW THREAD IM GOING TO START! great topic!