My clutch is very very soft. Help!

[mmaxeyjr]

I just installed a exedy oem replacement clutch kit. (Pressure plate, clutch disc, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing) Replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and put in an spl braided clutch line, as well as replaced the rear main seal.

We bled the clutch until there was an even stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder valve at the slave, but the pedal never got stiff. The clutch engages perfect and drives perfect but the pedal is so soft I can barely tell i'm pushing it in.

edit: car is a 1995 240sx ka24de and clutch dampner box is removed.

Suggestions?

thanks

[mmaxeyjr]

bump

[VNG704]

iirc, i bleed until the clutch is firm. try rebleeding it. Besides that, I'd say your slave but you replaced that already.

Edit: There is another bleeding nipple. Follow the line from the slave, you'll see it. It is kinda on the body. I bled both and back and forth until the pedal was firm.

[mmaxeyjr]

found out that the slave seal slowly went bad. picked up a new one installed it. clutch now has the pressure but it doesnt want to come up to the top on it's own... what can i do

[Jdmstyles]

you have to bleed it thoroughly. When the clutch pedal gets stuck to the floor just use your hands to pump it. Get a friend to help you bleed it. It will take a while but eventually you will feel it stiffen up.

[mmaxeyjr]

what i'm saying is that we have been bleeding it for 20++ minutes and there is no air or anything. and it has plenty of pressure however every single time we push the clutch down we have to pull it up with our hand other wise it just sticks on the floor. on occasion it will go half way up on its own but it doesnt make it all the way up..

[Jdmstyles]

Check and see if you installed your slave cylinder / lines correctly. There's no reason why it would stick to the floor after 20 minutes of pumping and bleeding. You didn't add enough fluid maybe? If it still doesn't work, flush out all the fluid and re-do it again.

[VNG704]

It's the second bleeding nipple you have to bleed from. It is a valve for some safety reason nissan put it there. Either bypass it or bleed it. It will take a long time if you don't have a speed bleeder of some sort. Local auto parts store should carry these.

I had to bleed the nipple on the slave forever and the fluid was coming out clean and whatever but found info on the second nipple/valve, I then bled that one. It was bleeding out dirty fluid. I bled that one and the slave nipple back and forth until the pedal was firm.

Edit, sorry I just saw that you have the dampener box removed. I think that is what I was talking about. If it is then, sorry can't help you but g/l with that.

[mmaxeyjr]

The only bleeder valve I know of is the one on the slave cylinder..

The pedal sticks to the floor. I dont know what to do anymore. I tried bleeding it more, I replaced the slave cylinder. Anyone have anymore suggestions?

[moso]

its possible the ball behind the clutch fork broke off inside the bellhouseing. altho im confused on how it would still be working. but its something to look at. also did you compare the old stuff with the new stuff, is it possible you ended up with a larger master/slave somehow?

[mmaxeyjr]

I actually replaced the slave, master, and the Clutch line all at the same time. Its a possibility it could be the master I'm going to replace that tomorrow hopefully

Also it could be just the adjustments on the pedal and master rod are off. Does anyone know exact specs? What should I be doing to make it perfect

[VNG704]

well, if you never had the other bleeder valve bypassed then that is the one you need to bleed from also. Have you looked? Like I said, follow the clutch line that goes from the slave to the other valve located on the body of the car. It's like less then a foot away from the slave. You'll see the nipple to bleed from.

If you already bypassed this valve totally, look for leaks. Have someone step on the clutch 3x and hold it down and you look under the car for spills. if there are no spills then it probably just needs to be bled some more... yes, more.

[moso]

you should put the pedal up and twist the master push rod until there is pressure holding the pedal up, then back it off about half a twist or so. just enough so you can juggle the pin that holds it to the pedal. if it was set really loose its possible you still have air in the master.

[mmaxeyjr]

well i changed out the said "new master cylinder' from advance auto and replaced it with my used OEM one and now the pedal is much better, driveable, but it still doesnt want to come up like it should. Sometimes theres a delay and then other times it just wont come back up.

Also my clutch engagement sucks. It engages in gear all the way at the top of the pedal.. How should it be? Which way do I turn the rod in order for it to go lower, or go higher??

And other times the stiffness is softer and other times harder

Thanks

[seang]

So, did you bypass the stupid clutch damper or what?

[WOLFANATOR13]

if the pressure in the pedal fluctuates then there is still air in the line somewhere. also low quality fluid can lead to a "mushy" pedal feel. try some good DOT 4 fluid. fully drain the system first . let it all gravity bleed, then fill it up. gravity style. call me you can use my garage today, ill be home and free. and can help.

[mmaxeyjr]

So, did you bypass the stupid clutch damper or what?

the damper box has been gone

[spenka]

i have been having the same issue with my f1 clutch and fidanza 11lb flywheel. i just got a message on the forum asking if i removed the clutch block and if not i should. now im looking to find out what and where is this clutch block..... good luck with yours too.

[seang]

i have been having the same issue with my f1 clutch and fidanza 11lb flywheel. i just got a message on the forum asking if i removed the clutch block and if not i should. now im looking to find out what and where is this clutch block..... good luck with yours too.

This might help you...http://garage.projectraine.com....html

[mmaxeyjr]

found out it had a very tiny leak where the clutch line connects to the slave cylinder. keep in mind I'm using an spl parts braided clutch line which is brand new. didn't come with a copper crush washer which is a big reason it's failing I believe.

[compactfean]

Here is a fix for everyone's problem! Yes there is a clutch stop. It is mounted to stop the clutch from coming all the way up. It screwed in under the dash. It has a rubber pad that rests against the clutch pedal arm further up than the pedal. remove it. If problem still persists then loosen the nut to the clutch mc. After you have loosened the nut Thread the shaft of the mc outward (assuming its all the way in) by hand 1 full turn at a time. Push the clutch pedal inbetween each turn. The clutch will go to the floor until you turn it just enough for the right adjustment. Once you reach optimal pedal real tighten the nut. My friend just spent a ton of money on slave and master and had the same problem until I showed him how to adjust it. If you are confused please let me know.

[gingerbredman]

I replaced my clutch (w/F1 clutch) not too long as well and had the same problem.. I basically did what everyone did: bleed, bleed, bleed and got no pressure. I didn't remove the dampener box btw.

So, pissed off, I got on the floorboard and pumped the clutch pedal by hand like the Hulk on crack and after a minute or 2 it got pressure, and has maintained pressure till this day..

I dunno, the 240sx works in mysterious ways.. anyways, that worked for me, maybe it will for someone else, GL

[mmaxeyjr]

We re-flared the clutch hardline and put a copper crush washer on the slave with the SPL clutch line and tightened it up. got pressure then pedal slowly faded. small leak. keeps happening over and over cant get it right. dont know what to do pedal sticks to the floor after a while