My Clutch/Flywheel Story

[Sentientbydesign]

Dum dum dum...

Black text= Clutch StoryRed text= my weekend

Ok, so engine was out during the summer and replaced for oil consumption via warranty. While the engine was out, the dealership told me that my clutch and flywheel were toast. There were supposedly metal shavings, hot spots on the flywheel, and the clutch disk was toast.

They offered to do a new install for $170 labor plus the price of the parts ($1800 OEM, $1300 aftermarket). Tony (riverside infiniti) asked my service guys if the flywheel could be resurfaced and they said no (makes sense considering how deep the flywheel IS scored).

At the time, I didn't have $1500 to do a clutch/flywheel swap so I told them I'd have to pass. As time progresses, my clutch isn't grabbing as well and I'm starting to smell the ominous clutch disc smell. I call around and do some research and decide on an RPS CYN-R-G segmented flywheel and an RPS street clutch.

I wanted to do the swap myself, but after talking to Steve and a few others, I determined that the only feasible way to do the change was with a lift (I don't have one!). So I started looking for a place to do the swap and also contacted RPS to make sure I was getting the right clutch for my driving style. One of the reps there was SUPER friendly and helpful and suggested I contact Specialty Z to buy/install the combo. He said that Specialty Z was very familiar with their line of products and with my G.

I contacted them and they gave me a GREAT deal on the combo and install.

Well, here's where things get interesting... Friday, big work project. Saturday San Diego NICO meet + a bunch of kit installs. Sunday computer fair to start building a few rigs for my mom's new business.

Since the computer show was in Pomona (on the way to LA), I thought, Hell, I'll just drop off the car at Specialty Z since we're half way there...FAIL!

We get to the show late and when I check google maps, I realize that Chattsworth is WAY on the North West side of LA.

So I drop my car off and Crystal drives me home (2 hour drive). I'm now without a car and my car is 95 miles away in BFE.

I'm frantic yesterday trying to figure out who I'm going to ask to drive me back to my car. I text a couple of friends and they're busy or unavailable. My back up option is my father-in-law, but if he took me I'd have to worry about him killing us in one of his scary a$$ cars (69 VW Rabbit, 93 Toyota p/u truck that sounds and feels like it will dismantle itself) AND taking 3 hours to drive their (he drives about 1 mph faster than the tractor trailers-literally). Oh, did I mention is started raining after we got home on Sunday?

I finally try to hitch a ride with my mom and her bf because they're going to the city of Industry to pick up some computer parts and that's "Half way" . I'm happy at this point because things should fall into place nicely. FAIL 2! Computer place has stuff on back order and realistically there's NO reason to go pick up the stuff. My mom was nice enough to go out there anyways to pick up the computer stuff that was available, then drive another 40 miles to pick up my car.

I get to Specialty Z and I talk to Seb (really nice guy btw). We talk about the condition of the old parts (which I wanted back for comparison and weight measurement). He tells me the old combo was nasty to drive on and was really starting to slip (yeah...I know). I asked if it was a POS eBay flywheel and he says "No, it's a JWT flywheel"

Why didn't the dealership just tell me that and let me pay the $65 for a new friction plate? I could have have the whole clutch job for $550-$750 instead of the $1500 they were quoting me. That made me MAD.

So now, I have a JWT flywheel that I can't use (The RPS has replacable friction surface too). So I'm going to sell it and see if I can recoupe a little of my money.

Email me if any of you want the flywheel. I'm going to replace the friction plate and possibly get new bolts for it.

I'm going to wait a couple of days to give my feedback on this clutch/flywheel combo. I'm still having issues engaging it because my engagement point moved from 1/2" from the top of the pedal travel to 1" from the bottom of the pedal travel (more of how it should be).

Car felt slow last night, but then I realized that my ECU was reset when they pulled power, so...yeah...I need to pull a jacko and teach my car who's boss.

It chatters less often. Rev matches and rpm drops seem MUCH faster and I can now hear my engine over the transmission (YAY!)

I'll post up pictures of the old clutch disc and flywheel. Flywheel is still in great condition (minus the friction plate. that thing is TOAST). Clutch was worn to the rivets.

We left Riverside at 3:30 and I didn't get back home until

[joe603]

How do you like the startup? After I put on the light flywheel and new clutch, she starts like an Indy race car!

I've heard that the JWT flywheels are crazy loud...

I really hope the chatter goes away...and God help you if you have the RPMs down below 1k and in a higher gear than 1st...sounds like you're killing something.

I also have issues if I don't give it more gas when stopped. The car bucks like crazy...it's like I'm a newbe to standard tranys.

[Sentientbydesign]

I've had to deal with most of that since I got my car lol. I seriously thought the transmission was a pile of shavings when I got it because of the horrible sound it makes in the lower RPMs. It's like you have a fast, sexy, coupe that sounds like a big rig . The RPS hasn't given me that feeling yet, so we'll see.

I don't remember what a stock flywheel sounds like at startup I did notice that my engine sounds MUCH louder when I rev match though heheh. I also broke loose without much effort last night on quite a few occasions (it was cold and wet).

[CYO44Baseball32]

JWT sounds like a big diesel truck. Its nice though bc the clutch catches lower, just wish they had a stage 4 puck clutch out for the G37

[Jacko3]

Very interesting story. Yep, when you add new parts, you go Jacko on the car until it behaves.

I am gonna try to see if they are going to change my clutch again with OEM setup for much less. If not, its NISMO flywheels and OEM clutch assy.

Oh, wait until you install test pipes, the only way you drive the G is by tapping the gas pedal, which makes it moves slightly fatser, and then you let the speed reduce a little and then you tap it again, and then repeat the same cycle over and over again. Its hard to drive the car with testpipes with a consistent pedal input without the car going over the speed limit. Even then, with constant input, the CEL might come on.

[Sentientbydesign]

Jacko,

Test pipes will never touch my car. As much as I like wasting gas for play, I'll never take steps to pollute more. Just not me.

As for the flywheel...you could buy the JWT from me instead of going with the Nismo You shed another 3 lbs by going that route plus never have to worry about buying another flywheel again!

UPDATE: I believe that the old clutch was slipping more than I gave it credit. Having the new combo makes the whole drivetrain seem a lot more solid. It doesn't ride as comfortable (still haven't gotten the engagement point down yet), but power goes down much nicer and spinning the rears is easy. I got them to spin from a roll in 2nd last night and the pavement was relatively dry.

[4drmadness]

that sucks that the dealership guys didnt tell you that you could just get a new friction plate. oh well. just sell the jwt and that kinda should give you back a shiny penny.Happy Holidays

[zozoka1212]

Glad all worked out for you.

All these talks get me the itch to go testdrive a manual on the weekend. Not sure what brand I should try.

Zozo

[G_whizz]

Its nice though bc the clutch catches lower, just wish they had a stage 4 puck clutch out for the G37

Doesa that matter?? Can't a clutch adjustment be done anyways??

[Sentientbydesign]

I don't think the clutch adjustment will do a drastic move of the engagement point. I remember asking a mechanic to move it on the wife's car and they couldn't.

[C-Kwik]

I don't think the clutch adjustment will do a drastic move of the engagement point. I remember asking a mechanic to move it on the wife's car and they couldn't.

Assuming its a pretty typical master cylinder set-up, there should be a pretty big range of adjustment available. However, on a couple of earlier Nissans I've played with, there was a limit to how high you can have the pedal as the M/C had some sort of a check valve built into the piston which opened completely when allowed to travel far enough back to contact a pin that opened the valve. If it wasn't allowed to contact the pin, it would build up pressure in the system to the point it would not be able to fully disengage until you either waited until fluid seeped back out of the pressurized portion, or you manually adjusted it back to the point it hits the pin and opens the valve. Not sure if they are still using such a system, but it was a pain to deal with. As far as I can tell though, even if it has this system in place, you can still lower the engagement point as much as you want.

[RED_DET]

I hope you broke that clutch in before you went out reaming on it.....

[Sentientbydesign]

Reaming on engine? YES!

Reaming on clutch/flywheel? NO!

I was told to do a lot of stop and go driving for 200+ miles. I've put more miles on the clutch than that, but they have been mostly freeway so I'm still in "break-in" mode. I rarely over slip or launch the car anyways, so I'm not too concerned.

[Jacko3]

Assuming its a pretty typical master cylinder set-up, there should be a pretty big range of adjustment available. However, on a couple of earlier Nissans I've played with, there was a limit to how high you can have the pedal as the M/C had some sort of a check valve built into the piston which opened completely when allowed to travel far enough back to contact a pin that opened the valve. If it wasn't allowed to contact the pin, it would build up pressure in the system to the point it would not be able to fully disengage until you either waited until fluid seeped back out of the pressurized portion, or you manually adjusted it back to the point it hits the pin and opens the valve. Not sure if they are still using such a system, but it was a pain to deal with. As far as I can tell though, even if it has this system in place, you can still lower the engagement point as much as you want.

Ckwik, thats right!

My awesome Tech, whom by the way I am gonna buy a Christmas gift, did adjust my pedal so that the engagement point was shorter than normal. I love it. The only problem is that the pedal at the fulcrum will not always come out, at least when the car is still cool and when you drive it gently---so you have to tap it out with a small nudge with your feet from the back of the pedal. But once the car warms up properly after few minutes of spirited driving, the pedal works perfectly. And it seems to have improved my response at take-off from a dead stop by a small amount.

I am getting used to all the quirks in the G-35 Coupe 6MT and I am loving it---nothing surprises me anymore. It is truely a strange car to operate. But I love it---that makes it twice as fun to drive.

[Sentientbydesign]

This is just my opinion, but I would think that your issue is a problem, not just a side effect.

I hope you don't try to blame that adjustment on your premature clutch wear and try to get the dealership to warranty another clutch. That's just

[Jacko3]

Red:

When my clutch was replaced in August/September this year, the day I received the car back, I went out to ream on it, immediately. To keep me away from my G for a few hours or days, is reason to ream on the clutch once I get a hold of the car.

[Sentientbydesign]

Red:

When my clutch was replaced in August/September this year, the day I received the car back, I went out to ream on it, immediately. To keep me away from my G for a few hours or days, is reason to ream on the clutch once I get a hold of the car.

They didn't tell you that the clutch needed to be broken in first?

Glazing is very easy to do on a brand new clutch. It's no different than breaking in new brakes. They should have told you that.

[Jacko3]

Whatever gets me another clutch work done before warranty is up, at $500 or less, is all i care about.

[Jacko3]

Nope! No one told me a thing about glazing. They smiled, shook my hand, and sent me on my merry good way to go have fun.

[C-Kwik]

I am getting used to all the quirks in the G-35 Coupe 6MT and I am loving it---nothing surprises me anymore. It is truely a strange car to operate. But I love it---that makes it twice as fun to drive.

To be honest, the quirks you seem to mention likely are because of the things you do to your car. I never had any quirky behavior out of my G when I had one. In fact, it behaved just as any performance minded vehicle should. Adjusting the clutch pedal out of the specified range is just that. Its not a quirk of the car. Put it back where it should be and the "quirk" will go away...

[Jacko3]

When I first bought the car, the transmission would shudder. Well, that has gone away by itself. The seat seems to make creeky noises under stress and it seems to move a little when in curves. The rear axles started clicking for no reason--that was fixed under warranty. My rear passenger side reverse light bulb burnt out---replaced under warranty. I had nothing to do with all of this, but I am still comfortable with the car as is. I love it as is.

[CYO44Baseball32]

Doesa that matter?? Can't a clutch adjustment be done anyways??

I'd want the stage 4 just so i could put more power to the wheels and so i got that racing clutch, aka keep my dad and girlies from driving my car

dont think it affects catch point, even though JWT did make my clutch catch lower lol

[joe603]

...The seat seems to make creeky noises under stress and it seems to move a little when in curves.

Mine did too...I had the dealership fix it. They replaced the seat track. Good as new now

[Jacko3]

if I had my way, i would get them to replace the seat cover as well.

[joe603]

If it's torn, there is a TSB related to that.

Is it ripped where it meets the plastic? Mine was and they replaced the cover (before the seat track on another visit)

[Jacko3]

Driver's seat is cracking everywhere.

[C-Kwik]

Make sure you are using a good leather conditioner on the seats regularly. Makes a huge difference in the life of leather. Dry leather can crack fairly easily. You need to keep it conditioned in order for it to remain pliable and resilient.

[Jacko3]

Okay.

[CYO44Baseball32]

^^ nice post, lol just wanted to get that 2100 huh

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

I have to have the clutch done in my G35... The tech said that I needed to go stock clutch replacement. What do you guys think I should do. I don't want the G to sound like a big rig!

DJ