My car stereo upgrade idea, will it work?

[AZ94Q]

http://www.bigbangelectronics....S6500

I was thinking of using component all the way around. This would leave me with an extra pair of tweeters I could mount somewhere in the rear..

Would this work, using component all the way around?

I would basically order this twice??

Will 6.5 inch fit in the 4 inch stock door speaker locations?

[AZ94Q]

I'm kind of dumb when it comes to this stuff, so these questions may be newb material

Do I need two amps, one to power the sub, and the other to power the component speakers? I don't want the head unit to power the speakers.

So at this point I would hook up a tweeter and midrange to a crossover which goes to the amp as one channel so all the tweets and mids would take up all 4 channels on that amp

since its a 100watt x 4 channel each set of tweets and mids would get 100watts of power

Then I would get another amp to power the sub..??

I'm refering to this amp:http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/...s.htm

This component setup:http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/...s.htm

[shadedoc]

These questions might get a better response from the NICO car audio forum http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....id=99

However to answer your questions. The 6.5 would be a nice selection for the Q. You will need to remove the Bose speaker assembly (speaker/amp/plastic enclosure) and make an adapter plate (1/4) plastic should work well. I would look at buying a set of components for the front, mid drivers for the rear (they should be available seperately w/o tweeters), and a sealed or simple sported sub for the trunk. You could buy a component set for the rear, but remember the tweeters are very directional, and as such must be aimed at the seated positon for best results. You will need to make an adapter plate for the rears as well. If you are looking at a 4x100 amp to drive the components, you will need a second amp for the sub.

IMHO it is not important to match components by brand, but rater by your listening taste. Try to get a listen to the components you are looking at. Nothing wrong with going with matched brand, just not #1 on my list.

Remember, the Bose(Clarion) Head Unit in you Q is not directly compatible with the components you are looking at. You will need to invest in a nice aftermarket HU.

I recently put a late 90's Sony ES HU in my Q. I used CDT 6.5 components up front with Infinity 6x9s in the rear. These are driven by a Sony XM5046-ES (50wattx4ch amp), and I am using a Sony XM4026-ES bridged to run a porterd JBL 12 sub. Not alot of power for a sub by most standards, but I was looking for some nice fill, not to rattle the rusty body pannels on the car next to me. I know someone is going to point out that alot of it is Sony(Oops....brand matching). Hey, whatever your taste. I like the older Sony ES stuff, what can I say.

[AZ94Q]

Shade,

Thanks..

Maybe it would be bettet to go with the components in the front, and 6x9 speakers in the rear.. I want good sound quality, I like bas, but clarity and EQ is my main priority.

Do you think tweeters in the rear, are worth it? I could mount them somewhere in the rear pillar, which would be directionaly angled towards the rear seats.. I guess if that isn't a good additional for the overall sound quality in the cabin, it isn't worth pursuing..

Do you think this would be sufficient:

6 1/2 components in front.6x9 speakers in rear

If I didn't get component in the rears, I could get away with 1 100x4 amp, powering everything including the sub?

[NY94J30]

You do not want to run compnents in the rear. Tweeters in the rear will ruin the imaging for your front stage. Go with the 6x9s if you use anthing at all.

If you want to use just one amp and save yourself the trouble of a dsitribution block and extra wiring, get a 5 channel (which is likely going to underpower anything but an efficient driver), or get a 4 channel, save the money on a second amp and run the rear channels bridged to your sub and the rears to the deck for fill or dont even run rear fill.

Just some things to think about

[AZ94Q]

Thank you for the comments, very informative..

Based on your info, here is what i came up with. All suggestions appreciated!!

Front: http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/...s.htm

I will put the tweeters where the 94+ tweeters are located, in the pillars. Or do you guys think there may be a better location?

Rear:http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/...s.htm

Amp:http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/...s.htm

Sub:http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/...s.htm

I am still deciding on head units, right now I'm favoring the CD-500, if I can order and use a non US version. I will still have to have a seperate SAT radio unit, but oh well..

What else do I need?

Would this amp:http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/...s.htm

be sufficient to drive the rear/front components and the sub? I would have to use the deck in combination with the amp?

What would be the ideal power setup for the setup I've desribed?

[ScottJackson]

The only way I can see a 6.5" speaker fitting the front is if you take out the bose boxes and just put in a flat plate. That's all fine and dandy but then you've went from ported enclosure to free air. Max, and I do mean maximum, size you can put in the front boxes as far as I can tell is 5.25". I would go this route if it were me. In fact, I am. I ordered some JBL GTO 5.25" component seperates off ebay for $35 for the set. If you've got the money to burn, you may want to get Nakamichi, Focal, MB Quart... I would mount the tweeters on the pillars in the front. If you get an efficient component set (one that has light cones such as non pressed paper) I don't think you'll need an amp. Amps are nice though, the cleaner the power, the better and an amp is just that, lots of clean power. For the rear, you could probably get some decent 6X9s. I used Cadence Ultra Drive 6X9s for $50 from ebay and like them. While I had the back shelf out, I took out the center compartment. I'm going to install a bandpass box in the trunk with a single 12" and have the port tube vent into the open square. My only amp is going to be my cheapie Profile California 1200watt. It's cheap, simple, and works just fine for bass. I may add a midsize 300watt 4 channel amp for the other 4 speakers at some time. My headunit is a clarion which I like but I don't like all the lights it has. I've only had it installed for a week and I want something more tasteful like Nakamichi... although due to $ will probably end up using Blaupunkt.

[ScottJackson]

and the sub, you don't need a great brand name sub. It's almost all in the box. I don't like using bandpass boxes because they are "boomy" and aren't linear in volume over the frequency range of the driver. I prefer sealed boxes with a huge amp. The only problem with the Q or any car with a sealed off trunk is that you need to get the bass into the passenger compartment. This means an opening somewhere that is exposed to either the woofer cone or a port tube such as with a ported or bandpass box. Make sure you use a box with 3/4" MDF that's the right size for the sub you're using. If you want to save some $ on the sub but still get a pretty good woofer similar to the Nak that you linked, maybe try a Lanzar DC10 or 12. I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12 and like it a lot. They go for $130 or so on ebay. Also, the Pioneer Premier subs are nice and not too pricey. Remember, a 15" sub has nearly double the cone area of a 12" so if you can fit one, go for it. CerwinVega has some decent 15s for smaller boxes like the IT15

[AZ94Q]

Thanks for the info...

So you're saying it would be better to go with 5.25 and retain the bose housing/grills?

So I should go with a 5.25 component.. http://store.epayright.com/sps5200.html

6.9s in the rear... 10 inch sub and an amp.. Luckily this nak stuff sounds great, and isn't that expensive..

thanks for the warning on the size.. I don't want to order all this stuff, and be told I can't use it.. I guess I would rather retain the original grill/housing..

[AZ94Q]

I can put the tweeters directly into the pillars, since they have their own enclosings right? I don't need to get the tweeter grills from a 94 or anything...

I noticed you said it was important on the speakers, to have the ported enclosers, and not just free air.. This doesn't apply to the tweeters, because they have their own grills, correct?

[NY94J30]

Here's what I would do in regards to the fronts, pull the door panel, take a template w/ the mounting diameter of the 6.5s on it to the plate. I don't think theres any reason they wont fit. After seeing that the 6.5 fits, pull the plate that the bose 4 inch is mounted in and cut an MDF adapter to size, mount the 6.5 in the mdf plate and youre good to go.

The mid-bass on a 6.5 as compared to a 5.25 is no contest.

By the way, that Nakamichi amp looks good, but you can find something in that power range for cheaper - kicker, rf, mtx...

[Q-less]

I would not use anything other than the port-box already in the front doors. I put infinity-kappas in; just cut away the plastic to make them fit and used a hot glue gun to make a tight seam around the speakers...better than new. A bigger, better speaker still in a port-box...sounds great. All of the original wires are intact, I just lined new wires from all of my new speakers so if I ever resold it I can put all the BOSE back in it...since a majority views BOSE as the superior. I did retain the BOSE in the front pilars, again I just rewired them; I kept them since they were still good and sounded clear...I'll replace them though when I blow them. The only thing is the pillar speakers run off the same bose amp as the door speakers...when you take out the amp rewire there or better yet straight from the pillar speakers. Double-din units were more than I wanted to spend so I used a sony headunit that pushes 220 along with another 220 amp in the trunk pushing my rear speakers....just enough with no ridiculous vibration. I found a din sized pop-out cup/change holder out of a volvo or saab and installed it under the radio (I would love to share pics of this, I know a lot of people complain about a lack of cup-holders in the pre 97 Q's.) If someone can explain to me how to upload pics here at NICO I'll share. I love my sound system and so does everyone else who listens to it....crystal clear with no distortion on the highest volume. I've said before and I know many people stick to their guns (BOSE), but BOSE is the bible of Paul Harvey's religion and many will never see the light.

[NY94J30]

You can keep the ported box, but know that in terms of linear response infinitie baffle is ideal. So the SQ will not be improved by a ported enclosure, though the low end response may be improved.

[AZ94Q]

So you guys think 6.5s will fit in the door, while retaining the original bose grills/enclosures.. so everything would look the same, except the new head unit/tweeters..

[NY94J30]

6.5s will absolutely fit, the question is will they fit in the ported enclosure? I doubt that.

Heres a picture of the enclosure on the J

http://carstereohelp.com/stere...k.htm

Keep in mind the OEM is a 4 inch driver, I don't see 1.25" inches on either side.

My thought is that a good pair of 6.5s - installed well -will more than make up for the ported effect with more cone area and larger motor as to the midbass , and that moreover, the linearity of an infinite baffle design in a well made baffle will provide you better SQ.

[AZ94Q]

The Q45s speaker grills on the doors, look way larger then the Js.. too bad 6.5s won't fit in the stock enclosures..

So you guys think 6.5s would be much better then 5.25, even though you couldn't use the stock enclosures..

Basically the gains from going from a 5.25 to a 6.5 would easily offset the loss of the stock enclosing?

Thank you for all the info, it's so helpfull!

[ayjay]

ya, if installed properly though... big jump in midbass from the 5.25" to the 6.5", dunno how much more work it will be but it'll be worth it

[AZ94Q]

Thanks for all the help/advice everyone..

I just installed the Roady XM sat radio on my other Q.. I was realling missing out, I'll never go without sat in a car ever..

Amazing..

Anyone using the XM Commander?

The HU I want doesn't have built in Sat radio, but I don't want a roady type unit in my next q.. I want something that takes up another din, and looks like a HU.. the commander seems to fit the bill

[ScottJackson]

Ok, I think free air 6.5" is not as good as enclosed 5.25". I've heard both. Not in same car though so it's not scientific or anything. If you can find a way to enclose the 6.5" in a box appropriate size, you'd be much farther ahead of a 5.25". I think that will be a problem though unless you're really handy with fiberglass and molds. Remember if you do such a thing to make clearance for the window track like the back of the factory Bose box does or your window won't go more than like 2/3 down. I think Nak would be nice in the front. For sub, no need to spend the money on a Nak, same with amp. With back 6X9s, it's up to you. I vote for a 12" sub minimum. With the amount of mid and high you get with the other stuff, you'll want a sub big enough to not strain it's little spider to death just to provide the bottom end support you want. Seriously, a 15 isn't too big. Now 18" and 24" subs, yeah, you better have some 8" or 10" to fill in the gap. Some say 15s are "sloppy," yeah, if you've got them in an improperly sized box or bandpass box and expect it to make higher punchier bass. If you're going sealed enclosure I recommend a 15, if going ported or bandpass, a 12.

[AZ94Q]

Scott,

I concur regarding the Nak Amp.. It's simply too much for a 4 channel amp.. However, I think the components/rears/subs are fairly priced.. Although i dont know, so maybe they arn't

Here is a breakdown, let me know what you think of each piece/price.. Again im no expert on this stuff, so thank you for your suggestions, and feel free to give more I was debating the 10 vs 12, and I think the 12 is good. I'm not a bass whore, but i don't want to miss any lines either. I will have someone installing my setup, so I am unsure of the 6.5 vs 5 door debate right now.. pain in the ***

Nak 12 inch subhttp://www.bndonline.com/adnet1/naspju1bne12.html

Nak 6x9 Rear speakershttp://www.bndonline.com/adnet1/naspju1pbrne.html

Nak 6.5 componentshttp://store.epayright.com/sps6500.html

Nak 5.25 componentshttp://www.bigbangelectronics....S5200

I think all the components are fairly priced, considering the audiophile quality... I do think the amp is over priced..

Is it possible to run one amp for the rear speakers/front components, and the sub? Would it give enough power for everything, or should I get two amps?

What do you think about the prices for the above components..

Thanks for all the advice..

BTW: the price diff between the 5.25 and 6.5 is negligeble.. It would be the fabrication costs, that are unknown.. I would like the 6.5, but not if it isn't installed properly, and suffers sound quality.. I have no idea about this stuff, so I guess I have to trust whoever I take it to..

[gloucester Q]

az-sorry no time for pics of the tweeters today. you are on the same path i was on 6 months ago. 6.5 nakamichi's will definitely fit the door on the q. i did exactly as someone here has recommended, and i'm sure your shop will do the same: use the enclosure as a mounting template, then jig-saw it out. i used 1/4 inch plywood, thinking of going back and mdf'ing it. anyway, a couple things to note here: 1-don't use anything much thicker than 1/4 or your door panel won't go back on. also, i believe i had to counterbore the mouting holes down to 1/8 thickness. also, it sounds like you're set on using naks, so this probably doesn't apply, but IF you use something else, you can't go much deeper than the naks or else you'll either run into the window or the window guide, can't remember which. i just had a look at my old bose enclosures. it seems hard to believe that a 5.25 will fit on it or in it, even if modified, but of course, if someone says it's been done, then it's been done. i too would go 6.5. (well, i did)a note that's worth noting, seeing how i'm up against it at the moment, if you're fuel pump needs (or is close to needing) replacing, do it now before you get the stereo in. you don't want to pull the rear seat out twice, and you'll have to undo all the mounting and wiring for the amp (if you do like i did and back it against the trunk panel) to get at the fuel tank/pump. what else? oh yeah, definitely 6 x 9's in the rear. it's a direct drop in, don't think separate tweeters add any value here. your question about the amps: i think you could do 1 5 channel as someone has mentioned, or 1 4 channel + 1 mono channel amp. all depends on what you find, how much you want to spend, and how much sound you want. i'm still borrowing a friend's sub, which i think is a 12, but i plan to go down to a 10 when he wants it back and buy my own, i'm sure it'll be enough bass still, and the extra room is always handy in a small-enough-trunk-as-it-is. ah, and i guess one last thing i'll say is, it's scary how much car stereo costs add up and how quickly. if what you're after is pretty good sound, i think you could tone it down--skip the nak amp, and go with a 1 amp set-up. if you're really looking for that extra sq that i'm not that particular about--hell, the q is 12 years old this year and lets in more noise than it used to anyway--then sure, go all out, but it'll run to 1500-2000 pretty quickly i would think, and then you're at what? 15-20% the value of the entire car? well, value to others, not neccesarily q owners. also, i would be VERY interested to hear what your installer charges. i did mine myself and could not believe the hassle it was, but i really wanted to know what i would have been charged. the worst part i think, was running the wires to the front speakers. hardly any space in the kick panels to do it. taking the rear seat out isn't a ton of fun either, but at least it is straightforward. ah, that reminds me, those nak components have giant crossovers, plan on mounting them in the trunk--no matter how hard you look, you will not find ANY room in the behind the door panel to mount them. feel free to ask any other questions you have, and hopefully i'll find some time to get the tweeter pics up. when were you planning on starting all this anyway? randy

[gloucester Q]

az-not the greatest pic, and it makes them look a bit more obvious than they really are.

[AZ94Q]

Thanks for posting that pic, it brings up my next question

Do you think where you mounted them is better then mounting them in the pillars, like the 94+... I guess since you mounted them there, you probably think they are the best...

[gloucester Q]

well, i mounted them there because it was easier than finding new a-pillar trim off a 94+. even if i could find some, i didn't know what my mounting options would be behind the trim. i will say, i did this based on my first stereo in an old honda civic where i angled the tweeters towards me. i got great sound out of that car, am still tweaking this one and not there yet. you may be able to tell in the pic--the tweeter is pointing more toward the back of the car instead of up towards towards the roof, and i do believe i need to rotate these up a little. at the very least i like the flexibility of this set-up, where i guess that sticking them behind the a-pillar limits your positioning options. i have a pathfinder with tweeters in the a-pillar, and i can't say they do much for me. original starting-to-sound-crappy stereo in that one though...

[AZ94Q]

Glou,

Interesting. Instead of swapping the 94+ pillars, couldn't you just mount the tweeter in the existing pillar? It has it's own grill, so couldn't you just drill an opening, run the wiring, and be good to go? Or would that not work

[gloucester Q]

hmmm, i never even thought of doing that, the sail panels just looked too tempting. i guess you could do that--are your pillars flat? i.e. do they offer a good mouting base? mine seem curved and offhand i can't remember what the material is, but i think it might be on the soft side. the sail panels are a hard plastic, which was a nice base for the screws to bite into. i won't have my stereo up and running for at least a week (fuel pump replacement), but after it's running and i've tweaked the direction of the tweeters, maybe i could say definitely that this is what you should or should not try. at the very least, maybe you and a pal can hold them in position during/prior to install and try and figure out where your best imaging will come from. (i didn't do that, come to think of it)