My car has issues

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
Nitrus0nous
Posts: 391
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 4:58 pm
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I need some help. First off, my car started idleing pretty bad. It'd go from around 700, down to 400, back up, back down, back up, back down to 200 or 300..nearly stalling. I got a basic tuneup and it still does it. Any clues? and a few weeks ago, whenever my car got to 3000 rpms in anything other than first, it would sputter like a whore. It would go until a little before 4k. aas long as it wasnt between 3-4k rpm's, it runs fine. I wast thinkin feul pump, but im new to workin on cars...so can somebody help me out? thx

89 hatch113k autoinjen intake, 2.5 exhaust with 4" muffler from previous owner - desperately in need of replacement.


CanadianCoch
Posts: 186
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2003 7:26 am

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for the idle, check your spark plugs, wires, O2 sensor. 240's are known for bad idles, change your plugs, O2 sensor and check your plug wires reisustance, and replace your air filter. All of these are general maintenance, and if they haven't been done in a while they should be done.With regard to the upper RPM's, sound like fuel pump could be clogged, your Cat Converter could be clogged, or your injectors could be leaky, check all three.

As well for your idle, it could be your AIV backfiring, check yoru air filter, if it is black you need to remove your AIV

Start from there and we'll work on this.

Coch

Nitrus0nous
Posts: 391
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 4:58 pm
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A bad O2 sensor can have a significant affect on gas mileage. Here's a procedure for checking the O2 sensor. The procedure may be the same for your year.

Checking the O2 sensor

The following procedure applies to all 1991 and up 240-SX models:

1 - Turn on ignition switch (do not start engine).2 - Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECU fully clockwise.3 - Wait a few seconds.4 - Turn diagnostic mode selector fully counterclockwise.5 - You are now in MODE-II.6 - Start engine and let fully warm up (temperature up to normal).7 - Run engine at 2000 RPM or higher for about two minutes under no load8 - Check that the inspection lamp (red LED) on the ECU goes on and off more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2000 RPM.

I got this from 240sx.org faq. is this the same procedure for 89? if not, what is the correct way? i dont have my fsm yet :/

Nitrus0nous
Posts: 391
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 4:58 pm
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Before I left to wash my car today, I popped the hood to see if I could see any leakage around the injectors, but none. I noticed the rubber around the wires on the injector harness's were quite busted.

So I turned the car on, and fiddled with the wires a bit. I moved the one closest to the rear of the engine, and the car stalled. When trying to start the car, it didnt want to start, but it did for a second, and sputtered a little, shaking excessively. I moved the same wire just a little bit, and tried starting and everything was fine, but i moved it just a tad more, and it ran smoother than ever. But.... just the smallest movement and it would go back to its usual crappy idle.

I figure its best to replace all of them, but I'm definately not the expert. Does anyone know how much work I'm in for? Or more importantly, how much work is someone else in for, and how much labor am i gonna have to spend. This isnt one of the things im comfortable with trying to figure out on my own right now, with my very limited knowledge.

I was told before that i might need new motor mounts, which i now realize is true. I know this would involve pullin the motor and all, so i'm assuming this will be a hell of a lot of $$ as well.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Altiman94
Posts: 5891
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 12:13 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX

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i am having a new longblock installed in my 89. My motor mounts were beyond bad, so i had to order new ones before having the new engine re-installed. All is well now, the car should be finished monday.


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