My CA18DEt is sick

[skydrift]

Hi Everyone,my CA18DEt is sick, idling is 14,000 rpm and combustion is very rich and I can not find the reason for this problem;If anyone has had this problem and knows the solution, waiting your answers THX.

[Indecisive]

Hi Everyone,my CA18DEt is sick, idling is 14,000 rpm and combustion is very rich and I can not find the reason for this problem;If anyone has had this problem and knows the solution, waiting your answers THX.

wow, that must be quite the noisey spectacle at a red light

[boost_boy]

Hi Everyone,my CA18DEt is sick, idling is 14,000 rpm and combustion is very rich and I can not find the reason for this problem;If anyone has had this problem and knows the solution, waiting your answers THX.

Watch the water temperature sensor or a nasty intake manifold leak or something attached to the intake manifold. I'm sure you mean 1400rpm and not 14,000rpm .

Dee

[skydrift]

Yes 1400 rpm, cold and hot, it makes no noise, but sometimes it has failed.I have already checked the intake manifold and all vacum and there are no leaks.I'll watch the water temperature sensor, but I do not know where is it, can you tell me where it is located sensor?

14000rpm, the pistons have melted

[boost_boy]

Yes 1400 rpm, cold and hot, it makes no noise, but sometimes it has failed.I have already checked the intake manifold and all vacum and there are no leaks.I'll watch the water temperature sensor, but I do not know where is it, can you tell me where it is located sensor?

14000rpm, the pistons have melted

Your water temp. sensor is located on the butterfly valve manifold which is the portion that is attached to the head. It is located next to the #1 fuel injector which is located on the timing belt side of the engine. It's usually red in color. Check the connector or check the ecu for trouble codes.

Dee

[skydrift]

Your water temp. sensor is located on the butterfly valve manifold which is the portion that is attached to the head. It is located next to the #1 fuel injector which is located on the timing belt side of the engine. It's usually red in color. Check the connector or check the ecu for trouble codes.

Dee

Hi, boost_boy,I changed the water temp sensor and the result is a bit better, idling at 1100 rpm , but even when I start the engine hot, it runs to 2000 rpm and then descends to 1100 rpm.What do you think?

[DALAZ_68]

Hi, boost_boy,I changed the water temp sensor and the result is a bit better, idling at 1100 rpm , but even when I start the engine hot, it runs to 2000 rpm and then descends to 1100 rpm.What do you think?

LOL....reminds me of a rotary

[boost_boy]

Hi, boost_boy,I changed the water temp sensor and the result is a bit better, idling at 1100 rpm , but even when I start the engine hot, it runs to 2000 rpm and then descends to 1100 rpm.What do you think?

Either your throttle position sensor is out of range and need adjustment, or your idle adjustment screw needs adjusting, or again, there's some kind of vaccum leak at your intake manifold. Please check the codes on your ecu to verify that your system is free of faults.

Dee

[skydrift]

Either your throttle position sensor is out of range and need adjustment, or your idle adjustment screw needs adjusting, or again, there's some kind of vaccum leak at your intake manifold. Please check the codes on your ecu to verify that your system is free of faults.

Dee

OK, can you explain how to ecu codes?And in the meantime I will adjust my throttle position.

[skydrift]

LOL....reminds me of a rotary

No it is not rotary, it is only a little "sick" but when it will be healed, he toured as a real CA18DET .

[boost_boy]

OK, can you explain how to ecu codes?And in the meantime I will adjust my throttle position.

[short version] Expose ecu with connector connected, locate adjustment screw on ecu, turn key to ignition, but do start the car. Go back to the adjustment screw and turn it clockwise. Note: Do not turn the screw counter clockwise until the red and green lights have flashed (together) the amount of times which signals what section of the eccs you're diagnosing. For instance, the red and green lights flash three times together, immediately after the 3rd flash you will rotate the adjustment screw counter clockwise before the red and green lights start flashing four times. Once you've adjusted the screw counter clockwise, the ecu will flash the red and green lights individually at which time you will count how many flashes from the red and how many flashes from the green. Each sequence will give you a code. For example: 2 red flashes and 1 green flash= code 21 in which you can reference what that code means. If there is more than one stored code, on the next sequence, you may see 3 red flashes and 4 green flashes which is code 34 in which you also can reference the needed info fromthis forum or a chilton manual for a nissan pulsar 87-89. Search hard and learn about what you've invested in my friend. Don't make this harder than folks around heremake it or you too will be selling your engine as well.

Dee

[skydrift]

Watch the water temperature sensor or a nasty intake manifold leak or something attached to the intake manifold. I'm sure you mean 1400rpm and not 14,000rpm .

Dee

Thank you, boost_boy, I will do the test ecu and I'll know the result.

[skydrift]

[short version] Expose ecu with connector connected, locate adjustment screw on ecu, turn key to ignition, but do start the car. Go back to the adjustment screw and turn it clockwise. Note: Do not turn the screw counter clockwise until the red and green lights have flashed (together) the amount of times which signals what section of the eccs you're diagnosing. For instance, the red and green lights flash three times together, immediately after the 3rd flash you will rotate the adjustment screw counter clockwise before the red and green lights start flashing four times. Once you've adjusted the screw counter clockwise, the ecu will flash the red and green lights individually at which time you will count how many flashes from the red and how many flashes from the green. Each sequence will give you a code. For example: 2 red flashes and 1 green flash= code 21 in which you can reference what that code means. If there is more than one stored code, on the next sequence, you may see 3 red flashes and 4 green flashes which is code 34 in which you also can reference the needed info fromthis forum or a chilton manual for a nissan pulsar 87-89. Search hard and learn about what you've invested in my friend. Don't make this harder than folks around heremake it or you too will be selling your engine as well.

Dee

Thank you, boost_boy, I will do the test ecu and I'll know the result.

[skydrift]

Thank you, boost_boy, I will do the test ecu and I'll know the result.

After setting the throttle position, is slowed down to 900 rpm.

For codes ecu:Flash (Red and green together) 2 times, code01.Flashed (all Red and Green) 3 times, code55.And there are no codes for the rest.

But I can already say that the car runs a little better, I am amazed at your knowledge in the CA18DET. But there are small cuts when the engine is idling. And now, more than discover the meaning of codes and I think it will run perfectly, and I hope.

[articzap]

I had a bad idle problem when I did my swap. It turns out my throttle return spring wasn't putting enough pressure on the throttle body to fully close it. Its easy thing to double check.

[skydrift]

I had a bad idle problem when I did my swap. It turns out my throttle return spring wasn't putting enough pressure on the throttle body to fully close it. Its easy thing to double check.

It's good to know, I'll check it again,THX, man.

[skydrift]

My throttle spring is good, I tried a different throttle body and the problem is always the same.

If someone just give me the meaning of the codes I mentioned earlier, this would certainly solve my problem.

[articzap]

Code 55 means no codes at all.