Hello everybody.

I've started this project about 6 months ago and it's (very) slowly advancing in the right direction. I'm planning to get about 500 atw from this little motor.

Anyway, some pics..

Disassembling the engine:













After the engine was all bits and pieces, I've started reconditioning OEM parts that are going to be reused.





In the past weeks I’ve been refurbishing the alternator. Before I had a chance to disassemble it, it was making a loud squeak every time I’ve spun it.. Now, after I’ve cleaned it thoroughly, greased the bearings and painted the covers, it still makes a faint squeak; I might be forced to change the bearings and/or brushes and see if the problem persists...



Main bearings from the US, MAHLE Clevite-77s .



As for the block, I’ve removed the rust inside the jackets and walls using electrolysis, then coated and filled it with oil so it doesn’t rust again 'till I assemble the engine and fill it with antifreeze; I then painted the outside for the sake of looks. It’ll also need decking, boring and checking of journal clearances etc., but that later on down the road.



E1 to E6 and I1 to I6, meaning Exhaust cap 1-6 and Intake cap 1-6 respectively:



Cam covers got all the gunk (painfully) removed from the inside, then stripped of paint and repainted in OEM AG2 red.







Coil cover, with a cooler fan for all the hot air trapped under it; before you ask, yes, I've tested it, yes it works, no it doesn't catch fire or melt.



Crank caps:



And girdle:



Fuel rail, cleaned and refurb'd:



Intake manifold cleaned on the inside and painted; it'll need some machine work later on for the bigger TB and the runners ported/polished a bit:











OEM parts for the rebuild: 13023-42L00 and 13022-42L00, those being the crank pulley plates.



Stock oil pan got a derust treatment and a repaint:





Refurb'd oil squirters:



Misc stuff..



I didn't have much money for more serious parts 'cause I'm having my wedding tomorrow.. but after that I'm getting more into this project

www.200sxproject.com/blog

I'm looking forward to this one.

That fan in the coil pack cover is pretty nifty. I may have to give it a try.

krazy skwerel wrote:That fan in the coil pack cover is pretty nifty. I may have to give it a try.

That is pretty cool idea.

Looking really nice buddy!

What kind of head / block work is getting done? Assuming forged rebuild + big a** turbo

Rb20psi wrote:Looking really nice buddy!

What kind of head / block work is getting done? Assuming forged rebuild + big a** turbo

Hi buddy.

Almost anything stock goes, both from the block and head. I'm about to order a new stock OEM crank, forged Pauter rods and 83,5 mm CP pistons. Stuff like oil pump, seals, sprockets etc. will still be OEM, but new. As for the head, everything goes, I'm getting Supertech valves, springs and retainers + tomei procams and gears and new OEM lifters.

Got the main and rod bearings

blanc0 wrote:Got the main and rod bearings

Where do you buy it ?
I have search ebay, the Cevite packing box is look different from yours !

Got them from Ebay USA from Eric's Performance Parts. They are Clevites packed in Mahle boxes, it even says Clevite on them.

Why are you choosing pauter rods?
No doubt they are strong but normal Chinese h-beam would be sufficient and not as heavy.

tommey wrote:Why are you choosing pauter rods?
No doubt they are strong but normal Chinese h-beam would be sufficient and not as heavy.

Because I chose quality over price

On the topic of rods, it seems the stock rods are capable of holding 500whp with appropriate hardware. But at that power level I'd be questioning their longevity. Does anyone think it'd be beneficial to have to stock rods shot peened?

Quality is a valid argument, but why Pauter?
They are heavy, you should consider Carillo if you are concerned about quality and want reduced weight.

tommey wrote:Quality is a valid argument, but why Pauter?
They are heavy, you should consider Carillo if you are concerned about quality and want reduced weight.

1300 bucks is a bit too much for me, I have to get them from the US and pay customs some 400 bucks more.. I'll pay 1000 bucks at a maximum for rods.

Maybe if I get a deal for CP pistons and rods for 2600 bucks shipped and with customs paid etc., I'll get them, but that's my budget for now.. I've already paid 1400 bucks for a new OEM crank; yes, it's a lot, but it's a good price for Europe )

K1 rods

Should of got the full counter weighted billet steel crank with stock stroke.

K1 is still Chinese and if he doesn't want Chinese rods I assume that a Chinese Crankshaft is also out of the question.
I am also skeptical about those cranks, I have only good experience with Chinese rods.

Got the new OEM crank yesterday, along with some misc pieces , more specifically oil pan seals, an oil pick-up strainer o-ring and the Woodruff key for the crank.

Oh, and a bearing for the power-steering pump (notice the funny name).








http://www.200sxproject.com/blog/

Got my forged pistons today, CP Carrillo 83.5 mm oversize, 8.5:1 standard compression ratio. Pretty sexy.

the mini rb, luv these little ca18's, when built they pack a mean little punch and have a very distinct sound.

Got some more OEM stuff like dowels, pins etc., and some galvanized bolts and washers (as a kit) for the oil pan.

08120-61010 , 11046-73402, 08915-1361A, 11053-16A00 and 11024-K0100 (and the bolts & washers):



Also, sorted out the alternator, changed the bearings and it doesn't squeak at all now:



Plus, refurbished the PS pump:

Wow. You know how to disassemble and clean anything!

Well, what can I say, out of necessity and passion :P

The forged Pauter NIS-200-480-1330F 4340 rods fitted with ARP 2000 rod bolts finally arrived today. Pretty happy with them.

I've never dealt with forged rods before. Do you think you could post some side by side comparisons to the stock rods to show in what aspects and by how much these are stouter?

Yes, I'd love to see a comparison as well.

By popular demand..



Now that I look at it, the stock rod looks puny.

We'll see how puny the stock rods are, because I kept mine! It's nice to see someone go all out though.

IMO, the stockers don't look puny at all. It appears they have more meat around the wrist pin than the Pauters, but not as much support. The length of the rod is massive by comparison of material, but not as structurally sound by design. The Pauter definitely has more around the crank journal, though. What do the Pauters look like from the side? Do they just have a single webbing, or are there two parallel I can't see?

It's just a single one.

I don't have anything against any rods, don't get me wrong, but for my 500+ goal, I really can't risk anything, especially after how much financial effort this project is. The Pauters are a good and proven set of rods, their HP rating per rod is way more than my engine will ever make, so it's a good safety net.