POWERED BY MAX HMIC INSTALL/ TURBO REBUILD/ P/S/ ENGINE REBIRTH:
I ordered the s13 kit w/ s14 cold pipe since thats the closest to my CA18DET setup.all the plumbing is done/ simplified and the shortest lengths possible!
i went ahead and ordered a SR turbo outlet adapter which gave me the perfect height and angle for my hotpipe...STOKED! i also ordered a silicon 45 elbow for cold side which connects pipe to TB. I didnt even have to cut or weld any piping to fit CA.
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?11
- all sharp edges were sealed with door weatherstripping i had laying around...should be no vibrations
- yanked headlights off and of course surface rust under brackets. i wire wheeled it off/ primed & painted flat black so its nice and clean up front.
i had to trim a lot of metal on core support to fit this, but nothing structural
i got motors seperated from headlights and trimmed bracket to fit around I/C. I had to prime and paint with my epoxy spray. i also had the support brackets sandblasted, because they looked like crap with all the overspray.
i prepped oem bumper support to make look new. it was just a gray metal finish before. i went ahead and primed and sprayed it...now its rust proof and looks good for final assembly.
- the intercooler is permanently mounted & radiator installed which fit perfect...no issues. i will not be able to run my shroud, because cold pipe blocks top rad line.
a new addition is a S14 P/S reservoir to loop into my manual rack...just to keep an eye on fluid levels. it also looks newer and cleaner than a metal s13 unit.
dropped my turbo off in Richmond during the spring to get cleaned & rebuilt...luckily i dint need anything major done.
21yrs of carbon buildup on both the rear seal cover and impeller shaft. you can see how that might cause some friction when this is trying to spin and the carbon and oil turn to syrup when the turbo gets hot.
machined polished inside compressor venturie. ( Wasabi_ Pea ) also smoothed out the compressor inlet and outlet.
i didnt want to spend 650-700 on a new Garrett nor buy a ebay turbo. sticking with factory fresh oem for a DD
picked up a new Garrett actuator from Australia.
powdercoated parts from last spring...all done in Nismo silver
high temp powdercoat on heatshield
i dont know why nissan put philips head screws on backside to hold fpr. they wouldnt budge and i started to strip one. i pulled everything out and installed the nismo fpr with new bolts that you can use a wrench on.
DSM 450CC injectors chillin & new NISMO FPR
ive been thinking my rear exhaust side valve cover has been leaking, but i found the culprit. the hose goes back into block was dryrotted and clamp was no where near the right spot... it was so wet from oil up underneath im so glad i found it though... i felt i accomplished something.
I replaced every sensor on car last year as well as getting my ecu remapped by EMANCE. car never hesitated upon startup anymore and ran s*** tons better. i also had starter & alternator rebuilt.
22630-51E02- ECU TEMP SENSOR
25080-89903- gauge temp sensor
ENGINE MODS
i went ahead and threw away my last radiator, because i had redone fan setup more than twice and spray painted it black. i wanted a fresh platform so i ordered a new stocker.
wired up thermostatic switch, because it worked so great on last setup.
replaced all my injector and IACV plugs with new BOSCH EV1 style plugs. i soldered and heatshrinked everything along with a semi wire tuck job. all my old plugs were broke and barely making connection. now everything is snapped on with dielectric grease for corrosion...should be no signal loss at all.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel ... -p-48.html
i moved about 2ft of engine harness behind dash. the ignitor is now inside along with resistor pack now mounted on firewall. it was up near radiator on frame rail before. everything is tight and tucked together neatly now. i picked up the rubber grommet plugs from ebay seller. i couldnt find anyone in the states that sold the right diameter.
http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/weeone_k/
no more heat! since i dont drive it in the winter anyway.
i simplified 10 coolant lines down to 2 under block. 3/4 QUEST plumbing elbows are the perfect size.
i have the 1 main line coming off near water neck which connects to back of block teed going to turbo line via 1/2 x 3/4 x 3/4 brass quest tee
used steel spacers to push AAV into stock location since i got rid of factory plumbing.
KA24E MODIFIED TB
cut off coolant ports & vac nipple underneath
JB WELDED some plastic upholstery plugs into ports
sprayed TB with VHT EPOXY paint
sprayed aluminum pulley w/ SS spray
cleaned throttle plate and inside TB
NEW gasket & TPS switch along with chrome allen head bolts for dress-up
i got this a/c foam from my hardware store to fill in gap between core support & rad.
i was having a few issues with my top coolant line being kinked, because cold pipe was right on top of it. i cut out a few sections and messed around with the bends and figured out a perfect solution. i finally got my Greddy temp adapt installed so i can keep a second gauge in car just in case factory might fail.
power is finally hooked back up into car. battery is tight, but perfect damn fit. Mobile Spec distribution block for all my hot leads. i went ahead and heat shrinked wires too look oem. i threw the pink ties in there too match lettering on fuse cover. i swear this is the cleanest setup i have ever did and the last time
SARD MAGIC BOX...help with any voltage issues. i also installed a few more grounds on exhaust side of block & transmission.
You are viewing a brand new Magic Box from Sard.
Improve idle, response, low-mid torque and drivability can be achieved with the Magic Box. In addition, static in the audio system will be reduced, power to the lights increased and a cleaner burning, more fuel-efficient engine can be realized.
Simply attach the Sard Magic Box to the car battery and stabilize the voltage going to your car's electrical system, regain lost horsepower, performance, and get better fuel economy!
