My bum feels like a million bucks!
My bum feels like a million bucks!
What do you guys think? It took some custom fab of some adapters for the rails but all in all not too hard. I only got to the passenger side today so at least my GF will be riding in style for sundays D1.
what does a million bucks feel like, im geussing like a stack of papers, or a single piece of paper. im either stupid or brain damaged but did anyone realize the same thing we wipe or *** with is what our money is made out of? thats some kind of big word that i have at this moment forgot, ironic i think?
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MainEvent212
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 1:21 pm
- Car: 95 Nissan 240SX SE w/ SR20DET+goodies
Write up... Hmmm. Well, I suck at these so bear with me. Note I have only done the passenger seat thus far but I anticipate the driver seat to be similar but a little bit more PITA due to the power controls.
First you have to make sure you get the Z32 seats with their rails intact because you will not be using your stock ones any more. Rip out your stock seats and measure the distance between the two front bolt holes and the distance from front to back. Both should be around 17". The Z32 seats have the same style rails but are closer together and shorter, 14”. This means you have to make brackets to let the rails sit 3” wider apart and create a new mounting point for the rear.
At this point run to home depot and get some flat metal railing(?) and some decent sized nuts, washers, and bolts. They should be strong enough support the seats moving back and forth and not rip out if you get into an accident. I think I used steel railing. One long piece about 2” wide should do, you’ll be able to cut it into “bit size” pieces for the brackets. You will need 3 for each seat. Might want to paint them at this point to match the rails. You will never see them in a million years but just in case you are a perfectionist . The inboard rear is held on by a stud on the stock 240 seats so there is no 4th hole. But I’ll get to this later.
Remove the rails from the new seats and set the bolts aside. The brackets you just made will now bolt directly onto the seats using the holes already there and the bolts you just removed. Face the brackets outboard so that you can make a mark on the end of each that measure 17” apart. Mark and drill The rails will in turn bolt to the brackets at these locations. The rear is different. Starting with the outside rear, bolt the rail to the SEAT. Bolt the bracket to the rails mounting hole facing rearwards at an angle and line up the bracket with the hole in the car. Mark and drill. This is the only place where the rail’s original mounting hole is not holding the seat to the car the car. As mentioned earlier the last mounting point is a stud so we decided to bypass it and drill through the floor where ever the rail’s mounting point lined up. Use bolts, washers nuts here. Finally, set the seat in place and use the stock bolts that held your seat in. for the three mounting points. If you feel a tad bit lopsided washers can be used as shims where the brackets attach to the seats to prop up whatever side is low. Hope it’s not too confusing.
First you have to make sure you get the Z32 seats with their rails intact because you will not be using your stock ones any more. Rip out your stock seats and measure the distance between the two front bolt holes and the distance from front to back. Both should be around 17". The Z32 seats have the same style rails but are closer together and shorter, 14”. This means you have to make brackets to let the rails sit 3” wider apart and create a new mounting point for the rear.
At this point run to home depot and get some flat metal railing(?) and some decent sized nuts, washers, and bolts. They should be strong enough support the seats moving back and forth and not rip out if you get into an accident. I think I used steel railing. One long piece about 2” wide should do, you’ll be able to cut it into “bit size” pieces for the brackets. You will need 3 for each seat. Might want to paint them at this point to match the rails. You will never see them in a million years but just in case you are a perfectionist . The inboard rear is held on by a stud on the stock 240 seats so there is no 4th hole. But I’ll get to this later.
Remove the rails from the new seats and set the bolts aside. The brackets you just made will now bolt directly onto the seats using the holes already there and the bolts you just removed. Face the brackets outboard so that you can make a mark on the end of each that measure 17” apart. Mark and drill The rails will in turn bolt to the brackets at these locations. The rear is different. Starting with the outside rear, bolt the rail to the SEAT. Bolt the bracket to the rails mounting hole facing rearwards at an angle and line up the bracket with the hole in the car. Mark and drill. This is the only place where the rail’s original mounting hole is not holding the seat to the car the car. As mentioned earlier the last mounting point is a stud so we decided to bypass it and drill through the floor where ever the rail’s mounting point lined up. Use bolts, washers nuts here. Finally, set the seat in place and use the stock bolts that held your seat in. for the three mounting points. If you feel a tad bit lopsided washers can be used as shims where the brackets attach to the seats to prop up whatever side is low. Hope it’s not too confusing.
It's a waste of space. At least rudee's is a picture of his very nice car (even though the pic is too big). Your sig is just out of hand...it looks like your making long posts, when in fact its some stupid story. rudee's is too big also, but at least its of his vehicle.
I haven't read your sig, yet it is still annoying.
I haven't read your sig, yet it is still annoying.
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mattyfatty182
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat May 10, 2003 5:06 am
- Contact:
That red X sure looks comfortable. send me the picture and I will host it without a limit.[email protected]
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MainEvent212
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 1:21 pm
- Car: 95 Nissan 240SX SE w/ SR20DET+goodies
