my block, head ect... is back

[slik_s13]

i got my block, head, crank, piston and rods back from the machinie shop.what they did: bored and honed to 86.5 checked block for strightness(ok). a basic 3 angle valve job was done to head, also replaced valve all seals and replaced the exhuast valve guides as well as decked the head.magnafluxed rods, check for out of round and taper, and also checked for striaghtness in the rods, all checked out ok.i got my crank polished and balanced( i am using MAHLE power pack pistons 86.5 8.5:1 comp. ratio). im am currently waiting to get all my bearings which should be here tomorrow, all oem nissan.then all i need is a tune and a Z32 maf.i'll take better pics tomorrow and please excuse the mess in my build room.


Modified by slik_s13 at 12:32 PM 2/12/2008

[Hijacker]

Hooray for MAHLE! Make sure you check your ring gap before you install them. Mine were gapped too tight (like .015") and needed to be gapped to about .018" for the top ring and about .021" for the second ring.

[slik_s13]

ohh yeah i liked the price and design of them. i havent got to measureing the end gap yet but thats coming up here shortly. i did notice that the spec sheet that came with pistons had .015 recomended for the oil ring. did you go with that on your oil ring? i guess standard for the oil ring is like 0.20 - 0.60

[duffman1278]

Nice motor there. Do you plan on painting the block with high temp grey paint to make it look kinda new?

[kapetaJR]

how much did it cost you to have everything done?

[Hijacker]

The oil rings don't really matter. The tightest gap was .015" IIRC (my spec sheet is with my block at the shop right now). I measured my oil rings and they were at .018", which was well within spec.

[slik_s13]

Nice motor there. Do you plan on painting the block with high temp grey paint to make it look kinda new?

no im gonna leave it like the way it is. i think it looks pretty new already compared to what it used to look like, so im happy.

[Kalypso]

well done

[idahotuner]

what turbo is that. a gt25 or what. i see you had to use the CS adapters for the turbo outlets and inlets

[Slideways^Jordan]

really nice build you got going make sure to take lots of pics.

[slik_s13]

its a gt2871rs.

heres a litlle update...side viewside viewpistonsthe back, any time your doing a project like this make sure to clean inside the blocks main oil passage's. theres three access points to them through back and one in the front. heres where i stand as of now. the crank spins nice and smoothly. used standard 4,4,5,5, and 3 grade bearings for this block. the rods are all the same standard grade 1.
Modified by slik_s13 at 9:43 AM 1/28/2008

[idahotuner]

its a gt2871rs.

nice. that bigger or smaller then the gt2871r .64

your block looks so nice and clean what was the reason for the tear down like this and a redbuild. ?my block was super clean when i pulled the head off. so replacing everything like you did seems like a pain.

[slik_s13]

its a gt2871rs .64 w/HKS actuator. its the bolt style gt2871r, no slip fit housing.the reason i rebuilt it is becuase my engine seized.

[duffman1278]

Looking good man, keep us updated with tons of pics

[Rusker]

Wow that is ****ing nice. I wish my engines were that clean. Hopefully when I get to rebuilding one I'll get around to having all that done as well.

Take LOTS of pics of the rebuild.

[idahotuner]

awe yes i didn't recognize the actuator. so what is the reason for going with a HKS on and not stock.

lol that is a good reason to rebuild.

[Slideways^Jordan]

nice pics man keep up the good work.

[Hijacker]

awe yes i didn't recognize the actuator. so what is the reason for going with a HKS on and not stock.

Because the HKS actuator is adjustable. You can preset the load on the arm to obtain peak boost with it. It's the best manual solution out there IMO. I'm running one and it holds 13 psi without falter. Has been for 4 years

[idahotuner]

awe i see. does any one happen to know what the actuator that comes on the turbo is set for.? so with the hks you can set it to open up at at eve na lower boost setting. that would be cool

[Hijacker]

I've never taken it below a stock boost setting. I don't know if the spring has a minimum setting of 7psi on it or not, but normally when you increase the boost pressure with it, you're preloading the arm (by making it shorter) which requires more vacuum to force the arm to open.

[slik_s13]

yeah what Hijacker said, took the words right out my mouth.

so heres more of an update as of yesterday 1-29-08. i took the day off and stayed home from work to recover from a rob zombie concert.pistons are in. they were kinda pain to put in just because im so anal about moving the ring end gaps from there proper postions and **** up. moving on you can see the timing chain is starting to be installed. no.1 piston must be a TDC... use a fsm if you need guidance... this really isnt a write up or a how to. there is one in the sr faq..... thats all you need.installed head and head gasket. i used a APEX metal HG 1.1mm.what it looks like with out rocker arms.(big deal!!)and with RA'sthen got aroungd to going the cams.. these are stockers... and also the cam sprockets, they were kinda hard also when installing them, but not too bad. nothing i couldnt tackle. oh yeah and i installed the CAS.

tonight im going to put together the rest of the engine... intake manifold, coolant lines, turbo and exhuast manifold.is there anything inparticular you guys need a close up or whatever let me know so i can snap a pic of for you.

[Jyon9689]

Nice attention to detail/photos

[slik_s13]

thanks for the compliments guys. heres an update:

putting on the coolant lines that go to your heater hoses and turbo coolant line and other misc stuff. also i installed the thermostat housing with a new thermostat and new gaskets.

intake manifold on.







got the gt2871 on and also the lines to go with it. i put the flywheel and clutch on i just dont have any pics right now. i just need to clean up the transmission a bit and slap the ***** in! then i will be installing some new kts coilovers.

can anyone confirm that the turbo lines are correctly installed this is my first time dealing with turbo lines like these. it dont take a genius to install but i just want to make sure i put them in right.
Modified by slik_s13 at 10:59 AM 2/4/2008

[duffman1278]

Yes, that's correct.

Coming out REAL clean so far man!

[slik_s13]

i like the way its coming out. i'll post up some pics of the engine bay soon. its freshly painted flat black. the car is white right now. im going to paint it with the same color but possibly add a pearl white to it or just paint it the factory white 350z color.

[Rusker]

Man, it's looking good. Thanks for taking lots of pics.

[slik_s13]

heres an update of how it looks in the engine bay.

i painted the engine bay flat black. believe it or not i installed the engine myself with no help. did pretty good i scrathed the firewall a little but thats it. you just gotta take it slowly step by step and dont rush your self and give your self enough time to get the job done.i just need to clean up the wiring get a Z32 maf and a enthalpy tune, i also rebuilt my clutch master cylinder and rebuilt my brake master cylinder so those both will have to go in shortly. i did put new fuel lines from front to back and completely cleaned out my gas tank (it was ugly as hell).

[slik_s13]

looking back at it..... i love the way the turbo looks so sleeper.

[duffman1278]

Dude, you're engine is coming along so nice. You just need to repaint that valve cover or something, but it looks real clean! Are you gonna do a wire tuck?

[slik_s13]

thanks! i want to paint it but there is some deep gouges on the valve cover. and i f i paint it i really dont know what its gonna look like with those gouges. any suggestions... as for the wiring i am going to tuck them nicely under the intake runners and the rest of the harness will be hidden as best as possible.