My battery and Bose stereo don't get along

[01PathDaisy]

Hello. I've spent some hours looking through this forum, the Information & FAQ posted by Towncivilian and other web sites. I'm hoping the nice folks here will be able to shed some light on my situation.

Thanks to the FAQ... I know I have a 2001 (not 2001.5) Nissan Pathfinder LE with less than 50k miles.
It has the Bose 6 CD changer.

I love my Pathfinder. However, I've been trying to figure out why over the last couple of years my battery keeps getting drained when I don't drive my vehicle for a few days. I have more than one vehicle to drive so it doesn't get used very week. I've replaced the battery twice because of this and the last time was less than a year ago. I'm having NO other electrical issues with the car other than the stereo acting wonky on occasion. I've had it forget the presets, spit the CDs out even when I was only using the radio.

In doing some research online, I've seen where some people are posting about the Bose system having "issues" and could be causing battery drain. So, in my attempt to isolate the culprit, I took out the fuse #15 (which looked perfectly fine) and intentionally didn't drive it for a week. 7 days later, it started up with no problems. I've only been able to leave it sit for about 3 days before.

In doing some digging online and here, I've found these (links below). I have no idea if they pertain to my issue or not but I thought I'd show you what I have been reading.

Link to a thread on Here - Radio Issues
(hoping someone can tell me if the comments/link by qx4radioissue could be applicable)

All Experts Question Link

G35 Battery Drain Link

My goal:
I'm not as concerned about having a CD player as much as a radio.
Is there a way I can make the radio portion of my existing Bose system work so I don't have to get an aftermarket system?
Can I replace the circuit board (mentioned in the link above), keep my system and just remember to never turn the engine off without first turning off the radio?
Would this truly prevent the battery drain?
Is it possible it's the amplifier and not the Bose system? If so, what would isolate it as the problem, where exactly IS it in the vehicle and can I replace just this component? Would it have to be a Bose duplicate?

I hope one of the above is possible because I'm reading where making an aftermarket system work is a whole different can of worms to open.

Many thanks in advance to those who read and provide replies.

[Mark Sheriff]

I think it would not be worth the time and money to invest in fixing the stock radio, an aftermarket radio will supply you with much better features and quality.

It really isn't too hard to install also, if you need help on that just let me know but you could get a brand new pioneer radio, dash kit and wire harness for $70 on this site:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_605 ... 150MP.html

[01PathDaisy]

Thanks Mark, I appreciate the input. Before I tackle trying to figure out install a replacement I'll give it a bit more time for some replies. I may get back to you :-)

[saskapath]

Replacing the head unit isn't that big a deal. The only thing you need to be aware of is that you need a head unit which has LINE-OUT connections which you can use to drive the existing amplifiers, and you will need one of these interface boxes to install between the head unit and the existing amplifier/speakers.

http://www.amazon.ca/PAC-Roemnis2-Inter ... =ROEM-NIS2

The BOSE amps need a higher drive voltage than most new head units provide. I tried without the interface box and found that I could turn the volume on the head unit to maximum and it wasn't loud enough to hear over the road noise on the highway. The interface box took care of that problem.

The other option as some have noted on this site is to install new wiring to the speakers from the head unit, bypassing the existing amplifiers. For my needs this was just too much effort.

Finally, I have the old Bose head unit from my 02 which was working when I pulled it out. It's yours is you want to pay for shipping from Canada.

[01PathDaisy]

Thanks saskapath for the info and generous offer. I'm seriously considering it, so don't let anyone have it just yet if you can give me a bit of time to decide. I'll make a decision very soon on what I'll try and do.

I'm still a bit confused since I've never changed out a car stereo before and calling me a novice would be way too generous. Is there just one amplifier or are there multiple? My radio part was working fine before I took the fuse out, it was just the CD player I no longer trusted. Since I don't play CDs anymore these days it was no big deal until the power drain became such an issue.

I'm still puzzled as to what could be the remedy for that, worried that if I just replace the head unit with another Bose like the original, the problem will show back up again later. I remember something about a circuit board and diode? Anyone make sense of that in those links above?

[saskapath]

The Bose setup is a bit odd compared to most. It has multiple power amps that drive the speakers. As far as I know there is an amplifier in each of the front doors and one in the rear of the vehicle which drives the rear speakers.

The simple and quickest fix would be to replace your Bose head unit that works. However you are correct, there is no guarantee that a replacement from the same era won't develop the same issue.

You might also be able to find a shop to repair your original Bose, the discussion about the protection diode failing does make sense. However trying to fix it yourself could be a tough job. You would need a full schematic of the unit, the appropriate soldering equipment and a source for the replacement parts etc.

Installing a new head unit is pretty straight forward but there may be a need to splice the wires coming from the mating connector which should come with the new unit to the input connector on the PAC adapter. You would need to solder the wires together and cover the joint with a bit of heat shrink tubing.

[01PathDaisy]

Thanks again saskapath,
If I decide to go with a different head unit, I can guarantee you I won't be the one doing anything... I'll have to find someone I can trust to do it for me. I'll definitely print out this thread beforehand as I make my inquiries. You've been so helpful, I appreciate that.

If I may ask another question...

I removed fuse #15 and the battery drain seems to have stopped. Does this control the whole head unit (or) just the amplifier(s).
Is there another fuse besides #15 involved I should also test?

And, I downloaded the service manual from the links here - it shows wiring diagrams and such but doesn't show drawings of where the amplifiers actually are in the vehicle.

[saskapath]

On page EL-187 of the FSM you will see that there are two fuses associated with the audio system. A 15 amp fuse (labelled #4) provides 12V to the system at all times. This is likely the one on the circuit which is draining your battery. A second fuse, 10 amp (labelled #10) provides switched 12V only when the ignition switch is on. You probably don't need to worry about pulling this one.

As far as I know the front amplifiers are co-located with the speakers in the front doors and the rear amp is tucked away behind a panel in the back of the vehicle on the drivers side. I've never actually seen them so I could be off on the locations.

[01PathDaisy]

Just realized I've been describing the fuse I took out as #15 and it should have read #4 all along.
(V8 slap to the forehead)
I can't go back and edit my previous posts... but wanted to clarify for anyone else who might read this.

[Hawairish]

I agree with the suggestions about upgrading to a aftermarket radio. It's a trivial process that's still affordable even if you don't DIY, especially for a Pathfinder with the Bose system (I've already changed out my Bose headunit and kept everything else).

That aside, if you are uncomfortable installing a radio, then what's your comfort level troubleshooting this? How are you with electronics in general?

I ask because I would've never pulled a fuse, let alone waited a week, to troubleshoot this. That doesn't make sense to me, unfortunately. If I suspected the radio, I would've had a voltmeter probing terminal 12 on the back of the radio in a few minutes, checking voltages with the truck on and off.

Why? Because the 2001 FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2001/el.pdf) describes everything I need to know about the Bose system on EL-179 (with basic supporting schematic on EL-182). It tells me terminal 12 is the power lead for the rear amp and an amp relay when the radio is on. In one shot, I can tell if it's a radio or amp problem. If there's voltage there when the truck is off, then replace the radio. If not, focus on the rear amp and the amp relay.

Interrupt the ground on terminal 24 of the rear amp and check for voltage there to see if the amp is staying on when the truck is off. The amp always has power supplied on terminal 11, but the amp should only be on when a power signal exists on terminal 9. If that's not the case, replace the amp.

Rather than pull the door panels to check either front speaker amps, you can probe the amp relay, which is located near the rear amp according to EL-384 (connector B47 in the diagram). If you have voltage continuing through the relay (i.e., not the battery side; like the amp, this also has an always-on power signal when the truck is off). But really, the easier way to test this is to have someone turn the radio on and off while you listen/feel the relay clicking (should hear/feel it for both radio on and radio off).

If those 3 things check out ok, then I don't think it's your Bose system causing your problem.

[Hawairish]

And to answer your original questions...

Is there a way I can make the radio portion of my existing Bose system work so I don't have to get an aftermarket system?

Possibly. I'm not familiar with the separate pieces (radio + CD changer...mine had the integrated 6-disc changer), but if you suspect the CD player is the problem, you can just disconnect it from the radio. It's not even worth writing up test instructions for the changer.

Can I replace the circuit board (mentioned in the link above), keep my system and just remember to never turn the engine off without first turning off the radio?

That sequence of events from that post is silly. It's a bandage for just replacing the radio, which was clearly dealing with some sort of short. Replacing the circuit board isn't even remotely worth your time.

Would this truly prevent the battery drain?

Well, no. The battery can sit disconnected from the entire truck and still drain. It's the nature of electricity. But, assuming everything stays connected, there is always a power draw somewhere (ECU, alarm, radio, etc.). But, it's the parasitic draw from other things (lights left on, radios in full power mode, amps left on) that accelerate battery drain because they typically have a higher power draw.

Is it possible it's the amplifier and not the Bose system? If so, what would isolate it as the problem, where exactly IS it in the vehicle and can I replace just this component? Would it have to be a Bose duplicate?

Yes, very possible; see my previous post for troubleshooting. It is located on the driver's side in the cargo area under the rear window, just behind the wheel well. You'll need to remove the lower interior trim panel that runs between the rear lift gate and the driver's side rear door. The amp is right behind the built-in vent in the panel. Your best bet is to just replace it with another Bose amplifier from a Pathfinder if it comes down to that.

[01PathDaisy]

Thanks Hawairish for the detailed replies.

I just printed this entire thread and hope to take it to someone who knows more about such matters than I do (perhaps my brother) and hopefully between him and this thread I'll be able to figure out to troubleshoot this further.

I've never taken a stereo component out of a dash before and even though I have a detailed help (with photos) and even a video of how to off of YouTube, it intimidates me to no end.

I appreciate all of ya'll being willing to steer me in the right direction.

[Hawairish]

No problem, hope you find a solution. Post up if you've got any other questions.

[01PathDaisy]

An update with what I decided to do.

Installation of a new head unit was yesterday. It's working great (even steering wheel controls) and the only thing that will be left to see is if after leaving it sit for a few days my battery keeps it's charge. I'll report back after I've been able to do that final test.

I decided on a JVC replacement head unit keeping all the other factory equipment. I've put links to before/after images and what unit I picked. This can be found easily via both online retailers and any good local vendor.

I chose the lesser (710 vs 910) because I didn't need/want Bluetooth connectivity. Radio/CD/Aux and USB all work perfectly. It even has a little remote if that kind of thing is important to you.

THANK-YOU again to everyone who chimed in offering suggestions, even an offer of an old original head unit by saskapath... what a great community.

I'll report back soon to confirm this is actually what was causing my battery drain.


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[01PathDaisy]

Well, I can finally report with confidence that the stereo WAS the issue of my battery drain.

Since the installation of the new stereo I've had no problems with the battery.

I wasn't able to go 4 days before without driving it but I just finished a 16 day parked test and it started right up without hesitation.

Thanks again for everyone's help and input.