my 95 infiniti wont start without pulling the fuel pump fuse in the morning

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mcfrog420
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Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:00 pm
Car: 1995 infiniti j30 t

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i have a 1995 infiniti j30 and it will turn over but wont start when its cold. i have to pull the fuel pump fuse to get it to start. then when i put the fuse back in it sputters and wants to die until it gets warm. when i get it on the road it takes a min to get up to speed but when i go uphill i have the pedal to the floor and im only going 5 mph. i replaced the spark plugs and the computer thinking that would help but it did not. it is not throwing a check engine light either. it runs but has no power when in gear.


qship96
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Let the engineers at toyota spend a few days with it, they will get the ole girl to accelerate!!!!

mcfrog420
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Car: 1995 infiniti j30 t

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i had it in a local shop but they couldnt check the whole computer w/o a nissan computer.

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Infinitiguy19
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1994 Infiniti Q45a 240000 Miles

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qship96 wrote:Let the engineers at toyota spend a few days with it, they will get the ole girl to accelerate!!!!


Toyota should go out of business for that. Hell if it was any of the big domestic 3 it would happen.
mcfrog420 wrote:i had it in a local shop but they couldnt check the whole computer w/o a nissan computer.
Stay away from that shop and replace which ever injector(s) are bad. To avoid pulling the fuse just press the accelerator all the way down in the morning till the car starts. Because the car is flooded every morning.

driverdriver
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Your car is an OBDII, All you need to do is install a generic scanner to the consult port and pull the codes.

Their is a "sticky" at the top of this forum that will tell you what the code means. Report back with it.

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yodawill2000
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QShip.With all due respect dude we dont treat people like that in this forum.Back to the Q forum please

Not sure how it can be flooded if it sits overnight.Fuel will get past the rings into the oil pan.


driverdriver
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mcfrog420

Did you replace the sparkplugs with OEM NGK's or another brand?

Non OEM plugs are well known for causing problems in J's.

mcfrog420
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no but i used double platinum boche spark plugs.i talked to a mechanic that said these wouldnt make a difference.

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yodawill2000
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That mechanic doesnt know squat about the VG30DE engine.

NGK's are a must !!sparkplugs.com or IOS are the best sources.

Could be a dirty MAF sensor , Fuel filter that needs replaced , fuel pump going out the list is long !!!

Does it ever have power in gear ??Like when fully warmed up ?


driverdriver
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Run only NGK's!!!

I would also recommend finding a mechanic who knows the VG30DE inside and out. Its a special engine.

I'm sure California has many 300zx clubs. I would consult them for the mechanic/specialist nearest you.

mcfrog420
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Car: 1995 infiniti j30 t

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im just tired of spending all this money for something that is not a for sure thing. the NGKs are $13.00 a piece. i have invested $500 into things that were said to be the problem and it didnt pan out. i bought some fuel system cleaner and it will start even if it is cold. now i need to fix the bogging when in drive. it could be the plugs but i dont want to waste anymore money. if i could get a for sure answer from somebody then i would put the NGK plugs in.

mcfrog420
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Car: 1995 infiniti j30 t

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i have tested the fuel system. the pump is good and the filter is not clogged. i took of the hose connected from the filter to the intake and turned it over and fuel poured out. i used MAF cleaning fluid also. it has some power on flat ground, it feels like it flutters until you get past 2000 rpms then it drives fine. but uphill is another story.

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yodawill2000
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Have you tested the Alternator output ??They can do some weird stuff like that if getting weak.

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AZhitman
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Whoa, wait a damn minute.

If it's an overly-rich condition when cold, ow come no one mentioned the IACV or cleaning the orifice in the throttle body?

Could it be as simple as a lack of airflow?

Both easy to test and fix. In fact, I'd like to see a picture of the inside of the throttle body.

mcfrog420
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Car: 1995 infiniti j30 t

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how do i test the alternator output? where is the IACV located. do i just clean it out or get a new one. also what would i use to clean the throttle body. i took off the air intake and looked around the throttle body. it has a little burnt oil or some kind of residue. it also has stress cracks from overheating i think. ill get a pic of it in the morning. i just dont know how to post them.

Modified by mcfrog420 at 5:26 PM 3/4/2010
Modified by mcfrog420 at 5:48 PM 3/4/2010

mcfrog420
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Car: 1995 infiniti j30 t

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i just bought the car a week ago and it had a big water leak and it over heated driving it home, but it had great power and ran great. i pulled it straight into the garage and took the radiator, fan, fan shroud to get to this hose leading to the water pump. i replaced the hose and put it back together. at the same time i changed the oil and spark plugs. and when i went to start it up and all this happened. i know it has to be something small because it ran great before i took it apart.

driverdriver
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How much did the car overheat?

If the temp gauge and CEL where flashing, you should pulled over and had the car towed.

You can cause some very serious damage by overheating this engine.

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1994 infiniti j30 190+
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driverdriver wrote:You can cause some very serious damage by overheating this engine.
lol i had mine overheated so bad it stalled from it getting so hot but then again it had coolant in it and it was just the water pump broke so i guess i was just lucky then.

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AZhitman
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mcfrog420
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Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:00 pm
Car: 1995 infiniti j30 t

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that is the thing, it didnt flash anything. it died twice. i pulled over every 10 miles and put more water into it. i drove it into the garage and turned it off and started working on it that same night. it showed no signs of damage when we pulled it in, it had full power. but i changed the plugs after fixing the leak so i dont know if that has anything to do with the bogging. the mechanic i took it to said it was throwing codes one min and not the next. he said the MAF sensor and the KNOCK sensor were going back and forth. im wodering if the spark plugs have something to do with the KNOCK sensor. the mech. said that the KNOCK sensor will retard the timing which could cause the bogging. i dont know if i trust the shop. it is a little hole in the wall. the tac only works when it is warmed up and the radio display goes in and out. i have no idea what this means. i replaced the computer thinking it was bad but it was not. YODA said that the allternator can mess up things like that. i think i bought a lemon that is out of my league to fix.


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