my 95 240sx is sick

[joker-9]

I have a 95 240sx and have had some weird things going wrong with it, when I drive for awile it starts acting like it gets no gas and will start studdering of and on while Im driving. If I drive long enough it will just shut off, it gets worse when its hot outside, I replaced my fuel filter and pump but thats about it. It drives almost perfect when its not acting up, my check engine light does come on but, goes off during the night....weird. Any help would be much appreciated.

[teddy]

not overheating are we?

[ddgsxr504]

Sounds to me like your Mass Airflow Sensor. Dump the codes on your ECU and that will determine what is throwing you CEL.

[S14KoukiMonster]

It definately sounds like you have some "diagnostic trouble codes" or DTCs. Your ECM's on board diagnostic system is indicating a malfunction warning ( in diagnostic test mode 1). When your MIL/check engine light comes on, it's telling you that a malfunction has been detected twice in 2 consecutive driving cycles(aka-2 trip detection logic). Although a "misfire", fail-safe mode and "closed loop control" will come on in the 1st trip. You might be able to diagnose it yourself, but where I work we only charge .6 of an hour to give you just the diagnosis. You would have to switch your ECM into "diagnostic test mode 2" and reading the mil flashes. So my best advice, get it diagnosed by a Pro, then decide if it's a nice easy fix you can do (MAF sensor), or a beatch that you can't handle alone. Unless you know a friend that has a Snap-On vantage or ect.

PS- Getting the Nissan dealer to diagnose it with their consult program would've been cheaper than replacing your fuel pump(filter wasn't a bad idea though). Posts like "I think its your this or that" might help you in certain cases but with DTCs they're just guessing.

[S14KoukiMonster]

PPS- Try posing this in the "online mechanic" section aswell. They are Nissan trained (I work for Honda) and ASE certified,(US ASE certification if kind of a joke here in Canada because it's much harder to pass our certification tests) so they should be able to give you better help with a Q like this than most of the members.

[TanManS14]

Ive been waiting for someone to have this problem, my car does the same thing, it runs perfect in the morning when its cold, but when it heats up it stalls at idle sometimes, but others idle's perfect. It also hesitates up to redline. But other times it dosnt. Ive also replaced plugs wires, fuel filter, and got a new EGR system. But still no luck, I have no leaks in my downpipe ect. Just replaced the gaskets. PS. does yours sputter when its held at really constant rpm sometimes. And if you fix it let me know. TanMan

[S14KoukiMonster]

TanManS14- engine sputtering/stalling AND rear end clunking- DAMN that sucks. I left you a post regarding the rear end clunking noise.

[joker-9]

yeah its making a weird clunking noise I forgot about that. thanks for your help and I have taken my car to get checked by a pro but they say change my engine....typical. since its a 95 it has a odb1 ecu....most of the pros have a setup for obd2 ecu's, I live in a small town....

[TanManS14]

TanManS14- engine sputtering/stalling AND rear end clunking- DAMN that sucks. I left you a post regarding the rear end clunking noise.

Exactly what im thinking, Im gonna go sr this summer cause Im just having to many problems with it now, my transmission also grinds 3rd on the down shift and 4th on the up shift. The guy who had the car before me was a complete jackass, he swapped in a differenct stock ka and for example of his ghettoness, he couldnt find a EGR valve that would fit so we bought one took off the old one that he sliced off, and when we started it up a penny flew out of the exaust manifold side. Thats what he used to plug it. Also Ive been having minor trouble with my brakes its not master cylinder(just replaced) What its doing is sometimes they'll work perfect and others they will grab slightly on the rotors the hole time with a stiff pedle feel. My friend told me this is what happened right before his brakes went out any imput? Sorry I should have posted in the other mechanincs sections or whatever. Thanks.

[hondaracr250440]

my friends quad did the same exact thing but his engine was blown... and when itd heat up itd loose compression and then stop running... i dont know if its the same for cars but just a suggestions.. also can anyone explain to me about what SR and s13 and s14 means and like what the diff types of engines and swaps means.. thanks alot

Garrett NY

[TanManS14]

http://www.srownersclub.com/faq/faq_s13_black.asp Here you go dude, next time look it up though.

[S14KoukiMonster]

TanMan- Sounds like both sides of that synchro gear are shot. The 1st gear side of my 1-2 synchro is going too, it does't like being put into first while slowing to a stop. I'm going sr too. Wanted the RB26, but It's more cash, more work, and I talked to someone who has one in a Zenki, who said it threw off the balance of his car compared to his buddies S14 W/sr. I also know that parts for that engine would be harder to source.I'm looking for a black top sr pretty soon so I can re-build it and have it ready to install by May, when the weather gets nice up here. Then I want to buy my buddies white auto 89 fastback w/a blown ka24e and drop in my existing ka24de+5spd(after I replace my synchro)

[TanManS14]

Ya, I actually drove my first sr yesterday, it was awesome! I still dont know what sr that I want though, I might just go front clip of a redtop sr or im looking at the notchtop, are you going with a front clip? If I did go front clip it would be way cheaper right, as apposed to getting new radiator, front mount ect?. Im not looking for monster power though, I want to get it tuned to run at like 12 pounds of boost or so and keep it there. With that in mind would it be better to go notchtop or just a normal redtop, would it spool faster with the ball bearing turbo the notchtop supplies, thanks?

[ghettoslide]

OBD1 does not require a scan tool. You can use a paper clip to jump it at the port. The code will flash on the dash. The check engine kight will blink pause the blink again. Thats you code. Example three flashes pause six flashes code thirtysix. Look it up and that is what circuit you problem is in. Also remember metal expands when it heats up, check your valve seats and make sure they are sealing at tempature. This does sound like a mass air flow problem, but it should do this all time not just at tempature. My guess is this is a electronic problem that happens only in closed loop. Try disabling your tempature sensor and driving around for awhile to see if it does it, just make sure your cooling fans come on.

[s14junky]

Had the same symptom. Drove me nuts. Went through MUCH more than you did. My ECU wouldnt even throw me a code.Turned out my Camshaft position sensor was crapping out.Needless to say i learned the hard way about , EGR, IACV and all the pain in the *** things to work on.After i discovered the bad CMPS I beat it with a sledge hammer with great predudice. Hopefully your codes will help you more than mine did. Good luck, post your results.