Hey guys, sorry this is not a CA pics thread as I have not yet bought the motor. To appease your appetite for shiny stuff, I have decided to include what pics I took of the KA motor after it was taken out, broken down, and post machine shop.
The project:
First, I spotted the car. Decent looking chassis, automatic with a bad knock. Nobody wanted it. At $1,350, it was perfect for my purposes. The only reason I rebuilt the KA is because I was trying to make it roadworthy so that I could drive it home before I went overseas to lovely Afghanistan for a year.
So, as soon as I got the car, I went to work. I had about 6 workdays to pull the motor, strip it down to the bare block, take it to a machine shop, get it back, clean the head and all the other components, put it together again, and put it back in the car.
Naturally, the first thing I did was to drain the primary fluids running through the engine and transmission. Engine oil, transmission oil, and radiator fluid were my key concerns. Since the car hadn't run in a long time, I didn't expect fuel pressure would be a problem (and it wasn't). Once the car was dry, I took out the radiator and clutch fan to give myself some workspace. Taking off the A/C compressor, P/S and alternator proved to be a pretty simple task at this point.
Since time was of the essence, I opted not to remove the transmission. In an MT, that probably would have been a smart move, but the AT is quite a ***** to separate from the motor. Goddamn torque converters.
Once the engine was out, I quickly began to discover that there is a whole lot of work involved in rebuilding an engine that is this old, especially if it was cared for by someone who forgets to refill the oil. Here's pics of the motor before it went to the machine shop. So dirty! There was actually SLUDGE caked all over the oil pan, but 10 minutes at the wash station got it nice and clean.
You probably can't tell by the pics, but the #4 bearing was spun like nobody's business. Knock? More like bang. The oil in the bottom of the pan looked like glitter.
I took it to a local machine shop in Fayetteville, NC, and had them clean the short block up for me, replace the piston rings, throw in the new crank and rods, and clean up the oil collector. Much better!
While the machine shop had the block for 2 days, I took some time to clean up some of the rust on the exhaust and intake ports, as well as clean up the head a bit.
Note: the rubber gasket Nissan used to seal the intake was practically glued on. It took 4 hours and some methods I'm not proud of to clean it all off.
I wish I had more pics to show you guys, but as this was a rush job I only had time to snap a few photos. The day I got the block back was the last shop workday before Christmas, so I spent every second reassembling the motor to try and get it back in the car and hooked up. Word to the wise: don't reassemble a motor in a hurry! I accidentally set the torque wrench to 25ft/lbs when I put in the timing idle gear bolt, and STRIPPED OUT THE HEAD.
Even though the rebuild was ultimately a complete failure, it was a great learning experience, and it wasn't a total loss either - I've still got a nice rebuilt KA block sitting in my garage in TN, and plenty of spare parts to go around. I might throw it in my '90 as a temp until I have the time and money to do the RB26DETT in '08.
So, finally, the CA shopping list. I've already worked out my budget based on projected income minus bills and a few other things, and it comes out to $4,581. Since the objective is to make the car run well with a stock CA engine (not upgrade performance), this modest budget is more than enough to achieve my short term goals.
First, I need to turn that Automatic into an MT-ready vehicle. I already bought the brake pedal, clutch pedal, clutch MC and SC, and an S13 MT crossmember (courtesy of NicoClub members). A clutch hydraulic line costs about $25 bucks shipped (or I might fab one for the fun of it). Only thing left is a 5spd driveshaft. The guys at driveshaftshop.com make a nice 1-piece for $450
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item156111.ctlg
Now I need a motorset. I've priced the CA18DET at about $1,300. Thanks to the advice of some of you NicoClub members, I decided to wire the harness for my new CA18DET myself. Great referral by ch187 to the SR wiring writeup at FRsport.com
Obviously, this (not-so-new) motor will need to be taken apart, cleaned up and rebuilt with new gaskets and fresh seals. On that note, I am looking for a little advice on how to clean some of the carbon out without dissassembling valvetrain or taking out the bottom end. Tools, solvents, methods?
Based on what happened with David's CA18DET rebuild, I've decided to air on the side of caution by pre-emptively buying a new clutch and flywheel.
Already ordered my 12.7lbs steel flywheel from Mr. Gordon Duax. Check out his CA flywheel thread - $300 for Nico members plus shipping and paypal fees (if you choose to paypal). Mine came out to $327
To get some grab on my new Ogawa lightweight CA flywheel, I will get a Dual Friction clutch from Centerforce.
With all the basics covered, and some green still left in the budget, I thought about what I could do to give the engine a nicer home to live in until I get some more money to throw at that bad boy.
While the KA radiator is certainly capable of running a stock tuned CA18DET, I decided that now is as good a time as any to start giving my newly swapped engine lower coolant temps. For this task, I will trust Koyo to get the job done with their R1276 aluminum OEM replacement. $321 at InjectedPerformance.com
Since liquid intercooling is the path I want to take with this setup, I will do it for the initial installation. Colder intake charges never hurt anyone. For more info on this setup, see my Intercooling thread. I priced the parts at retail around $1300, but I have seen the parts cheap enough (ebay and the like) to bring the whole system's price down to under $700.
(actual intercooler)
At this point, I'm sitting on about $500 leftover (I oversestimated the prices on everything so this is a realistic number). I was planning on eventually adding water injection to my intake system, so I might as well do it now and steam clean that dirty engine! I'll be going for a kit like this one.
Now the car's got everything it needs + some little goodies to make it a smooth revving DD until I can do a full-scale rebuild and start making some real HP.
Edit: just reserved a set of urethane motor mounts from jrivera. Check out his Urethane Motor Mounts thread.
Questions, comments, suggestions?
Modified by wewders at 10:23 PM 5/12/2007
Modified by wewders at 5:30 PM 6/12/2007