my 600+ whp 350z

[jerryd1987]

ive mentioned it a couple times before and since there has been interest i might as well post it. i bought it with the express interest of rebuilding it, was actually in the market for a 240sx for a rb30 swap but came across it for a good deal, its a 03 enthusiast was bluebooked for 15k5 but purchased it for 11k from a dealer because it was winter in ohio(this was nov 2010). have had a couple 500 hp camaros i used to drag back in the day so i decided for more this go around, original goal was 800 to the wheels however the clutch started to slip at 600 ft lbs of torque at 4800 rpms on the last dyno run and was still running very rich(11.0:1 afr i was gaining about 10-15 rwhp every time i pulled about 3% fuel) so i pulled a little more to get it to 11.5:1 and called it good. currently at the hobby shop(im military so housing throws a b**** fit if i work on it in the driveway, was like the world was ending when i rebuilt the engine in the driveway.) so ill have to get some more pics after i finish the new clutch.) some mods from the parts list is im ditching the meth kit i had for 34/66 mix of dupont 105 laquer thinner and 92 octane for 100 octane fuel since the 18 gph of meth i was running gave me 100 octane at 13 psi boost but only 96.5 at 32(which is what it will be running on the new clutch) also ditched the fuel swirl pot in favor of a fuel cell since it mostly tends to be a well a fast street car we will say lol. aalso ditching the kinetix intake in favor of a revup for when i do cams at tax time, cutting the runners out of the revup lower to reduce them in length by about 3 or 4 inchs to right shift the power band some and because after cams i intend to spin it to 8k and mayby upgrade to the 66 exhuast wheel. anyway heres the parts list prior to the current revisions which i will post pics of when done.

random:
racer parts wholesales 24 row oil cooler kit with mocal thermostat
full autometer guages minus speed hut tach and speedo(ditching stock guages)
haltech platinum(old style but im in the process of wiring it for standalone)
haltech boost control solenoid
haltech dual wideband
dynosty dual wideband gauge
nrg quick release and hub
personal neo grinata leather steering wheel
twm short shifter
cheepo 1 lb shift knob
boosted performance oil catch can
tsw interlaggos 18x10.5 all 4 corners, 285/30/18 in front(general exclaims need to replace with toyo r888's) 305/35/18 rear

engine:
kinetix intake manifold
04 mustang TB with lokar throttle cable(gets tps voltage from pedal sensor)
bc titanium springs and retainers
ports and cams stock
wossner 8:1 pistons
pauter rods
acl hx series bearings
cosworth oil control baffle
boosted performance mid mount turbo kit with precison 6765 cea and heat wrapped y pipe
meagan ceramic coated and heat wrapped headers
dynosty solid motor mounts
dynosty stopper style head gasket
l19 head studs
arp main studs
both main and rod clearances .0035 both compression rings have .0030 end gaps
straight pipe exhuast
jwt flywheel and southbend feramic full face(being replaced by custom southbend 6 puck)

fuel system(old)
walbro 255 feeding Integrated engineering surge tank
dual bosch 044's in the surge tank
cjm fuel rails
precision 1200 cc injectors
aeromotive a1000 fpr
all stainless line, -6an feeding surge tank, dual -8 an feeding rails, -6an return, and -4 an overflow from surge tank to fuel tank
custom direct port meth kit with 3 gph nozzles per runner.



























newest dyno, ignore torque the dyno couldnt pick up the rpm signal so i had to calculate off of tires, gearing and speed(tires at the time where 285/30/18 in the rear)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-TDZQxAP_o

first dyno still needed tuned
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPktIxZOZO4

[jerryd1987]

oh yah future plans include a 3.3 rear dif with after market lsd(not sure which since options are limited for the auto dif.), solid bushings, full spl suspension with hotchkis sway bars and either ohlins or truechoice coil overs, floor mount pedals, wilwood 13 inch bbk, and some aero thinking one piece carbon front end and carbon rear hatch with lexan. mayby the c west long nose body kit with the gt wing, cannards and apr diffuser for interior ill go for some carbon buckets 10 point cage and harnesses money is the biggest issue lol already have about 28k invested just in parts

[ManDogFish]

nice car...

looks like it costed a **** load.

did you build it to race it or just for s*** and giggles??
cuz... the weigh reduction looks extreme but u have big rims with low prof tires...

[jerryd1987]

its my own personal interpretation of the ultimate street car haha however it will see the track. i went with 18's because that is the minimum needed for the wilwood 13 inch kit and brembos, only a few 17's fit the stock brembos and thats only in the rear. went with 10.5 inch rims because the tires are wide as hell, that pic is the old tires also i was running 285/30/18 all 4 corners but since im going with toyo r888's on the street now the front is going to get either 265 or 275/35/18 and a 9 or 9.5 inch rim and the rears aleady have 305/35/18 toyos which is as large as you can fit without rubbing an 0 camber(and they do just lightly touch under max compression, they are a 26.4 inch tall tire, sidewalls are almost as big as stock only .2 inchs smaller on each side of the rim but a much better compound and way wider)

not to mention the 18x10.5 interlaggos are 21.5 lbs, so i went a inch bigger in diameter and 3 inchs wider in the front and 2.5 inchs wider in the rear and saved 2.5 lbs up front and 4 lbs in the rear. i know people say stock enthusiast wheels weigh less but i put mine on a couple different scales and showed 24 lbs front, 25.5 rear +/- .1 lbs between 3 scales. outside drag racers who like to run 15's just about everyone i see is running 17's or 18's except civic guys for time attack, road racing, autocross, standing mile. at 32 psi boost im prob gona have to experiment to get some 17's though, i really dont like bias ply tires on the street though.

and yah like i said before ive got about 28k invested just in parts, 1k for machine work(damn this island is expensive) and 11k for the car.