my 26 is toast!

[SullivanRacing06]

so i got home around 2 last night from orlando with my girl, let her go to sleep so i go out to the shop and decided to take agnus (my 240) for a quick cruise up to the gas station, on my way back i notice my oil pressure gauge start to move up and down a lil bit, then it drops to 0! so what are the chances that my brand new N1 oil pump f*&kd up on me, or the crank collar that top hat installed for me twisted on the crank? any suggs would be greatly appt!!!!! now im sitting at my computer feeling

[eh?]

so i got home around 2 last night from orlando with my girl, let her go to sleep so i go out to the shop and decided to take agnus (my 240) for a quick cruise up to the gas station, on my way back i notice my oil pressure gauge start to move up and down a lil bit, then it drops to 0! so what are the chances that my brand new N1 oil pump f*&kd up on me, or the crank collar that top hat installed for me twisted on the crank? any suggs would be greatly appt!!!!! now im sitting at my computer feeling

Either is possible but make sure there are no wiring problems first.

[drftnrps13]

that happened to me on my sr and it turned out to be a loose ground connection on the sensor. check ur wiring and also inspect the oil line for kinks in it(if its a mechanical gauge)

[raremotive]

If you start the engine now do you have oil pressure? If no then check out the wiring, if it's ok, then time to yank the front out.

But if you have pressure still...

sounds like cavitation in the oil pump. Which would explain why the oil gauge was weaving, then the drop to zero... and then oil pressure returns.

I seen this happen on these motors when the oil is being forced away from the pick up. The foamy oil is then low enough for the pump to suck it in, and since the oil pump is under a vacuum tiny bubbles expand until a complete cavitation. Soon as any tiny bubbles enter the system, means the pump is pumping less oil, exactly what your gauge was reading through weaving at different levels, then 0 at complete cavitation.

Do you have the stock oil pan and baffles on still by chance?

I ask because it's been more and more the case that the oil pick up has not been baffled properly.

If so then modifications like extending the pick-up... like welding a tube like the Nismo Z-tune GTR. Tomei sells a trap door baffle to fit stock pan. Or a larger capcity oil pan. Then there's always dry $ump.

And on the side note... Besure you are putting the right amount of oil in your engine.
Modified by Rare_f8 at 11:59 AM 6/15/2008

[Booztd 3]

I'd check/replace the sensor before getting to worked up.

The RB26 and Z32 oil pressure sensors are the same, and extremely prone to failure. Mine failed completely a few months back (always reads 0 now) and before failing completely it would randomly drop to 0, I verified pressure was good by installing a Defi pressure gauge.

[Cjmartz2k]

I'd check/replace the sensor before getting to worked up.

The RB26 and Z32 oil pressure sensors are the same, and extremely prone to failure. Mine failed completely a few months back (always reads 0 now) and before failing completely it would randomly drop to 0, I verified pressure was good by installing a Defi pressure gauge.

x2 on that. Did the little orange warning light below the gauge come on too? It uses a separate on/off sensor. Do you guys even have those on 240's?

[gawdzilla]

x2 on that. Did the little orange warning light below the gauge come on too? It uses a separate on/off sensor. Do you guys even have those on 240's?

there is a dummy warning light on 240s, just no pressure gauge. the sender looks the same too, but it's 1 wire instead of 2. depends if he wired it or not.

[SullivanRacing06]

i have a mechanicl oil pressure gauge that have a -4 ss an line running to it, its in the factory gtr oil sending unit location, (i dont trust elec gauges for the reasons that yall have listed above, im thinkingaboutbuying a greedy pump now, i guess its insurance for down the road,

[SullivanRacing06]

If you start the engine now do you have oil pressure? If no then check out the wiring, if it's ok, then time to yank the front out.

But if you have pressure still...

sounds like cavitation in the oil pump. Which would explain why the oil gauge was weaving, then the drop to zero... and then oil pressure returns.

I seen this happen on these motors when the oil is being forced away from the pick up. The foamy oil is then low enough for the pump to suck it in, and since the oil pump is under a vacuum tiny bubbles expand until a complete cavitation. Soon as any tiny bubbles enter the system, means the pump is pumping less oil, exactly what your gauge was reading through weaving at different levels, then 0 at complete cavitation.

Do you have the stock oil pan and baffles on still by chance?

I ask because it's been more and more the case that the oil pick up has not been baffled properly.

If so then modifications like extending the pick-up... like welding a tube like the Nismo Z-tune GTR. Tomei sells a trap door baffle to fit stock pan. Or a larger capcity oil pan. Then there's always dry $ump.

And on the side note... Besure you are putting the right amount of oil in your engine.

Modified by Rare_f8 at 11:59 AM 6/15/2008

it has no oil pressure at all, im using a stock gtr oil pan that i cut the diff off of, still has the stock baffles in, using 6qts of oil

[WhatsADSM]

Wow... that is really weird.

A OE pump N1 or not really shouldn't just up and die on you like that. Did you have any weird overrev conditions or something? Otherwise I would take a long hard look at that crank collar. I wouldn't want a bad collar to kill an expensive greddy pump.

[SullivanRacing06]

ive done allot of buisness with mike at tophat, hopefully its not a bad crank collar, this is startig to piss me off, hopefully none of the bearings r scared

[Coolwhip]

yea, double check your motor for damage.

and if you want a pump I have a JUN pump in stock.

[raremotive]

it has no oil pressure at all, im using a stock gtr oil pan that i cut the diff off of, still has the stock baffles in, using 6qts of oil

I actually was waiting for your response. I was going to mention N1 are known to crap out, you are better off to get a Nismo, Trust, Jun, or Tomei pump... it's expensive.. but it's insurance...

[SullivanRacing06]

u have a jun in stock? how much and what kind of warranty can u give me? this pump going to screw up on me?

[Coolwhip]

u have a jun in stock? how much and what kind of warranty can u give me? this pump going to screw up on me?

email me, [email protected]

[FAST-DATSUN]

IT'S USUALLY NOT THE PUMP.... There is a mechanical reason if there is no oil pressure with a new pump. Bad bearings or maybe the new drive was installed wrong on the crank...find out what's wrong and why, the make your repairs.

[l0nestar]

Exactly.

Pull the motor and begin tearing it down to find the culprit(s)!

If you pull the plugs, can you rotate the crank by hand / with a breaker-bar? Can you get it to turn over at all? Can you 'blip' the starter a few times to attempt to build oil pressure?

Also, crank collars should be heated & pressed on, then tightened with the grub-screw, then polished smooth, just to prevent this. Or better yet, welded on!

[240z4u]

Exactly.

Pull the motor and begin tearing it down to find the culprit(s)!

If you pull the plugs, can you rotate the crank by hand / with a breaker-bar? Can you get it to turn over at all? Can you 'blip' the starter a few times to attempt to build oil pressure?

Also, crank collars should be heated & pressed on, then tightened with the grub-screw, then polished smooth, just to prevent this. Or better yet, welded on!

So I wasn't supposed to open up the collar with a ball hone then hammer it on? I did tap it and put an 8/32 screw in there to hold it. I splurged on stainless.

Evan

[SullivanRacing06]

it was the oil pump that broke, i wasnt even driving the car hard when it ll happened! my low oil pressure light came on so i shut the car off and glid into my shop, i already tore the entire motor apart, the inner piece in the pump spun and broke, i can see where it spun on the crank, i have the whole motor back together now w new main n rod bearing, (thanks tophat for screwing me!) and im fabbing up a moroso 1 stage drysump pump to sit where the a/c compressor usually sits, then thru a diesel oil filter then thru a very large oil cooler, im elimating the factory gtr liquid to liquid oil cooler on the side of the block, all in all ill have about 600 into the new oiling set up which kicks the hell outta a 1250 greddy pump anyday!

[dwnshfter]

damn, looks like your oil setup will be all but perfect! pics?
Modified by dwnshfter at 9:31 AM 8/16/2008

[l0nestar]

So I wasn't supposed to open up the collar with a ball hone then hammer it on? I did tap it and put an 8/32 screw in there to hold it. I splurged on stainless.

Evan

Good thing you went stainless, or that could be bad news!

[SullivanRacing06]

damn, looks like your **** will be all but perfect! pics?

all but perfect? **** i wish it was any where near perfect

[FAST-DATSUN]

If the oil pump drive spun on the crank and broke the the new drive must have been left off or something because the new drives fit tigher and its hard to believe that one could sping the drive on one , Pictures Please!!!!

[240z4u]

Good thing you went stainless, or that could be bad news!

Yeah totally!

[SullivanRacing06]

Yeah totally!

damm i wish top hat actually insatlled one for me instead of fuc!in me for the money, now their tryin to make me out ike a idiot screw top hat f u mike , name thp