my 240 wont idle cold!

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maniacman9558
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so i finally got my 240 running but when it doents want to idle or take throttle while its cold but if you keep it running by pounding the throttle for like 10-15mins it runs perfect no idle problems or stuttering.


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youngun21a
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Car: 240sx 1993 Automatic

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Temp sensor..check it..

maniacman9558
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already got a new one and replaced it and still does the same =/

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youngun21a
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Also check TPS...and does it giving u any codes..

maniacman9558
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last time a checked it didnt but i will look again and how do you go about cheaking that? cuz ive never done that befor

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locoluna825
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mine used to do the same thing it was my injectors leaking and fouling the plugs as it was sitting, after the car has ran a little while the plugs would begin to get rid of the s*** on them causing it to run better after 10- 15 like you.

maniacman9558
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hmm alright. well i also found somthing out that im leading to beleave its my TPS going bad but i still dont know why it would stop after its running for awhile. but anyway if i turn the car and dont touch the throttle it will idle pretty good but if i rev it then the idling goes to s*** then untill it gets warmed up.

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locoluna825
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that could also be a tps sensor ide replace that first if anything cheaper than injector anyway...

maniacman9558
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yea will have one tomorrow and omg yea stock new injectors are like 83 bucks a peice! i had no idea they were that exspensive!

Klits562
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ya they're expensive but before you go and just replace them, check them first. remove the entire fuel rail with the injectors still attached and turn the car to i think the start mode(the one before you start the car) if fuel drips from them then you have leaky injectors. I do believe thats how the test goes.

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locoluna825
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i tried that once any one of my injectors just blew right off the rail. might have been the bad seal install though, don't know for sure though.

someone suggested to keep this from happening, after you have drove the car around, immediately after you ave turned the car off. remove the fuel rail, completely attached, injectors and lines. you can disconnect the harness plugs though. and place a piece of paper under the injectors and let it sit. then check everyone and a while for discolored drops on the paper.

Klits562
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hmm i have a friend moving to hesperia anyway back on topic maniac you can try either of those injector test might wanna do the paper one because I've never done either test so idk if the injectors will blow off I've read about it on here though.You can also try googling injector tests.Also if they are leaky I read in a magazine this company takes and refurbishes your injectors might be worth looking into.

maniacman9558
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hmm alright yea i will try that just got my new tps so gonna whip that on and while im at it i will try testing them. i will let you know what i come up with. thanks everyone!

maniacman9558
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so just replaced the TPS and checked my injectors and they dont leak but replacing the TPS didnt do s*** it still wont idle right when its cold.....

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locoluna825
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ohm test on injectors time

maniacman9558
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hmm alright i will try that

maniacman9558
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so i was driving my car around last night and it seem like the new tps made things worse....now is there a wrong way to instaul a tps? is so can someone tell me the right way??

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locoluna825
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not really it only goes on one way and it plugs in only one way. its probably getting better readings now making it worse XD somehow

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locoluna825
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did you do an ohm test on yoru injectors yet? also if you can compression test too. pull your plugs and check them over.

maniacman9558
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not yet i will tonight tho. and i dont have a crompresstion tester i mean i can rent one or somthing but this weekend im gonna be pulling the motor back out because i need to replace valve seals and check my oil ring on the pistons cuz im buring like a qrt of oil after driving it for 4hrs or so..........was just trying to figure the prob out so could just reinstaul the motor and drive without any hassle.

liquid_cool
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locoluna825 wrote:i tried that once any one of my injectors just blew right off the rail. might have been the bad seal install though, don't know for sure though.

someone suggested to keep this from happening, after you have drove the car around, immediately after you ave turned the car off. remove the fuel rail, completely attached, injectors and lines. you can disconnect the harness plugs though. and place a piece of paper under the injectors and let it sit. then check everyone and a while for discolored drops on the paper.
too funny bro...on stock ka24de injector rails..the injector is secured throu a cap on the outside portion of the rail..so removing said rail would have no effect on the injector itself...the only way an injector would fly off therail is if you did not have it secured with the OEM cap..or if you did a top feed convertion and did not wire the injectors to the rail..if he is oem..he can just remove the rail..and prime it to see if they leak or not...dont fear about injectors flying out..thats crap unless there installed wrong by an idiot....as for this issue..im thinking TPS myself..sounds like what one of mine did..same symptoms.

liquid_cool
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

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you will have to position that new TPS in the proper place where the screws hold it in for it to work correctly...allso..if you have aftermarket aluminum pistons..they will take a few to warm up and expand due to the metal change from aluminum pistons in an iron block..they expand differently and heat up differently..with after market pistons..there is a warm up time before they expand and seal properly...hope this helps.

maniacman9558
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yea na i knew i wouldnt have probs with my injectors flying out so already did the leak test and were fine and i honestly dont know if they are aluminum or not. i will have to ask the guy i got it from to see if he knows.

maniacman9558
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and how do i know if its in the proper place? just kinda move it and see if it gets better or worse??

liquid_cool
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

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thats about it...just move it slightly ..there is a kinda dead spot justr about where the tps is in position..hard to explain..but when you moove it..you will notice the change and how it jumps the idle up really fast..thats just past the perfect point for the setting.

maniacman9558
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alright thanks i will try that and see what happens

maniacman9558
Posts: 71
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Car: 93 240sx n/a KADE (for now! =P)
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Location: lancaster, PA

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well that seemed to fix my problem cuz the last couple day didnt need to warm it up or anything so thanks to everyone that helped i really appreciate it! but i still got to pull the dam motor back out


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