My 1996 Q45t is having problems recently..

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kimrober
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Hello,I have a 1996 Q45t and it happened a few days ago. While I was moving slowly after stopping at traffic signal, with a few lights on the dash such as TCS lighted up and the engine stalled with steering wheel locking up. Sometimes, warnings like weak battery or stop light inoperable shows up while all of them worked fine. Also, when I was driving on local highway, the RPM ran wild up and down and car shaked. Today at my parking lot, as I was reversing, the engine stalled again more than 6 times! I made an appointment to drop off the car on wednesday with the maintenance dept. in the local dealership but I'm very worried. What could be problem?Thank you.

Robert


DAEDALUS
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The first part sounds a lot like a bad alternator, but the brake led would have been on too. The wild RPMs and stalling don't sound related though. Maybe a bad MAF sensor?

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Q451990
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Sounds like the MAF connection to me, but I think that was updated by 1996 to a more reliable design. Does your "check engine" light come on?

A lot of it also sounds like it could be a low battery or bad alternator. Low voltage can cause all kinds of problems, and I suspect even more in your OBDII version of the Q.

Heath

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elwesso
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Since you have OBDII, take your car to the nearest autoparts store, and they can plug a scanner into it to see whats going on (IE by reading the codes.....)

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TorQue45
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Only Autozone gives free ODB II scan.

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elwesso
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I thought places like advance and NAPA would do it to....

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TorQue45
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I have not checked with NAPA, but Advance does not do it.

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Jeff Williams
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Robert, My vote is for the MAF, on the stalling, and running rough.

My vote is for the battery on the crazy lights.

Buy a new battery, a can of fuel injector cleaner, and a can of brake cleaner from Autozone.

use about 1/2 the can of cleaner, on the MAF, and surrounding intake hose. Use the whole can of FI cleaner on the throttle body, and butterfly valve. Change out the battery.

Then take the $500 you saved, on a dealership servcie call, and have it detailed.

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kimrober
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Wow, Thank all of you for kind help. I'm so glad to be a NICO member! :)Actually, I replaced my battery (which is one of those 7 year maintenance free) not so long ago, perhaps a few month ago. I do see check engine light on now all the time. Whenever I see my dash, I'm so distressed.. :( I plan to take my Q to the dealer to check tomorrow morning and I hope it doesn't cost too much (like 4 digit $$)..By the way, what's MAF and OBDII? I'm not tech minded.. :)And thank you again for helping me out! I'll keep in mind about the cleaners. Thanks guys!

Robert

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Hey guys ... I got a flat tire!!!

"use about 1/2 the can of cleaner, on the MAF, and surrounding intake hose. Use the whole can of FI cleaner on the throttle body, and butterfly valve. Change out the battery."

Jeff Williams

Jeff luv ya brother - but like every post recently seems like the ultimate solution is to CLEAN the MAF - LOL .... Just a funny observation - laffing "w/ you" bro - not AT you. Dont take it the wrong way .. Im in a goofy mood.

maxnix
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A lot of less than pristeen MAF snsors out there.

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Jeff Williams
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SOCAL91Q45a wrote:Hey guys ... I got a flat tire!!!

"use about 1/2 the can of cleaner, on the MAF, and surrounding intake hose. Use the whole can of FI cleaner on the throttle body, and butterfly valve. Change out the battery."

Jeff Williams

Jeff luv ya brother - but like every post recently seems like the ultimate solution is to CLEAN the MAF - LOL .... Just a funny observation - laffing "w/ you" bro - not AT you. Dont take it the wrong way .. Im in a goofy mood.


I'm cool. Goofy moods run rampant, in my house. Actually, the last flat tire I had, I used a can of brake cleaner on the MAF, and the car ran much better, except it was a little lopsided.:D

I guess the reason I mention this process so much, is because I clean mine, once a month (product of dusty jobsites, and my K&N POP charger), and the car runs like is brand new, afterwards - everytime. You can't even fell the idle at stop lights.

I paid $65 to find this out out the first time - the dealership cleaned it for me.

I figure I have saved $2,500 in dealership visits, just by advice like this, on this site, and just want to pass it on.

Robert, The MAF is the sensor just downstream (towards the intake) of your air filter. It takes about 30 minutes to disassemble the box, and hoses. Then another 30 minutes to clean everything. Let it dry out for an hour, then re-assemble. If you clean the butterfly and throttlebody, it may be hard to start. If it dosen't start like usually, just floor it, and keep turning over the engine, it will fire. (This is the way to start a flooded Q45).

This is just a little harder than changing the airfilter, or oil.

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Q451990
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Jeff Williams wrote:...because I clean mine, once a month (product of dusty jobsites, and my K&N POP charger), and the car runs like is brand new


Doesn't is scare you how much grit and dirt is getting into the engine if your MAF needs to be cleaned every month?

Heath

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Q451990
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kimrober wrote:Actually, I replaced my battery (which is one of those 7 year maintenance free) not so long ago, perhaps a few month ago. I do see check engine light on now all the time.


Robert,

If you have a multi-meter, check the voltage at idle at the battery terminals - should be about 14V DC. It's entirely possible that your battery is good but the alternator is marginal or failing. Since you have the "Check Engine" light on - you need to have that diagnosed, but I'd check the alternator voltage first. Cars do all kinds of crazy stuff under low voltage.

Heath

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Jeff Williams
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Q451990 wrote:Doesn't is scare you how much grit and dirt is getting into the engine if your MAF needs to be cleaned every month?

Heath
Yep.

Mostly, the MAF is covered in oil, from the K&N Filter. The only dirt I have found is oily dirt, and looks like a film, not mud or grit.

The K&N Filters are warrantied, and I have been using them for millions of miles.

I am not concerned about particles in the micron or angstrom size.

The only thing that is getting through these filters is the size of smoke particles, and the car can handle that.

The MAF is very sensitive, and a critical part of the efficiency of the car. Mine is 10 years old, and has been moving air, for 180,000 miles (mostly at full velocity).

I try to avoid construction sites, but I am working on an 11 billion dollar construction site, and it tends to be a dusty site.

K&N says clean the filter every 50,000 miles. I have been doing it every 5,000 to 15,000 miles, depending on how many trips I make to the jobsite, and whether it is mud, or dust.

Bin_jammin
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I'd check voltage first, under load, to see if the alternator is trouble free. Seeing as how the MAF uses a hot-wire sensor, if it's not getting the correct input voltage, it won't put out the correct voltage. MAF's are easy to diagnose too, put a meter on it, blow air through it, and check the voltage. Also, check the belt tension, and quality of the alternator belt, a slipping belt on the highway that is fine at idle would be a fun one to drive. And remember, when it comes battery time, never use Exide :) Keep us posted on progress...

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kimrober
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Thank you all for the great tips and advices, this will be a good document for others who'll might experience similar problems!First, I would take a good note about the diagnostics and cleanings, however I'm kind of weak hearted to open the sensitive part of the car and make it worse than before.. :)I took the car to the dealer and they gave me a work order form with $200 on it. $100 for the computer diagnosis and another $100 for the loaner. I got 2002 I35 and this car has some very nice features including controls for the sound system on the steering wheels, HIDs, and bright LED gauge which I love the most :DThey say it will take more than one day to figure out the problem, so I'll keep you guys updated about this.Thank you

Robert

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I hope the loaner fee is applicable to the reapir bill if it is >$500.

I assume they are the only dealer on the island and act like it.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

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kimrober
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Hi guys,I got the Q back from the dealer and they said they've found two codes after running the diagnosis, MAF Sensor and Cam Shaft Position Sensor seems to be the problem. However, they said that after more than a week of test driving, they could not reproduce the same symptom so they suggested me to just drive around, they wroted on the paper that the price for MAF Senosr and labor was $720 so I said never mind. So I paid a check of $185 and brought the car back. And it happened again right next day. I took the car to local machanic that does my fluid changes regularly and asked for help. He had this small PDA and link hooked up to my car and figured out the codes the dealer figured out earlier (and he didn't even charge me for that!), he called few places for the new MAF and everywhere says only place I could order the part was from the dealer. Price -> $610. The machanic told me that's some ridiculous price for one sensor and suggested me look around in eBay, and he'll install it for me. And the "infiniti parts usa" came to my mind, I searched for the sensor, and VOILA! $366 for the sensor and $399 after shipping fee added. I ordered the part and am waiting for it. Again as I was coming back home from the work, the car went berserk and engine stalled again, had to shift back the P and restart, died again, and restart. I'm dying to get a new sensor... GOD!And yes, there's only one Infiniti dealer in the island, I liked the sales person though. :)

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kimrober wrote:And yes, there's only one Infiniti dealer in the island, I liked the sales person though. :)
I bet the first piece of candy is free too!

Be sure your technician checks all eletrical connections associated with your MAF sensor before you slap the new one on. Grounding could be a problem to investigate also. Does he have a Factory Service Manual?

The beauty of OBD II on a 1996 G50 is that any OBD II reader can show the codes.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

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kimrober
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I don't think he has the factory service manual, because he deals with all kinds of cars in his shop. I was thinking of buying the manual for myself but where can I find them? Is the CD-ROM stuff they selling at the eBay trustworty?Thank you. :)

Robert

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Jeff Williams
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kimrober wrote:I don't think he has the factory service manual, because he deals with all kinds of cars in his shop. I was thinking of buying the manual for myself but where can I find them? Is the CD-ROM stuff they selling at the eBay trustworty?Thank you. :)

Robert
I bought one off of eBay, and I could never get it to work right.

elwesso has mentioned a website, that you can subscribe to, and download the entire manual to your PC, including all the Technical Service Bulletins.

Risking the chance of someone making fun of me, but did you take the MAF out, and clean it with brake cleaner? My car gave me the MAF code at 110,000 miles. I paid $65 to learn how to clean it, and I have been cleaning it regularly, and now the car has 182,000 miles on it. It is a lot cheaper than a new one, although, they do fail.

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You can email me for a FSM CD.. :) Non ebay crap...

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kimrober wrote:I was thinking of buying the manual for myself but where can I find them?
If you have a reasonably high-speed Internet link, then go to this site:

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/infiniti/

and download the manual in PDF form (do remember to get all the TSB's too). Access to this site costs $19.95 for a day.

Or take up Elwesso on his offer! :)Quote »Is the CD-ROM stuff they selling at the eBay trustworty?[/quote]NO! They are totally useless - definitely do not waste your time on them.

Z

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My CDs are gratis... :)

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elwesso wrote:My CDs are gratis... :)


Cool! :)

Z

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I think I'd be more willing to use carb cleaner on the MAF, but I'd definately try cleaning it first. Also, boneyards will usually sell you a MAF for a lot cheaper. Around here I can usually pick one up for $50. With a 30 day warranty, it's worth a gamble, and if it's bad or will go bad, I'll usually find out fairly quickly. And yes, there are usually a couple q45s in the yard, totalled, and later models get parted out quickly, and parts cataloged. A decent boneyard should be able to help you out in your quest.

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Hmmm... maybe thats hwat I need to do.. Go on a ques for my underpanel!

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Jeff Williams
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Bin_jammin wrote:I think I'd be more willing to use carb cleaner on the MAF, but I'd definately try cleaning it first.
I thought taht, at first, too. I guess the Carb cleaner and FI cleaner leaves a residue, that the Brake Cleaner does not. Anyway, the Brake cleaner was suggested by more than one mechanic.

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Brake parts cleaner is also known as "electrical components cleaner".. same stuff, somtimes its labeled as brake parts cleaner, electrical parts cleaner, or brake and electrical parts cleaner...


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