My 1990 240sx sr20 build

[jrd450r]

This is my first post on the site even though i have browsed it the past couple months i decided i would share my build with you guys. I just recently got into cars, although ive been racing motorsports most all of my life. I raced atva motocross for a number of years on a national and local level. Im in school to be a mechanical engineer so i can hopefuly graduate and start my own business designing and builing high performance parts for cars. I figured it would be best if i started now learning how to do everything my self on a car, which is actually turning out not to be that challenging since ive been building race quads for the past 6 or so years by myself. Heres 2 bikes that i recently built and raced on:











So enough with that and on to the 240. I picked up a 1990 240sx that didnt look to be in to bad of condition. I bought it with the intentions to build a street/drift car that would be for fun since i already have my daily driver GMC canyon pickup truck. I got it for 1500 and it actually drove home Heres some pics from the Ebay auction:







As of right now its under extreme renovation, I cut out large portions of the rocker panels and rear quarter panels to replace any rusted metal. I also pulled the motor and ripped out the interior to remove the tar and paint it. Im at school now so once i get home ill get pics. Next week im sandblasting the engine bay and painting it. I need some help here though, What color would be best to paint it? Black? Do they make a special paint for engine bays? Would Por15 Glass black be good to use? Also im doing a brake upgrade and im wondering if the z32 brakes are to big to fit smaller wheels on it like a 15in wheel? Check back ill update this posting as i build the car over the next few months.

Modified by jrd450r at 8:58 PM 1/17/2007
Modified by jrd450r at 8:43 PM 3/6/2007

[jrd450r]

UPDATEWell no one ever responded in here but i figured i might as well do an update any way. I decided from previous plans and chose to go the RB path. Its getting a series 2 RB25det. I have almost all my parts in needed for the swap except for the motor since i need to plan a weekend to do it. Here is the engine bay about a week ago, currently its finished being stripped and preped for paint.

Shaved the rice

no antenna for smoother body lines

Heres the interior after removing the dash, currently its totally stripped out

I have alot more done now than in the pics an will hopefully be able to get the newest updated pics up soon. Ill have to take some pics off all the sweet parts ive been getting in the last couple of months. I went with Low life Kustoms for the mounts and they are done waiting to be picked up and im going down there this week to order my driveshaft and possibly make plans to order the motor soon depending on my schedule with school.

[jrd450r]

I picked up this clutch for my original sr20det plans but no longer need it since im not using that motor. Its brand new, make an offer if you need one.

[corey240]

nic eproject going on there man, whatb you do with the wing? make it a shelf lol

[Bumnah]

wow totally missed this thread. looks interesting. why are you removing the dash and all? planning on gutting it? what are you painting the car?

[namu]

Hey, welcome to the forums! Congrats on the good deal.And nice atv pics.

[whiterps13]

Nice quad pictures, Ive always wanted one.

Sounds like youve got quite a monster waiting to be unleashed. What are your goals for the car?

[Lroi]

looking good! no one repiled to the original post?

welcome back!

[ShinHed]

Your thread looks good so far.Do it right the first time...

[daconkiftador]

UPDATEWell no one ever responded in here but i figured i might as well do an update any way.

LOL, sorry thats kinda funny.. but yeah looks like your still dedicated.. keep up the good work!

[sycle]

Nice work so far. Keep us posted on how work is going on it?

[srpowered240sx]

projects looking good. kick *** atv pictures. what motor is going back in??

[homeslicej2]

Black would be a good color to paint the bay. If you can find a color match for the exterior (assuming your keeping it the same color) then I would go with that. There are paint made for engines and engine bays. Your local autobody paint supply store will be able to point you in the right direction. As far as I understand it Z32 brakes will not fit under a 15" wheel and only some 16" rims. You have to go with 17" rims. Also if you do the Z32 conversion you have cut the splash guard, drill out the four lug pattern into the five lug rotors, upgrade the Brake Master Cylinder to the Z32 one, get new brake lines designed for the Z32 conversion, and I think you have to get a new rear proportioning valve (if you put the Z32 brakes on the rear) because the rear wheels will having too much braking force applied to them. I would go with some Infiniti Q45 or J30 brakes. They both work with 15" rims and both only require the splash guard to be cut and the five lug rotors to be drilled out to the four lug pattern. A machine shop can do this, or you can. The Q45 and J30 calipers accept the stock S13 brake line and do not require you to upgrade the Master cylinder or install a rear proportioning valve. The J30 rotors are a little smaller than the Q45's, but not by much, and the J30 calipers are less expensive. Go to the How-To section and click on the 240 technical link. There is a wealth of info on various things there and two articles on brake upgrades for the 240, one for the 300zx and one for the J30 upgrade.

[jrd450r]

Just to answer some questions, I ended up getting some por15 that im going to coat my engine bay in. Ive used this stuff before and its great, it resists oil, gas, and other chemicals and it doesnt chip. This way my bay can take some abuse when trying to fit the big inline 6 in the bay. For those who asked, im going with the RB25det engine, drivetrain set up. Its going to be run on stock internals at first till the summer when i get some more money and hopefully next winter I will be able to upgrade the internals and turbo. On this install it will be equiped with full exhaust, front mount, koyo radiator, and other nessasary items for the install. All this little **** that needs to be bought for the swap adds up so before you guys decide on this swap be sure to consider at least another $1K in stupid ****. This car is going to be a street car but not a daily driven one, more of a car to take out for fun on occasions and bring to the track on some weekends. As questioned, I pulled the dash for ease of removal of the AC system, and i ended up taking out the heating system but I will be reinstalling it once the car is up and running just so i can eliminate a variable in the install. Its also a hell of alot easier to wire up the car with the dash removed. I have some updated pics taken but their on my home computer. Ill also keep you guys updated on my dealings with Low Life Kustums who is supplying the mounts, driveshaft, and possibly the motor. Their price on the mounts was $250 which blows away the competition, but in reality $250 for what your getting isnt cheap but any other options like the mckinney are over $600 i think now.

[ShinHed]

If I were you, for the ease of painting, I'd sub stain from the Por-15 in the engine bay. It too, will succumbs to brake fluid and even power steering fluid. I know this because I coated the bare, floorboard of my s13, and the aforementioned fluids made it bubble up like...uh...well just know it bubbled up. Por-15 works great on rusty, pitted metal, and the Metal Ready solution doesn't give virgin metal enough "grip" to really hold onto the Por-15.

I recommend a good etching primer and sealer. Much easier to prep for paint.

[homeslicej2]

Wow RB25DET, that's sweet. I forgot to mention earlier, but if you haven't already, you should take out the dash support crossbar, get all the rust off, treat it with rust killer, and paint it too. Since you have the dash out it would be a good idea, not to mention easier to do. You have plans to race the car any? just wondering because the stock KA24E weighs 493 w/transmission and the RB25 is around 735 and of course longer since it's a 6. It throws off the balance of the car a bit. definitely post some pics. I want to see the motor installed, and post any dyno numbers you get. If you dyno it that is.

[jrd450r]

Small Update, Im picking up alot of parts this weekend so ill get some pics then, these pics are from like 2 weeks ago but i havent been able to work on the car since im away at school. Repainted Dash Support, its actually a flat black but looks grey here. I just through it in the car like that to get it off the floor temporarily, im not that big of a slob in the workplace.

Grr, more work on the shaving of the side markers, god i hate bondo with a passion!

Stripped bay waiting on a decision on how to paint it

[Chief_Suicide]

Nice body work. You might not like bondo, but you seem to have a talent for working with it. Looks good!

[jrd450r]

Wow RB25DET, that's sweet. I forgot to mention earlier, but if you haven't already, you should take out the dash support crossbar, get all the rust off, treat it with rust killer, and paint it too. Since you have the dash out it would be a good idea, not to mention easier to do. You have plans to race the car any? just wondering because the stock KA24E weighs 493 w/transmission and the RB25 is around 735 and of course longer since it's a 6. It throws off the balance of the car a bit. definitely post some pics. I want to see the motor installed, and post any dyno numbers you get. If you dyno it that is.

Beat you to the painting of the support, it just takes a while to get pics on here. As for the weight issue, its not really even an issue. Yes the RB weighs more, but you need to understand that it is longer, i dont know your educational background, but its easily understood with a background in statics and dynamics. Also the additional weight is also in the transmission, the transmission is close to the center of the chassis which reduces its effect on handling since the additional weight is applied to all 4 spindles rather than the front 2. A complete KA24de weighs in at 540lbs on the scale, and the Rb25det weighs in at 720lbs. This is a 180lb difference. Yes, some of this 180lbs is putting more weight down on the front end, but like i said before its not like your putting 180lbs on the front bumper, the additional weight is spread from the radiator support back to past the shifter. It would take math and measuring to figure out exact numbers but it is obviously an insignificant number. Just think, gas weight an est 6lbs, with 15 gallons of gas in your tank, your adding 90lbs to the rear of the car then your on empty and taking 90lbs out of the rear of the car but the handling still is very close to that of the full tank of gas. Or how about when you ride with a passenger, the average male weighs somewhere in the are of 180-225lbs. Does your car handle awful when you have a passenger, no. Vehicles are designed to have verying weights in them, thats why they mark on you door sill the allowable changes in weight. Hey i dunno about you but id rather have the 300+ Hp with a resonable stock RB than the 130some of a reasonable stock KA. People can argue the handling issue all they want but it doesnt get them anywhere becuase the swap is still going to be done, and its still not going to make a noticeable effect in the handing aspect of the car. Even if it was a huge difference, suspension tuning would allow the weight to be compensated for. No built car has the same weight bias as a 100% OEM car, just due to the fact that people take off things to lighten it, change the tires and wheel setup, add turbos and other various items that all add and remove weight. This whole weight arguement has been done too many times, the biggest variable in handling with out question is SUSPENSION, you can ask any chassis builder and you will always get the same answer. Here is a set of shocks I have, axis racing, penske built, nothing will effect handling more than a set of good shocks like these but youll pay ($1500 for these 2 shocks pictured obviously they are not for a 240 but they are real racing shock absorbers, the most influential aspect of handling)

[the_momo]

best...intro..EVAR!!!

welcome.

i am a total sucker for raciing fotos. i miss my quad.

i used to have a suzuki 250 back in the day....stock, but still fun as hell.

it still makes me laugh that people thing the extra weight of the rb makes a difference. ive driven an sr s13 and i own an rbs14. the s14 actually....handles better. likes to stay nice and sideways.

[homeslicej2]

Whoa! My bad. Just letting you know what I have heard. When I posted I didn't know your background either. What you said makes sense. I've just never thought of it that way or knew how the RB25 distributed its weight. Some might argue otherwise w/you, and I wasn't trying to affect your motor decision either way. I was just letting you know. I have a KA24E so it weighs 493lbs, 227lbs difference for my car. Yes, if you assemble the right suspension parts and set it up right, then the additional weight can be addressed. Still you are adding permanent additional weight either way. Heavier car, even with good suspension, still works that suspension harder than a lighter car, just like 400hp, even with a good buildup, is more likely to break something than 200hp. However, weight doesn't seem like it will be an issue for you though, bc you're stripping some stuff out like the A/C. Keep up w/the pics.

[Bwana]

Awesome thread, project and pics man! I can't believe this got no attention the first time around!

I don't know if it's been properly said yet, but...

Welcome to NICO!

[Bumnah]

Beat you to the painting of the support, it just takes a while to get pics on here. As for the weight issue, its not really even an issue. Yes the RB weighs more, but you need to understand that it is longer, i dont know your educational background, but its easily understood with a background in statics and dynamics. Also the additional weight is also in the transmission, the transmission is close to the center of the chassis which reduces its effect on handling since the additional weight is applied to all 4 spindles rather than the front 2. A complete KA24de weighs in at 540lbs on the scale, and the Rb25det weighs in at 720lbs. This is a 180lb difference. Yes, some of this 180lbs is putting more weight down on the front end, but like i said before its not like your putting 180lbs on the front bumper, the additional weight is spread from the radiator support back to past the shifter. It would take math and measuring to figure out exact numbers but it is obviously an insignificant number. Just think, gas weight an est 6lbs, with 15 gallons of gas in your tank, your adding 90lbs to the rear of the car then your on empty and taking 90lbs out of the rear of the car but the handling still is very close to that of the full tank of gas. Or how about when you ride with a passenger, the average male weighs somewhere in the are of 180-225lbs. Does your car handle awful when you have a passenger, no. Vehicles are designed to have verying weights in them, thats why they mark on you door sill the allowable changes in weight. Hey i dunno about you but id rather have the 300+ Hp with a resonable stock RB than the 130some of a reasonable stock KA. People can argue the handling issue all they want but it doesnt get them anywhere becuase the swap is still going to be done, and its still not going to make a noticeable effect in the handing aspect of the car. Even if it was a huge difference, suspension tuning would allow the weight to be compensated for. No built car has the same weight bias as a 100% OEM car, just due to the fact that people take off things to lighten it, change the tires and wheel setup, add turbos and other various items that all add and remove weight. This whole weight arguement has been done too many times, the biggest variable in handling with out question is SUSPENSION, you can ask any chassis builder and you will always get the same answer. Here is a set of shocks I have, axis racing, penske built, nothing will effect handling more than a set of good shocks like these but youll pay ($1500 for these 2 shocks pictured obviously they are not for a 240 but they are real racing shock absorbers, the most influential aspect of handling)

I agree with 98% of your post. But I'm all about SR swap because they are similar in weight to the oem motor, if not lighter. But about your only 130+ for the RB. I say this: a refrigerator that is 15 cu ft. weighs in at 175 lbs. so if you gut out 150+ lbs that's like going racing minus one refrigerator.

[eds13]

very nice. had my share of quads too 660 praptor, blaster, warrior, 300ex, fun stuff

[jrd450r]

Well here is a bit of an update, I was hoping to have my motor by now but still no phone call of a motor instock after waiting a month, my bay isnt painted yet though so im not that concerned. Im hoping to get my bay painted and everything under the hood preped for the motor this week. Heres some pics of showing whats going on with the project.Brand new core i picked up from a fellow 240er in jersey.

I also picked these up from a member on here in new york, they are temporary as in the beginning of summer im going to install a skyline rear and 5 lug and brake swap so these can hold me over till then.I painted the inside of the wheels black and the spoke part is getting painted gold, im not to sure how well this color will show up on here in my dark garageAbout ready for paint

Ripping out old smelly interior and cleaning/replacing/painting.

I installed my walbro and found some kind of pump other than stock but i dont know what it was so I put the walbro in. This was wrapped around the pump, should I have used this with the walbro?

My Low Life Kustoms motor mounts for the RB25

LLK uses a bolt through the mount instead of gluing it togther like top hat.

Picked up this guy with a new wick for 20 bucks to help keep warm.

The reason I bought this car was the body is pretty clean dent wise as you can see here.

My wheels that came with the car, any one want them?

Struts with eibach springs that came with the car, will be replaced with coil over this summer.

Head unit i picked up for free for the car.

DOHC cluster, hopefully I can get this to work, if not ill ditch it and get the R32 cluster since it fits pretty well in an s13.

Plugs i picked up for the RB, can someone comfirm i bought the right ones?

Some Por15 i picked up to go over some spots where i found rust, expensive stuff.

Oil pressure gauge

Some ******* sent me a gauge that doesnt read 0, any one know if this is fixible?

A lightshow gauge, will be replaced with wideband soon enough, i dont even know why i bought this one its useless.

wow these are good





let me know...

[jrd450r]

Can a mod here change my title to make it more appropiate since its an RB build now, and please move it to the RB forum. Thanks!

[jrd450r]

Update 2/25/07 I got to go and work on my car this weekend and got alot accomplished, Ill let the pics speak for themselves. My motor will be going in over my easter break. Anyone in here order from NismoParts? I ordered my timing belt last week and havent gotten it yet and they never sent me a confermation email, I called in the order and they said they would email me but never did.








Modified by jrd450r at 11:26 PM 3/25/2007

[dRiLstar]

it's looking good thank god u got rid of that wing

[ShinHed]

I hope that isn't Por-15 in your engine bay. Unless it's heavily rusted and pitted. it ain't gonna stick as well as a good epoxy primer and it won't happily accept a top coat like a good epoxy primer..

I know because, I did the floor board of my old s13 and I used Por and the ''Metal Ready' prep. Paint wouldn't stick and was still susceptible to brake fluid, power steering fluid and even a melted piece of candy.

Anyway, your project looks like you mean business

[boxcarracer]

ssellll those rims to me when yourdooonee and do ur 5 lug conversion please in NY ill pick it up please