Multiple Red Top SR20 problems in S14. Need Help

[240addiction]

Problem number one: I had the wiring done by Wiring Specialties and have no check engine light or battery light the only lights I have when the car is in the on position are air bag, oil pressure, e brake. I also am having a weird issue with the brights indicator. Sometimes when I turn the lights on without the car running or running the brights light stays on. Even though the high beams are not on and does not change when the brights are turned on. According to the emails from the wiring guy I should have a check engine light and battery light. I have neither. What usually causes this problem? What is the deal with the brights indicator?

Problem number two: I am having an overheating issue with the car it is fine idling and driving for a few minutes then it starts to heat up really quick. I changed the thermostat tonight with an OEM one and it idled cooler then I drove for a few minutes and it started to get hot. I am running a stock sr Rad with the stock fan and shroud.

in the process of putting in the sr I did a 5 spd swap and I do not have a transmission harness hooked up right now but will shortly. would this have anything to do with any of my issues? I would no think that it would because the SR does not communicate with transmission like a KA does.

The car is bone stock 95 s14 with a red top . I am using the sr sidemount and all piping. I have a Greddy downpipe and stock cat with a apexi catback.

Any help would be great.

Modified by 240addiction at 12:24 AM 2/22/2007
Modified by 240addiction at 12:51 PM 3/2/2007

[DuckyD]

Problem number one: I had the wiring done by Wiring Specialties and have no check engine light or battery light the only lights I have when the car is in the on position are air bag, oil pressure, e brake. I also am having a weird issue with the brights indicator. Sometimes when I turn the lights on without the car running or running the brights light stays on. Even though the high beams are not on and does not change when the brights are turned on. According to the emails from the wiring guy I should have a check engine light and battery light. I have neither. What usually causes this problem? What is the deal with the brights indicator?

Problem number two: I am having an overheating issue with the car it is fine idling and driving for a few minutes then it starts to heat up really quick. I changed the thermostat tonight with an OEM one and it idled cooler then I drove for a few minutes and it started to get hot. I am running a stock sr Rad with the stock fan and shroud.

in the process of putting in the sr I did a 5 spd swap and I do not have a transmission harness hooked up right now but will shortly. would this have anything to do with any of my issues? I would no think that it would because the SR does not communicate with transmission like a KA does.

The car is bone stock 95 s14 with a red top . I am using the sr sidemount and all piping. I have a Greddy downpipe and stock cat with a apexi catback.

Any help would be great.

Modified by 240addiction at 12:24 AM 2/22/2007

I had a similar issue with the headlights acting weird. It ended up that my front left tire was eating through the wiring harness that runs through the driver side's fender.

As far as the transmission harness not being hooked up, I wouldn't worry about that. I have run my car with only the VSS hooked up and it seems to do fine.

[SRPWR]

I had the same over heating problem. Did you take the temp sensor out of the KA? Its right above the TB on both engines, you must swap these also. If im not mistaken, its the single wire one on the right. Also, on the check engine light, mine dosent work either. I think it has to do with the changing of the OBDII to the OBDI. P.S. make sure you bleed the heck out of the cooling system. It will take some time because if it is a new swap, there is a lot of air that needs to be worked out.

[240addiction]

Well the wiring looks good and I did not have the Issue prior to pulling the motor, but I wont rule it out completly.

I did not take it out of the KA but will do that now. The first time it got hot the thermostat was stuck closed and the rad was ice cold so that is why I did the thermostat. This time the whole rad was hot so I know that is working now. I will change the sensor and see if that makes it any better. My 95 was an OBD2 car and I need a check engine light for my emissions test. They are already going to flip out because the OBD2 port won't work.

Anyone know how to fix this issue?

Thanks for the help thus far.

[DuckyD]

It seems that you paid someone to do your wiring so you wouldn't have issues like this.I would be all over their *** trying to get help.

[240addiction]

My thoughts exactly the guy who did it responding to my emails, but not with a ton of help. I did the wiring for my colt and that was easy, but the s13 into an s14 seemed like more work and was worth sending out. Now I am thinking that the 350 it cost me with shipping was a waste. I could have bought an upgraded rad with that. The harness did look nice and appeared to be stock, but I sent it out so I would avoid headaches.....
Modified by 240addiction at 9:07 AM 2/22/2007

[karmakaze]

my thoughts exactly the guy who did it responding to my emails but not with a ton of help. I did the wiring for my colt and that was easy, but the s13 inot an s14 seemed like more work it was worth. Now I am thinking that the 350 it cost me with shipping was a waste. I could have bought an upgraded rad with that.

Yuri did my wiring harness as well and I have nothing but good to say about the guy. He was a great help, especially since I had some wiring color discrepancies in my harness.

Now, your headlights have nothing to do with your engine harness. It would be a long shot to say that his wiring had something to do with that problem.

have you checked to make sure that your bulbs are not burned out or for any loose conectors? that would be my bet.

the redtop ECU has a LED on it for determining codes doesn't it? if it does, is it throwing any codes?

[240addiction]

I am not saying he did a bad job the car starts and runs. He has told me in email that I should have both battery and check engine lights neither of which I have. I did what he said and check the connectors and to no avail. I sent him another email to that effect as to why I dont have them after checking connections.

I understand that and have not blamed him for that was part of my question and I said that they were not like that before so I will go back and recheck to make sure no wires got messed up.

bulbs in the gague cluster or headlight bulbs? the gague cluster bulbs worked when I pulled the motor and I dont think that it is very common for them to go out but I can check.

I have not checked the ECU yet, but I am not worried if it throwing codes or not when you turn the key to the on position the check engine and battery light should come on. Correct?

[Blown240sx]

Im sure there are some Yuri Lovers on here and havnt had an issue out of him but I personally didnt like his wiring nor his help. I have one of his harnesses that has a bypassed wire on the ECCS relay so when I go to make changes to my PFC my car wont save them because of this lazy bypass. I contacted him to get help his response. "the red/black wire is the key" Well no **** that means I get to redo my harness cause his *** was to lazy to do it when he had it open.Not that I can wire it I just figure for $250 this might be included.

Also the comment on the wires in the driver side fender being eaten up.... God it sucks, it f*cked up my injectors wires and took me a day to figure out that was the problem.

How to solve it, repair the wires and pull the fender off and zip tie them up behind the fender then put the fender back on and no rubbing forever.

[240addiction]

Does your car have one of his harnesses? Do you have the check engine light issue as well?

Yuri and I have worked out a plan of attack to get the problem fixed and I will post on the issue when it does get resolved.

[Blown240sx]

I dont have Check Engine light either. I think Im going to work with my roommate and fix the problem. He does wiring for SRs and RBs and his harnesses are perfect without issue.

[240addiction]

We should try tofigure it out. Yuri said I should have one though. is this an issue with obd2 s14's with red tops?

[Blown240sx]

The OB2 shouldnt have anything to do with a check engine light. The ECU sends the check engine light to the cluster which just illuminates a Bulb. My Power FC uses the Check engine light for Boost/Fuel Cut/Knock/02 warnings but it wont light up cause it wasnt wired in.

When my roomamate and I pull mine apart Ill post it up here. I may be doing it soon because we are doing a SR swap here in about a week.

[240addiction]

Ok sounds good let me know if I can be of any assistance.

[240addiction]

I had the same over heating problem. Did you take the temp sensor out of the KA? Its right above the TB on both engines, you must swap these also. If im not mistaken, its the single wire one on the right. Also, on the check engine light, mine dosent work either. I think it has to do with the changing of the OBDII to the OBDI. P.S. make sure you bleed the heck out of the cooling system. It will take some time because if it is a new swap, there is a lot of air that needs to be worked out.

Well some of the problems are fixed. The coolant temp sensor from the KA fixed the not overheating issue and made the gauge right. I also hooked up the alternator correctly and got a battery light. so a couple of my issues are fixed I think that i may have a boost leak now though. The car bucks under partial throttle. I still dont have a check engine light though and will be check to make sure the bulbs are not burnt out in the gauge cluster.

[240addiction]

I have a new issue the miss cleared up and ran better once the O2 was unplugged any suggestions?