OK-So I searched and found similar issues, but nothing exactly like my issue.

This is for a 2018 Nissan Rogue S.

While driving, or even when parked, like earlier today, on my dashboard, my brake light will come on, then shortly afterwords, my vehicle dynamic control warning light comes on...Then after about 1 minute, my AEB warning light and master warning light come on. I have noticed this happens when its cold mostly. I drove all day Wednesday without it on (it was 60F), but yesterday it came back on (it was 30F). I had it at Auto Zone 2 weeks ago and my cousin who works there hooked up the computer to it and it came back with codes U1002, C1105, C1107, C1155, and C1115. It has the recommendation of "replace intelligent power distribution module". This would be covered under warranty, (which I have extended) so I took it back to where I bought it (A Ford dealer) and they checked it out.

They scanned for codes and found the exact same as stated above. they found all wheel speed sensors reading properly, brake fluid level OK, and cleared my codes and did a hard reset. When I went to pick it up-I was not even 1/4 mile out of their lot and they came back on. They (claimed) that I had 'loose shim' and replaced/repaired it. (Cost me 300 for diagnostics and 'repairs) But I still have the light issues. My car really isn't driving any differently, other than when it malfunctions, my AEB disables.

If it makes any difference, I did just have my brakes and rotors replaced about 3 months ago.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be the solution before I spend more money on NOT getting it fixed? I have just over 52000 miles on it. (if a photo of the lights that are on is needed-I can supply one)

Why is a ford dealership doing the repair. Get the warranty work done at Nissan.

casperfun wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 25, 2022 9:01 pm

Why is a ford dealership doing the repair. Get the warranty work done at Nissan.

Car was bought at the Ford dealership and I bought an extended warranty through them.

Wow ,like a podiatrist taking out your appendix

Very possible shoddy brake job 3 months ago , and too bad , but maybe a Nissan Dealer (with good yelps) can find and fix and the Ford Dealer goes along to contribute $$ refund , agreed before hand .......cause you threaten to SUE the SH11TT-BUMS !!!

techchef wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:34 pm

While driving, or even when parked, like earlier today, on my dashboard, my brake light will come on, then shortly afterwords, my vehicle dynamic control warning light comes on...Then after about 1 minute, my AEB warning light and master warning light come on.

Brake fluid shrinks when it gets cold, like just about every substance except water. Your brake fluid is low (and maybe from worn pads, so get them checked). When the fluid is "on the edge" of a low condition, usually about 2/3 below the Max line, cold temperatures will trip the brake light, as will turning and braking while underway as the fluid "sloshes" in the reservoir. Once the ABS throws a low fluid code, it disables the VDC and you also get a slip lamp. The ADAS Controller detects this in turn and disables AEB and some other ADAS features.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 25, 2022 10:39 pm

techchef wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:34 pm

While driving, or even when parked, like earlier today, on my dashboard, my brake light will come on, then shortly afterwords, my vehicle dynamic control warning light comes on...Then after about 1 minute, my AEB warning light and master warning light come on.

Brake fluid shrinks when it gets cold, like just about every substance except water. Your brake fluid is low (and maybe from worn pads, so get them checked). When the fluid is "on the edge" of a low condition, usually about 2/3 below the Max line, cold temperatures will trip the brake light, as will turning and braking while underway as the fluid "sloshes" in the reservoir. Once the ABS throws a low fluid code, it disables the VDC and you also get a slip lamp. The ADAS Controller detects this in turn and disables AEB and some other ADAS features.

I checked that when the problem started, they (claimed) they checked that when I had it in Thursday,and I just checked it now. When you open the cap-you can see the fluid at the top. When I look at it from the side, it looks full.

I wanna add, I mentioned they came on while parked, I drove from my house to Target (about 4 miles) and the lights remained off. I went into target, came out and sat in the parked (started) car for a few minutes while I ordered my food, and they came on.

OK-So, I checked everything suggested so far (that I personally can) and I made sure the brake fluid cap was tight. I took it for a ride (i needed a stop at walmart anyways) and It came back on about 1/4 mile there. But..On the way home i discovered something. If I turn hard to the right, the brake light shuts off momentarily. Not sure if this helps or not.

You never had wonky electrical problems before , like could it have been a "flood" car ? How recent you bought it / how long you had it ?
Other than that , me thinks you should goto Nissan Dealer , since you did choose Ford , which was waste of time ? ya ?
Brake job you mention = very SUSPECT !

Like i said-i BOUGHT the Nissan at the ford dealer and they have my extended warranty. The only reason I went back to it. I have had the car almost a year. The title/history states nothing about it being a flood car. I am planning on taking it into the local Nissan dealer Monday.

Are you sure it's the reservoir turning on the light? The parking brake can turn it on too. Not sure if driving with it on would cause goofy codes, but maybe. Is it an EPB parking brake, or cable?

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 26, 2022 3:42 pm

Are you sure it's the reservoir turning on the light? The parking brake can turn it on too. Not sure if driving with it on would cause goofy codes, but maybe.

When this issue started this was one of the first things I checked. I parked the car, put the parking brake on and took it back off.

Okay, I'm gonna look up all those codes and see if there's a common thread. I'll post back later.

This is looking like a power or ground problem with the ABS controller, and since the ABS has its own dedicated supply and ground that don't pass through the IPDM, I have no idea why they were suggesting that was the problem. But let me lay out the codes first:

U1002: The ABS quit communicating for more than 2 seconds.
C1105: RHR wheel sensor signal. Nissan/Bosch ABS's throw this code for anything wrong with the wheel sensor, and it will throw from even one missing tooth. Low bias voltage to the sensor can also cause it.
C1107: RHF wheel sensor signal, same as above.
C1155: Low fluid.
C1115: Difference in speed between any two wheels of more than 5%. The code tells you nothing about which two wheels, although it might be captured in a Freeze Frame.

Surveying the WD, there's no intervening connector that's common to both righthand sensors and the brake reservoir. So whatever the problem is, it's contained to the ABS Controller and not some external device. Since bad wheel sensors or hardware won't explain a brake reservoir warning, it also won't be a connector pin-fit problem. The ABS has double power and ground inputs and twin fusible links, so bad pin fit on a power contact is also very unlikely. That pretty much leaves either a bad ABS unit or the ABS ground, which is a fat, dedicated wire in a complete PITA spot at the right rear of the engine box. My recollection is, the easiest way to get at it is to pull back the rear of the passenger side wheel well cover. But it's worth checking, it won't be the first time I saw a Nissan ground with the paint not fully broken that corroded itself into high resistance:

Just adding-I have an appt at 1:00 at my local Nissan Dealer on Tuesday (Couldn't get it in Monday). I am just trying to troubleshoot it before I spend more money taking to Nissan.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 26, 2022 4:51 pm

This is looking like a power or ground problem with the ABS controller, and since the ABS has its own dedicated supply and ground that don't pass through the IPDM, I have no idea why they were suggesting that was the problem. But let me lay out the codes first:

U1002: The ABS quit communicating for more than 2 seconds.
C1105: RHR wheel sensor signal. Nissan/Bosch ABS's throw this code for anything wrong with the wheel sensor, and it will throw from even one missing tooth. Low bias voltage to the sensor can also cause it.
C1107: RHF wheel sensor signal, same as above.
C1155: Low fluid.
C1115: Difference in speed between any two wheels of more than 5%. The code tells you nothing about which two wheels, although it might be captured in a Freeze Frame.

Surveying the WD, there's no intervening connector that's common to both righthand sensors and the brake reservoir. So whatever the problem is, it's contained to the ABS Controller and not some external device. Since bad wheel sensors or hardware won't explain a brake reservoir warning, it also won't be a connector pin-fit problem. The ABS has double power and ground inputs and twin fusible links, so bad pin fit on a power contact is also very unlikely. That pretty much leaves either a bad ABS unit or the ABS ground, which is a fat, dedicated wire in a complete PITA spot at the right rear of the engine box. My recollection is, the easiest way to get at it is to pull back the rear of the passenger side wheel well cover. But it's worth checking, it won't be the first time I saw a Nissan ground with the paint not fully broken that corroded itself into high resistance:


Gen2 Rogue ABS Ground.jpg

I will try and look at this. THANKS!

If it's very remote and PITA ,like VStar says , give at least a try to 1 ) "get a wrench on it " 2 ) loosen /tighten /loosen/tighten WHILE jiggling hard the "Ring" connector under the bolt - then lastly SLAM it TIGHT (don't strip it) .
NOW see if any change in symptoms ? Cause that action would likely have improved the ground enough to make SOME difference. And tell you to go "deep" and thoroughly wire-brush , remove ALL nearby paint etc. and maybe 'done with it ' ??
Be nice if you can "check this box" BEFORE the Nissan Dealer , but the Dealer gets my vote to try.

Good Evening Everyone! I just thought I'd tell ya, On Tuesday I had it into my local Nissan dealer, and they think its a faulty brake fluid sensor. They needed to get the part in-so I will update y'all if it works or not.

Just letting y'all know-its fixed (hopefully). They replaced the brake fluid sensor, and the light immediately went off. And I took it for a LONG drive and it did not come back on.

Maybe it had a sunk float. Hard to diagnose those because it has to be in situ, it will seem to work fine when you have it loose. It's very infrequent, but half the postings in here are for weird stuff that's making someone lose their hair. Glad you got it fixed!