Multiple Cylinder Misfire

[ZMARKUS]

I've had this issue for some time as this thread is a part #2 of the previous. I have a stumble that comes and goes that finally threw a code of multiple cylinder misfire. This code comes back about a week after I always clear. This is done hoping a particuliar cylinder shows itself and finally it did. I got a cylinder #1 misfire 2 weeks straight. That was some time back and it now just gives the multiple cylinder misfire along with a new code representing egr malfunction. My question is, should I replace coil on cylinder #1. Its the only cylinder that has showed itself during this entire misfire issue with the car, although it hasn't done it lately. Could the cylinder#1 misfire be a fluke or the culprit finally but briefly showing itself?

[bullittandy]

Yes, you should replace the coil on #1. If yo wanted to be really sure you could move coil #1 to the cylinder next to it and see if the code follows it. However, its almost certainly a coil and you got a code for a specific cylinder and so you're golden.

I'm in the exact same position right now-got the occasional stumble and am waiting for a code to pop up. Strangely, I hadn't felt the stumble in a bit and just filled my tank from dead empty and it turned up almost immediately. I'll need a few more repetitions to draw any conclusions but it seems related.

I'll sell you a good used OEM coil for $40 shipped. [email protected]

[maxnix]

OBD II should throw a cylinder code. Switching the coilpacks is the best way to confirm it is indeed the coilpack and not the plug nor the injector, the latter of which seem to be succumbing to the ethanol plague on the earlier VH45DE.

I will mention that even after I identified my culprit coilpack and replaced with new from Joe (if they fail with use, why risk an early failure again?), I still would infrequently have a hiccup at idle at random times. I recently had to replace the VC covers and after viewing the intake plenum and throttle body, I was amazed at how filthy it was in only 20K+ miles. Everything spanking clean as new and with 20K+ plugs, it runs perfectly smooth at idle and a banshee at WOT.

Good luck.

[jimbyjimb]

Inspect the spark plug to make sure it isn't fouled or cracked. You can check spark with a timing light also, or just take the coil out, put a plug in it, ground it and start the engine and see/hear the spark. I would certainly confirm the coil is bad first before spending on a coil that may be fine. Could be any number of other issues.

[ZMARKUS]

Inspect the spark plug to make sure it isn't fouled or cracked. You can check spark with a timing light also, or just take the coil out, put a plug in it, ground it and start the engine and see/hear the spark. I would certainly confirm the coil is bad first before spending on a coil that may be fine. Could be any number of other issues.

Funny that you mention the plugs because when I experienced this way in its earliest stage last year I simply installed new OEM plugs. I just knew this would resolve it but the stumble increased after that . At that time there was not even a CEL but know I'm working with more info.

[ZMARKUS]

Yes, you should replace the coil on #1. If yo wanted to be really sure you could move coil #1 to the cylinder next to it and see if the code follows it. However, its almost certainly a coil and you got a code for a specific cylinder and so you're golden.

I'm in the exact same position right now-got the occasional stumble and am waiting for a code to pop up. Strangely, I hadn't felt the stumble in a bit and just filled my tank from dead empty and it turned up almost immediately. I'll need a few more repetitions to draw any conclusions but it seems related.

I'll sell you a good used OEM coil for $40 shipped. [email protected]

I've experienced that gill up issue as well. As the tank draws to an empty sometimes the stumble decreases to the point where you think it may just be gone. Fill up and BAM, it's back . Appreciate the used coil offer but I'll feel better with new to remove any doubt when attempting fix.

[jimbyjimb]

Did you get the chance to inspect the plug/coil yet?

[ZMARKUS]

Did you get the chance to inspect the plug/coil yet?

Actually, I wouldn't personally know which cylinder is #1 but the cylinder #1 misfire returned yesterday. I feel that is where I should start. Now it's just a matter of finding the best price on a OEM coil. I'm assuming no one here supports ordering a coil from like an auto zone or napa because I wonder do I really have to go OEM. Gonna check out Ebay first.

[ZMARKUS]

Did you get the chance to inspect the plug/coil yet?

My bad about the late reply. Sometimes I get online and my computer forces me to go booty sites. I've been meaning to get that fixed .

[maxnix]

Actually, I wouldn't personally know which cylinder is #1.

Then you need to spend some quality time with the FSM.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/

[miata007]

Few months ago, I got all 8 coils replaced. Got it from Joe for $70ea which is a bargain compare to Kragen that was more than $100 ea. Replaced all spark plugs as well and the stumbling disappear completely for couple of months already.

If you have a Y33 with stumbling problem and over 100,000mi, just bite the bullet and replace all of them (coils). These coils are normal wear and tear items that needed to be replaced anyway after 100k. Did it myself to compensate the cost of parts. Wasn't as bad as I intially thought but does required plenty of patients.

Let me know if you need hints/tips you decided to tackle this job. I've took plenty of pics. Also, may wan to do the VC gasket while you are at it.

007

[thedka]

Few months ago, I got all 8 coils replaced. Got it from Joe for $70ea which is a bargain compare to Kragen that was more than $100 ea. Replaced all spark plugs as well and the stumbling disappear completely for couple of months already.

If you have a Y33 with stumbling problem and over 100,000mi, just bite the bullet and replace all of them (coils). These coils are normal wear and tear items that needed to be replaced anyway after 100k. Did it myself to compensate the cost of parts. Wasn't as bad as I intially thought but does required plenty of patients.

Let me know if you need hints/tips you decided to tackle this job. I've took plenty of pics. Also, may wan to do the VC gasket while you are at it.

007

what do you think a typical shop would charge for this job?

[maxnix]

what do you think a typical shop would charge for this job?

What you should be asking is now much damage can a "typical shop" do to a Q45.

120K on mine, only replaced one coilpack, but did perform a lot of other top end plenum maintenance. Purrrrs.

[ZMARKUS]

Well I decided to take bullittandy on his offer concerning the used coil and it worked wonders . Down the road I will replace all coils with new because they're due and future failures are inevitable. It's amazing how one bad coil can handicap such a beastly engine. Prior to the fix the car would hesitate and buck if the gas pedal was punched. After the installation of the coil( 25 bucks by a shop down the street) I entered traffic and it flew like a bat out of hell as it used to do .

[maxnix]

Down the road I will replace all coils with new because they're due and future failures are inevitable.

While the second statement is tru, it does not rationalize the first.

[ZMARKUS]

While the second statement is tru, it does not rationalize the first.

I see where ya coming from. Not feeling the used coil idea and/or replacing one coil. With a dormaint knock sensor code that was always present I wanted to make sure the symptom culprit was cylinder#1.This problem grew from suttle to very noticeable without giving up the culprit for a long time. So I approached it as cost effective as possible if error was looming.
Modified by totaljett at 10:20 PM 9/7/2008